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Should I?


disco_al

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At the moment i have a trusty 200tdi 3dr disco, runs nicely, body a bit ropey (boot floor/rear x member need looking at) sweet gearbox and interior, i have been offered a 3.5 efi 5 door running on lpg (been properly done) that's got plenty less rust on it than mine, (x-member/boot look solid still, inner wings need a couple of plates, and the exhaust front pipe needs sorting as its blowing.) in exchange for my Sierra XR4x4 and £200 on top, it's on a H plate so it's a year older than mine.

I have come to like the agricultural qualities of the 200 tdi lump, especially its low down grunt when towing, although after having a go in the v8 last night, i'm very tempted by that loverly growl :wub: that they have........

Now i know that everyone on here has their favourite engine, but can i have some constructive comments for and against going down this route, i am soooo tempted......but confused :wacko::wacko:

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the TDi would be sold (not enough room for 2 disco's) and the v8 used daily, weekly mileage is around the 200 mark (including commuting) so it should work out cheaper to run (especially as gas is only 50p/litre) as it has the twin torpedo tanks. it is also a fair bit cheaper on the insurance for some strange reason.

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the TDi would be sold (not enough room for 2 disco's) and the v8 used daily, weekly mileage is around the 200 mark (including commuting) so it should work out cheaper to run (especially as gas is only 50p/litre) as it has the twin torpedo tanks. it is also a fair bit cheaper on the insurance for some strange reason.

Probably cheaper on insurance 'cos people don't nick 'em for the engines.

If you have an LPG station handy then it's not such a daft idea, if you don't it will hit you in the pocket pretty quick.

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Maybe…………..

It really depends upon the mileage and condition of the 3.5 lump ………..

Where as a stin’kin diesel will go on for many agricultural unstressed moon miles, belching out carcinogenic particulates and giving everybody asthma within a 5 mile radius …………. V8’s are somewhat fussy about the way they are maintained and this has a direct bearing on its longevity……

How many miles ? …………. Open the oil filler and have a good look inside with a maglite ………. Ideally it should be a golden colour …….. if its black and looks sludgy then walk away unless you are prepared for a rebuild (not a difficult job)……..

Normally I would look at oil colour as well, but if this has been run on LPG for some while and has had fresh oil in that time then the oil will (should) look clean.

What’s the oil pressure like ? take it for a good run (at least 15 miles) and ensure that the oil pressure light does not flicker on idle …….. make sure the idle is correct and not been increased slightly to hide poor oil pressure………..

If it is a manual, stick you head under the bellhousing and check to see if the rear crank seal is leaking ……… also check the sump is oil tight……..

On a cold start up and also warm at idle, check for lifter noise (tappet) ……. There should be none……………..

Open the rad header tank and have a good sniff ………… it should smell like coolant and not like an old exhaust pipe……….

HTH

:)

Ian

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cheers for that, going to have a look at it in the daylight first.

tickover is nice and even, and sounds pretty quiet, mileage is 121k, so just run in i would think. took it for a run last night, and the oil light never even flickered once.

there is a bit of oil leaking from the r/c gaskets i think (could be the valley gasket though, difficult to say in the dark)

i will have a good look in the daylight before deciding once and for all, so will keep everyone posted. anything else to watch out for? rust is the obvious one, although at first glance itlooks quite solid, even the rear arches :)

box is nice and tight as well, doesn't crunch into 2nd, no undue whines, difflock works fine too, as i think one of the cv's has gone, or possibly half shaft in the front axle (in unlocked mode, front prop spins when in gear at tickover, same symptoms mine had when i bought it)

only other thing i can remember is that the front section of exhaust is blowing slightly, so it does sound a bit rough.

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tickover is nice and even, and sounds pretty quiet, mileage is 121k, so just run in i would think. took it for a run last night, and the oil light never even flickered once.

there is a bit of oil leaking from the r/c gaskets i think (could be the valley gasket though, difficult to say in the dark)

At that mileage check whether the head gaskets have been done - it's probably just coming up for its replacements. If the oil is leaking from the valley gasket this often indicates a leak from one or more cylinders into the valley. It's a bit of a PITA job due to all the clutter on top of the engine, but not a horrendous one, and worthwhile if you're getting an otherwise good truck for a good price.

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At 121K, unless its been looked after like a baby with oil changes every 3K, then I would expect that engine to be near the end of its useful life.....

Regardless of regular oil changes........ if the cam is original then it will be worn out, together with a badly stretched timing chain, worn rocker shaft and rockers.

The oil pump gears will also be very worn, as will the big end and main bearing shells...........

The bores on the V8 are quite long lived and do wear that badly unless the engine has been revved hard.........

If there is oil coming from the valley gasket, then suspect either a head gasket has blown or there is blow by on the piston causing positive crank case pressure.

I have known these engine do 160k+ ...........but I have never known one to to 200K............ usally if everything is original then the timing chain / plastic sprockets give up at this sort of mileage..........

The later 4.6 engines and rebuilt engines will probably do very high mileages due to the better oils we have now and a somewhat better build quality........

caveat emptor................. having said that a rebuild (DIY) will cost between £500 - £800...............more if you want a few more ponies. Also bear in mind that these engines are 10 a penny now so a running (I didn't say good) second hand unit should be cheap (£100 - £250)

:)

Ian

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