Probs with new P38a!

[Reynolds_p1]

Hi there,

I'm new to Range Rover ownership, had my fair share of frustrating cars in the past and looks like the rangie is off to a good start!

Coming back from picking it up..(yes it did start that early) after about 30miles (which it drove faultlessly) I had a crunching sound on the dual carriageway, at first i though on of the exhausts had fallen off and caught on the wheel or something, after finding somewhere safe to stop i found both exhausts still in place.

Now when i move it its making a 'cluncking' noise which seems to be coming from the rear. I suspect its the diff or driveshaft... has anyone had a similar experience? it was as if it crunched and just broke.

Mine is a 1996 on an N registration (no more info to hand at the minute) but i understand there are two types of diff - 2 or 4 pin (correct me if i'm wrong) is it possible to work out which one i'll need form this info or do i need chassis numbers?

If the diff has broke in this way, is it likely that the driveshafts will have been damaged and is severely detrimental to drive it - i.e. will it do any more damage? (i have avoided it so far but will try and limp it to the garage tomorrow).

Does anyone know where i might be able to get hold of a recon diff or good used diff? and possibly driveshafts too? I'm in Derbyshire if that helps..

I also have another few probs with it.. (although not too bothered about these as i bought it expecting to have to do a bit of work foir the price)

1) the air con doesn't seem to let me adjust the fan speed manually, auto can be turned off but it doesn't make any difference when turning the fan speed knob. Would a new climate control unit (where the display is) cure this do you think?

2) the steering adjustment won't lock back into place. I have taken the cowling off and locked it back into place for now but if i adjust it again it won't lock back - not a major issue just wondered if anyone else had this problem and managed to cure it.

3) Does anyone know where can i get the check straps for the lower tailgate fairly cheaply (looked on fleabay and the cheapest there is about £40 for the pair) is it possible to find them cheaper than that?

Apologies for the essay-like post, i would be extremely greatful of any help/suggestions though as i'm a bit stuck!!

Many thanks,

Adam

[q-rover]

Have a search around on RangeRovers.net for your

problems. Ashcroft would be a good start for a new diff if that is the problem.

A few pointers for replacing the diff here

[steve_d]

Before you go condemning the diff you should check the universal joints in both ends of the prop shaft. Easy to do, just slide underneath and grab the shaft. If you can move it up and down or side to side or twist the shaft relative to the diff then your crunch was the UJ breaking up. Not a difficult or expensive job.

Steve

[q-rover]

Make sure you buy proper quality UJ's not ****part, cheapstuff.

[Reynolds_p1]

Make sure you buy proper quality UJ's not ****part, cheapstuff.

Ta, Any idea where i could get the proper quality UJ's (GKN??) from? they dont seem to be on Dingocroft anymore..

Thanks,

Adam

[David Sparkes]

I'm surprised that Hardy Spicer UJs aren't available from Dingocroft, as they normally carry 'quality' stuff. It isn't my local store though.

Paddock Spares have both sorts of UJ's, one of them being Hardy Spicer. Just make sure you specify them when you order. Buying from a motor factors local to you will save on postage, of course.

I have blown a rear diff. It you remove the rear propshaft you can drive around in front wheel drive. I think I did about 150 miles. Beware the handbrake won't hold on a hill as the VC continually slips, unless it's broken into a seized state.

If it is a diff failure you won't have damaged the half shafts, although they will have to come out to change the diff. When they do you will need to make up a rag on a stick the clean the tubes of any metal shards that may be there.

Fitting new axle seals will be good advice.

It doesn't matter whether the original diff is 2 pinion or 4 pinion. Ashcroft transmissions supply 4 pinion ones that are a universal fit.

Tailgate straps - get a part number and Google that, and ask at whoever is local to you. Don't ignore the Dealer. If you know anywhere that deals with wire rope, ask if they will swage new ends on for you.

HTH

[Reynolds_p1]

Just spoke to my mechanic who says the prob is in the rear axle somewhere and not the UJ's so probably gonna be the diff!

Any ideas where to get a decent s/hand or recon one from?

Cheers,

Adam

[bishbosh]

Ashcroft.

Ist stop and last stop.

Or perhaps Crown diffs but no personal experience.

[Reg]

Hi Adam,

Ive just had my S reg P38 fitted with a new RPI Cosworth Engine, Koni shocks and various bits to bring it back from an Ebay dead engine buy. Usual story previous owner had local garage fix his gaskets and pressurised block to test for leaks, he paid about £600 for the job which failed almost immediately. Cracked block behind liner was the cause, as it is in almost every case. RPI fitted a brand new lump complete with rechipped ECU, with about 500 miles on the clock Im getting 19 mpg on a run with a 4.6 L.

I have got the same prob as you with the rise & fall steering adjustment, it just flops up and down making a ratcheting sound.

Did the same as you took all the bits off the cowling and prodded around in the works to find out how it was put together, no result without further stripping down. The pin locking the steering drops back into place but does not engage the lock to prevent it moving. Can anybody advise how to fix this, or would a second hand top steering assembly be a better route. ++

[fats_40]

i have rear half shafts for p38 .if you intrested you can contact me on 07886904887 after 10.00 am.