Les Henson Posted January 16, 2008 Share Posted January 16, 2008 The crankshaft damper has 4x8mm threaded holes in it and these are what you use to draw it off. The holes are 75mm between centres, and you need a thick bar to take the pressure. The drill bit locks the injector pump shaft in the timing position - the inj pump sprocket can be rotated a small amount by slackening the 3 x 10mm head bolts around the central nut (don't undo that). This is where the drill bit should go (I am using a timing setting pn in this picture) I used tippex just to make the instructions in the thread more visible - it's not necessary. The cam sprocket doen't get locked - you put it on it's timing mark and then don't move it between removing the old belt and fitting the new - although it might move a tooth or so, but you can put it back on it's mark by using a 21mm (I think) spanner/socket. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HotRod Posted January 16, 2008 Share Posted January 16, 2008 Thanks Les, very helpful So just to be clear, when the TDC position is reached (ie crank key upright, cam mark in line) the fuel pump pulley SHOULD be lined up so you can slot the drill bit straight in to hold that cog? Presumably there should be no need to undo the 3 bolts and move the cog?? (unless it doesn't line up with the 10mm hole? - but presumably you wouldn't want to risk altering the timing if you're a Tdi novice like me!? Sorry to labour the point cheers Simon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s2hotdog Posted January 16, 2008 Share Posted January 16, 2008 Simon Thats why I'm going to put mine in a garage for the cambelt change! BTW saw else where you will be going to the HBRO trial a week Sunday - see you there I expect ................ in my green 90 truck cab with H14 winch on the front - introduce your self if you see me! Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HotRod Posted January 16, 2008 Share Posted January 16, 2008 Steve Cambelt-permitting, I'll look out for you! Me in blue 90 truck cab with winch on front... I'm sure its well within our abilities if you arm yourself with all info! Simon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted January 16, 2008 Share Posted January 16, 2008 It's quite usual for the timing marks to be in the correct position, but the pin will not go in the inj pump hole - as the belt stretches - this is where the slack usually is. Crankshaft ketway in line with the arrow on the rear of the timing housing, cam sprocket also on it's timing mark and then slacken and remove the tensioner and belt. Move the inj pump pulley until the pin fits in the hole, slacken the three bolts, fit the new belt, and tension it. Re-tighten the three inj pump pulley bolts, remove the pin and turn the engine 2 revolutions clockwise back to the cam/crank timing marks. Re-check the pin goes in the hole and adjust again if necessary. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HotRod Posted January 16, 2008 Share Posted January 16, 2008 It's quite usual for the timing marks to be in the correct position, but the pin will not go in the inj pump hole - as the belt stretches - this is where the slack usually is. Crankshaft ketway in line with the arrow on the rear of the timing housing, cam sprocket also on it's timing mark and then slacken and remove the tensioner and belt. Move the inj pump pulley until the pin fits in the hole, slacken the three bolts, fit the new belt, and tension it. Re-tighten the three inj pump pulley bolts, remove the pin and turn the engine 2 revolutions clockwise back to the cam/crank timing marks. Re-check the pin goes in the hole and adjust again if necessary.Les. Ok thanks Les -so you effectively re-set the pump timing back to pre-stretch 'factory' settings Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted January 16, 2008 Share Posted January 16, 2008 Yes. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 16, 2008 Share Posted January 16, 2008 You shouldn't have posted that Ralph, you know what's going to happen now, don't you ?Mo It wouldn't dare Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eddyoz Posted January 22, 2008 Share Posted January 22, 2008 ID Simon There is a very good article on changing the 300 TDI cambelt on the www.difflock.com site.I found to actually fit the belt it was easier to line everything up,wedge the belt with a piece of soft wood between the case and camshaft pulley.With the three bolts just loose on the pump pulley, was able to rotate it clockwise to pick up the belt...saves having three hands! Geoff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted January 22, 2008 Share Posted January 22, 2008 4 belts in 2 years after oil seal leaks/FIP rebuild and total engine rebuild after piston melted still at at least the bolts don't get time to seize Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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