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my clutch biting point climbed up the pedal today then started slipping (revving out in 4th and going nowhere) , i had to pull the pedal up with my foot to stop it (the biting point is now in the pedals free play).

now i have no visible leaks or lack of pressure , my fluid was quite low but I'm under the impression low fluid would have the opposite effect.

any ideas guys? are my master/slave cylinders screwed or would this also have the opposite effect , i.e clutch not engaging when pressing in the pedal?

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If the fork has started to punch through, then it will shortly go right through and the pedal will become rock solid.

If you have no fluid loss, then an easy way to check the clutch master is ok is to get someone to press and release the pedal while you watch the fluid level in the reservoir - it'll go down a small amount when the pedal is pressed and then rise again when it's released.

Les.

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Operating fork is inside the bell housing, pivots on a ball fixed to the rear of the housing and presses the thrust bearing forwards to disengage the clutch. The operating rod connects the clutch slave to the narrow end of the clutch fork.

Les.

cheers les , ive just had a butchers at the old parts book and it seems the rod is connected via a plastic clip , do you thinbk id get away with a new clip or will yhe fork need replacing?

just trying to figure out if i need to remove the gearbox or not.

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If the rod came off the fork (due to the clip breaking), then it'll either jam against the bell housing which would make the pedal go solid, or fall inside the bellhousing in which case when you next pressed the pedal the guts of the slave will come out and follow the rod. All your fluid would then drain into the bellhousing. I doubt very much that your problem will the rod - you could remove the slave cylinder - very carefully and see if the rod is still in place. If you have a digital camera you may be able to get at the right angle to be able to take a picture of the pivot point and then see if it has started to punch through. Bit of a hit or miss type thing though as you can't really see with your own eyes, so have to guess.

Another check to make is to clamp the clutch flexi pipe with mole grips (carefully) and then try to press the pedal. If the master cylinder is working ok the pedal will be solid.

The piston inside the slave cylinder can also stick part way inside the bore which would affect the pedal height. If you are going to take it off to check the rod, then get someone to press the clutch pedal while you press against the piston - it should move about an inch.

Les.

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sorry nobber,

sounds just like what has happened to me <_<but you are about a gear change or 2 away from it compleatly going, i,ve just got in from having another good go tonight and a really big pat on the back to les for this post it has worked a dream :D

follow the above link this is by far the easiest and most practical soloution to replacing the very cheap (£15 re-inforced off les) release fork that seems to be at fault.......

dougstar

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cheers guys.

I'm picking up a new gear box Friday but wasn't planing on changing it until Christmas holidays , looks like it might be sooner than planned. i will check the master and slave first but if it pans out for the worst do you have any more reinforced forks for sale Les?

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