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Swapping out a 1.8 K lump - how to?


FridgeFreezer

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With my wallet coughing up blood, the new engine is ordered and will be with me next week. All I need to do then is drop it in...

So, exactly how much of a kerfuffle is it? Anything I need to be aware of? Any bits I need to order?

Oh yes - and are there any tips for running-in the K lumps? A particular oil to use for example?

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is it a brand new recon unit?

if so it may have some oil in it already, depends on the supplier. usually it's just a case of changing it for whatever the current spec is (5w/40 fully synthetic is recommended at the moment).

you will probably need manifold gaskets (some engine suppliers will send a gasket kit with the engine), ancilliaries will need swapping (alt/starter/pas brackets as well) so those will need removing from the current engine.

when the old unit goes back make sure it's drained of oil and coolant, any orifice plugs (oo-er) are put into inlet/exhaust ports etc.....and that it isn't in any way dismantled (they don't like old units returned as kits)

so, before the new one arrives, remove all ancilliaries & brackets etc, drain the oil and coolant, and remove it from the truck.

it will be worth ordering new flywheel bolts & spigot bearing and possibly consider a new clutch as well (may as well change it while it's in pieces, and fit a new clutch master/slave unit)

modern engines are much more tolerant than older engines, so best bet is to just take it steady for the first 500 miles (say limit to 3k revs), change the oil, then allow another 500 miles and do the same, but allow to say 3.5k revs. It should be fine to let yourself have a few high revving moments, as it will help to bed things in.

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Brand new recon and not exchange so don't need to worry about that bit.

Gaskets are arriving with it, clutch was very recently new (under 1k I reckon) so that's not an issue. Not sure if it'll have a flywheel or what, will look up the bolts and spigot bearing, thanks.

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Just take the engine out on its own, very simple, need to remove the bottom pulley to help squeeze it out the gap but its simple enough. Leave IRD and gearbox where they are, propped up axle stands.

There is a grub screw (allen head) on the top of the oil filter housing, make sure that that is in before you build it up, pita after you've built it up.

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Local (very good) mechanic has quoted me under £200 to remove the old engine & fit the new one, probably take him about a day to do it. Frankly it's not worth getting cold & oily for that kinda money since at least £50 of that will be fluids and stuff anyway.

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Local (very good) mechanic has quoted me under £200 to remove the old engine & fit the new one, probably take him about a day to do it. Frankly it's not worth getting cold & oily for that kinda money since at least £50 of that will be fluids and stuff anyway.

That sounds good enough. And cost of a second hand engine or reconditioned is? (nice to know incase mine needs one in the future)

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