FridgeFreezer Posted February 21, 2008 Share Posted February 21, 2008 With my wallet coughing up blood, the new engine is ordered and will be with me next week. All I need to do then is drop it in... So, exactly how much of a kerfuffle is it? Anything I need to be aware of? Any bits I need to order? Oh yes - and are there any tips for running-in the K lumps? A particular oil to use for example? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disco_al Posted February 21, 2008 Share Posted February 21, 2008 is it a brand new recon unit? if so it may have some oil in it already, depends on the supplier. usually it's just a case of changing it for whatever the current spec is (5w/40 fully synthetic is recommended at the moment). you will probably need manifold gaskets (some engine suppliers will send a gasket kit with the engine), ancilliaries will need swapping (alt/starter/pas brackets as well) so those will need removing from the current engine. when the old unit goes back make sure it's drained of oil and coolant, any orifice plugs (oo-er) are put into inlet/exhaust ports etc.....and that it isn't in any way dismantled (they don't like old units returned as kits) so, before the new one arrives, remove all ancilliaries & brackets etc, drain the oil and coolant, and remove it from the truck. it will be worth ordering new flywheel bolts & spigot bearing and possibly consider a new clutch as well (may as well change it while it's in pieces, and fit a new clutch master/slave unit) modern engines are much more tolerant than older engines, so best bet is to just take it steady for the first 500 miles (say limit to 3k revs), change the oil, then allow another 500 miles and do the same, but allow to say 3.5k revs. It should be fine to let yourself have a few high revving moments, as it will help to bed things in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted February 21, 2008 Author Share Posted February 21, 2008 Brand new recon and not exchange so don't need to worry about that bit. Gaskets are arriving with it, clutch was very recently new (under 1k I reckon) so that's not an issue. Not sure if it'll have a flywheel or what, will look up the bolts and spigot bearing, thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disco_al Posted February 21, 2008 Share Posted February 21, 2008 be unusual if it has a flywheel on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badger_1 Posted February 21, 2008 Share Posted February 21, 2008 How are these engines usually replaced. does the engine, gear box and transfer box all go in and out together in one lump and is it dropped in from the top or up from the bottom? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marc1187 Posted February 21, 2008 Share Posted February 21, 2008 Just take the engine out on its own, very simple, need to remove the bottom pulley to help squeeze it out the gap but its simple enough. Leave IRD and gearbox where they are, propped up axle stands. There is a grub screw (allen head) on the top of the oil filter housing, make sure that that is in before you build it up, pita after you've built it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marc1187 Posted February 21, 2008 Share Posted February 21, 2008 Take engine out the top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jules Posted February 21, 2008 Share Posted February 21, 2008 Take engine out the top. Don't forget to open the bonnet first Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted February 22, 2008 Author Share Posted February 22, 2008 Local (very good) mechanic has quoted me under £200 to remove the old engine & fit the new one, probably take him about a day to do it. Frankly it's not worth getting cold & oily for that kinda money since at least £50 of that will be fluids and stuff anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badger_1 Posted February 22, 2008 Share Posted February 22, 2008 Local (very good) mechanic has quoted me under £200 to remove the old engine & fit the new one, probably take him about a day to do it. Frankly it's not worth getting cold & oily for that kinda money since at least £50 of that will be fluids and stuff anyway. That sounds good enough. And cost of a second hand engine or reconditioned is? (nice to know incase mine needs one in the future) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted February 22, 2008 Author Share Posted February 22, 2008 I don't think the price I'm getting the engine for is likely to be repeated for all comers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Shurvinton Posted February 22, 2008 Share Posted February 22, 2008 I have contacts in the cheese engine world Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted February 22, 2008 Author Share Posted February 22, 2008 I just hope this one's made of a harder grade of cheese than the OE spec Dairylea Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Shurvinton Posted February 22, 2008 Share Posted February 22, 2008 The cheese is as normal, its the crackers holding it together that are much higher grade Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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