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Posted

This is what I will be fabricating in the new year.

I wanted a tank that I could get 400 miles out of, keep all the seating, be able to secure using leather straps bolted to the floor and tub bulkhead and could be refilled from the off-side rear sliding window.

The baffles need some more thinking about and I haven't put any detail on the way I will route the fuel line. Any comments welcomed, dimensions available on request.

gallery_3629_327_30525.jpg

gallery_3629_327_39824.jpg

Posted
This is what I will be fabricating in the new year.

I wanted a tank that I could get 400 miles out of, keep all the seating, be able to secure using leather straps bolted to the floor and tub bulkhead and could be refilled from the off-side reat sliding window.

The baffles need some more thinking about and I haven't put any detail on the way I will route the fuel line. Any comments welcomed, dimensions available on request.

gallery_3629_327_30525.jpg

gallery_3629_327_39824.jpg

Why not make the vert part of the tank slightly thicker to save the big bit poking into the tub?

Posted

Do you keep anything beheind your seats? You could easily remove a square of your bulkhead and put the cube that's currently in the loadspace in front of the bulkhead.

Alternatively, how about a bit pointing downwards, through the floor?

Even better, could a 110 tank be adapted to fit under the floor?

Posted
Why not make the vert part of the tank slightly thicker to save the big bit poking into the tub?

The way that is drawn would allow me to use the space between the seat and the bulkhead, any thicker than that and I would loose the seats.

Do you keep anything beheind your seats? You could easily remove a square of your bulkhead and put the cube that's currently in the loadspace in front of the bulkhead.

Alternatively, how about a bit pointing downwards, through the floor?

Even better, could a 110 tank be adapted to fit under the floor?

I do use the space behind the seats unforunately; I can put kit behind them and it won't roll about. Plus, I want to be able to remove the whole lot with minimum fuss if I come to sell it.

Have a good look under the floor, there are loads of spaces to put small tanks.

Hmm, I like this idea (and Si hinted this way, too I think). Out of sight and out of mind. Not loosing load space or seating. It does mean that I will have to make several smaller tanks to be able to acheive the same range (I think), but it looks like it could be worth it.

The spaces that spring to mind are in the rear arches forward and above the wheels, and near the rear exhaust box.

Has anyone done anything like this?

Posted
Isn't a fuel tank inside the passenger/driver area a wee bit illegal?

Les.

Call it a load space then?

I have seen hot rods with tanks where the back seats used to be and LRs with rear tanks. To be honest with you, I don't know the legalities of it; I will investigate before I start the conversion.

Posted

Plan B - Make a box to hold your battery under the floor and put a second standard under seat fuel tank under the passenger seat, cut a filler out of an old tub and you won't even have to go through the window to fill it.

Mo

Posted

I had the 22litre start up plastic tank when I had the Diesel veg kit fitted that equates to 70odd litres enough for 300-350 miles.

one of WV holdings/Alisports aux tanks would easily see 400miles plus achievable without such a large tank in the loadspace IMHO

Posted

Yes, you would have to relocate the battery - perhaps into the rear load space, which would only require some minor fabrication to locate is securely and some longer cables. From what I can remember the tanks are a uniform shape, so I don't think there would be much of a problem putting one in place (look at the one you have fitted already and you should be able to get a good idea) Custom-made fuel tanks are expensive, so I would imagine it would be cheaper and easier to fit twin standard tanks.

Les.

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