SteveRK Posted March 10, 2008 Share Posted March 10, 2008 Few pictures of the repair/replacement so far: Piece of 2mm thick mild steel clamped to the underside of the floor ready for welding. This will then be welded to the crossmember (two small holes to be enlarged) This is the off-side: Plug welded, ground down and then 'Tetrasealed': Repeated on the other side and now with the crossmember welded in and 'Tetrasealed' all over - Lovely stuff to use Next up will be the front crossmember replacement that hopefully will follow the same method, then the arse end member Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveRK Posted March 30, 2008 Author Share Posted March 30, 2008 Front crossmembers and rearmost crossmember fitted at last. Need to make up and weld a section to take the seal that fits on the rear crossmember (seals the lower tailgate) Few more very small holes on the offside wheel arch that need sorting with some welding Next stages include the rear floor section considering 2mm thick sheet steel that will be sufficiently strong to not need much under support when i carry any heavy loads (beer etc.) Then out wings that need some fettling to sort out rust etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted March 30, 2008 Share Posted March 30, 2008 Looking Good Don't count the hours spent on it FFS Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveRK Posted March 31, 2008 Author Share Posted March 31, 2008 Cheers Nige Yes - What was meant to be a 'quick and dirty' weld up and go job is starting to develop into a thorough refurb! That welding mask of mine is still total carp by the way!! - i'm looking out for an auto dimming mask on a sensible budget - Seen this one on Northern Tools: http://www.northerntooluk.com/products.asp?partno=139771E Not heard of this make but its in my price range - anyone got a view on auto dimming masks - how much/make etc. ? I'm a hobby welder so dont need top quality. cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orgasmic Farmer Posted March 31, 2008 Share Posted March 31, 2008 I paid £69+vat for one from my local farm supplies. Looked very similar to the one in your link but without the graphics. It has been the single biggest improvement to my welding so far! Buy one. As a hobby/occasional welder it will do the job I am sure. Just remember to leave them in the sun and not locked away in a cupboard somewhere Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_d Posted March 31, 2008 Share Posted March 31, 2008 ............... Just remember to leave them in the sun and not locked away in a cupboard somewhere Why? Not heard that one before. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DEANO3528 Posted April 1, 2008 Share Posted April 1, 2008 That looks identical to the ones they sell at peterboro LR Fest every year for £30 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted April 1, 2008 Share Posted April 1, 2008 I have that SIF mask, supplied by 'Weldequip', works very well IMHO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rustyrangie Posted April 1, 2008 Share Posted April 1, 2008 oops! Thanks to last photo I see I've put my mudflaps on wrong way round! Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveRK Posted April 1, 2008 Author Share Posted April 1, 2008 You must have the solar powered version 'Orgasmic Farmer' - hence leaving it in the sun. Yes - I have tried the auto dimming mask - courtesy of Hybrid From Hell when he was giving me some very usefull tips on Mig welding and having gone back to my flip up window mask I realise just how much they assist in steady controlled welding. Mudflaps - I initially had mine trial fitted the other way round and they were sticking out too far - even without the outer wing fitted so reversed them as currently fitted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveRK Posted May 3, 2008 Author Share Posted May 3, 2008 Story do far. Piece of 2mm thick mild steel sheet will be the new floor. It overlaps at the sides and front end. Welded various strip and U channel to provide rigidity on the underside: The red dotted lines correspond to where the floor will sit on the two front crossmembers Bit of tin worm needed cutting out of the O/S rear corner wing. Now filled, rubbed down, filled, rubbed down, filled, bloddy rubbed down etc ready for undercoat.: Bough some 'Brush Enamel' from Turners Paints the other week so will see how well it matches and what sort of finish it gives. I'm hoping it works well as spray tin paint is microns thin and always is a pain to blend in but with a brush i can do all those other rust scabs around the sides etc. Floor is now tetrasealed' on the underside and will be undergoing final fitting tomorrow whetehr it likes it or not, GOD its taking forever this job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveRK Posted May 4, 2008 Author Share Posted May 4, 2008 Gooed up and fitted at long last: 6mm stainless bolts & nuts around the perimeter and the floor sandwiched with sealer - time for a cuppa' Tea and a smoke Clean up of the floor, apply some body sealer and paint next Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted May 4, 2008 Share Posted May 4, 2008 Nice job, looks very tidy! Was wondering though, are you likely to get drumming without the ribs in it? Being 2mm thick there is some strength, just not sure how much Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveRK Posted May 5, 2008 Author Share Posted May 5, 2008 Valid point, I hope not. With the U channel bracing and at the front with the rear seat belt chassis supports i'm hoping it will be sufficiently rigid to prevent this. I get enough ear bashing in my old transit as it is! At the moment now that its all bolted down its pretty dam solid, but not yet road tested of course. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted May 5, 2008 Share Posted May 5, 2008 If you do get it, there's some spray on gunky stuff you can use to stop the vibes, it also acts as a sound proofing. Give it a go and hope it's OK of course Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveRK Posted May 10, 2008 Author Share Posted May 10, 2008 floor in and painted up with'synthetic coach enamel' brush applied. I was told by the supplier that 1 litre is enough to paint 3 Range Rovers and he's not wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted May 10, 2008 Share Posted May 10, 2008 Looking really nice! Good work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted May 11, 2008 Share Posted May 11, 2008 Nice to see the penetration marks on the welds along the channel. Looks a nice neat job, whats next then ? Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveRK Posted May 11, 2008 Author Share Posted May 11, 2008 Full penetration is a 'must-do' on all occasions as i say Although its only a hobby welder I have invested in a Size Y BOC Argoshield Light bottle, wheeled trolley and an adapter pipe to fit the small pipe that comes with the welder so i have all the gas i need now. Now that the stern is sorted and will outlive the rest of the vehicle i have noticed some rot on the o/s bottom of the drivers door pillar (A post?) where it meets the sill, then front passenger foot well to cut out a small amount of rot and patch locally, And now its only running on 6 cylinders so i cant even drive the bloody thing till' thats sorted. The A post may involve some upside down welding which i have yet to master as it tends to do the obvious and blob onto the tip - as they say. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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