simon red90 Posted November 7, 2007 Share Posted November 7, 2007 so then, to those of you who have bought one and seen both, aside the obvious diameter difference what are the differences between the gigglepin upgrade drum and the standard warn jobbie? cos for what its worth, i'm just gonna get some 2.5" tube and weld it in all nice and straight? someone please tell me i'm missing something? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petergg Posted November 7, 2007 Share Posted November 7, 2007 so then, to those of you who have bought one and seen both, aside the obvious diameter difference what are the differences between the gigglepin upgrade drum and the standard warn jobbie?cos for what its worth, i'm just gonna get some 2.5" tube and weld it in all nice and straight? someone please tell me i'm missing something? Whilst you are doing it put stronger side's on, I have 8mm plate but 6mm would do mine are 3" longer and the drum dia is 2.5" also have a sealed roller bearing on end. Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will_warne Posted November 7, 2007 Share Posted November 7, 2007 I'm picking up the new drum to my rear 8074 at the weekend (12" x 2") . You could go tube although they have been known to bend so billet is a better option. A sealed roller bearing in the endplate is a good move - this is one of the reasons I'm using an 8274 endplate. There's nothing off the shelf that fits so you've either got to make up a collar to go into the endplate (large diameter and very thin) or weld the surface and remachine it. My end plate's had the latter done although the metal for the endplate's very poor so its a pig of a job. Thanks again to the very nice man who did it for me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonk Posted November 8, 2007 Share Posted November 8, 2007 Thanks again to the very nice man who did it for me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petergg Posted November 8, 2007 Share Posted November 8, 2007 Mine is from billet and bearing No FAG 6012, need to turn a small amount from end plate bearing OD 110mm and also from end of drum 60mm bearing is 20mm wide and sealed. Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollythelw Posted November 8, 2007 Share Posted November 8, 2007 I bet welding that pooh was fun Tonk I think having nosed at just how nasty that stuff is I'd be tempted to go billet like Peter - seems easier Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D9OSV Posted November 8, 2007 Share Posted November 8, 2007 Don't want to get dragged into this........ However i must advise againist the use of billet (Solid bar) As we have had now three drums sent to us by home built by different people using billet that have bent, not a lot, but they have bent. One was standard length the others extended. As i am sure someone will point out that that it depends on material etc...... But it is just a useful bit of info Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Abel Posted November 8, 2007 Share Posted November 8, 2007 Don't want to get dragged into this........However i must advise againist the use of billet (Solid bar) As we have had now three drums sent to us by different people using billet that have bent, not a lot, but they have bent one was standard length the others extended. As i am sure someone will point out that that it depends on material etc...... But it is just a useful bit of info Jim If you use the right tube there will be no problems, just dont go and use some cheap mild steel! I cant see the point in using billet, its just extra weight in the wrong place ive got a gigglepin drum, ive not had any problems, the rope will snap way before the drum bends! The 2.5" diameter drum makes a huge diffrence, with one layer on the drum the winch will stall at around 11000lbs (guestimate, using a bit of maths!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Posted November 8, 2007 Share Posted November 8, 2007 I'm picking up the new drum to my rear 8074 at the weekend (12" x 2") . You could go tube although they have been known to bend so billet is a better option.A sealed roller bearing in the endplate is a good move - this is one of the reasons I'm using an 8274 endplate. There's nothing off the shelf that fits so you've either got to make up a collar to go into the endplate (large diameter and very thin) or weld the surface and remachine it. My end plate's had the latter done although the metal for the endplate's very poor so its a pig of a job. Thanks again to the very nice man who did it for me! You could always make your own end plate? Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonk Posted November 8, 2007 Share Posted November 8, 2007 I bet welding that pooh was fun Tonk its not the best of material, it probably didn't help that it was so ingrained with dirt etc. personally i think its a nicer way of doing it rather thamn a very thin collar, but obviously u need to be able to weld ali and then machine it out afterwards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollythelw Posted November 8, 2007 Share Posted November 8, 2007 cool - whats the torque output of the motors Chris? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Abel Posted November 8, 2007 Share Posted November 8, 2007 cool - whats the torque output of the motors Chris? Ive just done a few calculations, asuming that warns HP output are rated around 5600 rpm like the bow motors. The 4.6hp motor at 5600rpm is producing 52.8 inch/lb's of torque. The 6hp XP warn at 5600 rpm is producing 70ft inch/lbs of torque. Thats only based on Warns HP figure's thought!! So if you multipy 70 inch/lb torque by the warns 8274 gear ratio of 134:1 that gives 9380 inch/lb torque at the drum with a drum speed of 41rpm! Obviously ive missed something or have Warn been a little ambitious with there motor HP ratings? Has anyone got a graph with torque, power and speed of a 12v warn winch motor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simon red90 Posted November 9, 2007 Author Share Posted November 9, 2007 Ive just done a few calculations, asuming that warns HP output are rated around 5600 rpm like the bow motors.The 4.6hp motor at 5600rpm is producing 52.8 inch/lb's of torque. The 6hp XP warn at 5600 rpm is producing 70ft inch/lbs of torque. Thats only based on Warns HP figure's thought!! So if you multipy 70 inch/lb torque by the warns 8274 gear ratio of 134:1 that gives 9380 inch/lb torque at the drum with a drum speed of 41rpm!................... blah blah blah, yeah yeah smart arse!! call me stupid, but i figure, if it can pull me out of a world of ****, it works. if not, it doesnt! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollythelw Posted November 9, 2007 Share Posted November 9, 2007 Has anyone got a graph with torque, power and speed of a 12v warn winch motor? seems to be some kind of secret - surely someone would have run a motor on a rig to get an accurate current draw, torque, RPM vs load etc etc etc during their R&D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Wightman Posted November 9, 2007 Share Posted November 9, 2007 seems to be some kind of secret - surely someone would have run a motor on a rig to get an accurate current draw, torque, RPM vs load etc etc etc during their R&D Fridge, your turn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lara Posted November 9, 2007 Share Posted November 9, 2007 We did it recently but talking to some motor manufacturers before we chat with the winch manufacturers and then publish the results for all eyes to see. Very interesting both good and bad. Lara. P.S. There is an old adage that says, "don't copy something unless you know Why it is better, not just thinking blindly that it is" And if you knew why, you probably would not need to ask on a forum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollythelw Posted November 9, 2007 Share Posted November 9, 2007 Fridge, your turn. eh? ahh - forgot, cant ask genuine questions...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will_warne Posted November 9, 2007 Share Posted November 9, 2007 If you use the right tube there will be no problems, just dont go and use some cheap mild steel! I cant see the point in using billet, its just extra weight in the wrong place The same applies to billet regarding materials Yes, there's a little extra weight but its easier for an 8074 as it allows you to make a 1 peice drum centre with a pair of endplates. Also have at think about the wall thickness of tube you'll need for a longer narower drum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Wightman Posted November 9, 2007 Share Posted November 9, 2007 eh?ahh - forgot, cant ask genuine questions...... Jez Ask any question you like, just don't do the "I need authenticated figures with a wax seal and signed in blood" line. If the manufacturers can't give true figures who can? ( without paying a testing house a small fortune). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted November 9, 2007 Share Posted November 9, 2007 Do you know the weight of your solid drum? In my mind solid is just overkill, you could at least make an effort to smoke a hole through the middle. With regards to power figures: My suggestion is not to let the truth in the way of a good winch discussion, otherwise we will cut the discussion short and we wont have anything to talk about. Damn, I had to many beers! PTO Mine is from billet and bearing No FAG 6012, need to turn a small amount from end plate bearing OD 110mm and also from end of drum 60mm bearing is 20mm wide and sealed.Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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