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finally ordered my lift kit


python

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hi all, well i have finally bit the bullet and ordered my new springs and shock from mm4x4. anyone else used them? its procomp es9000 shock and heavy duty springs with a 2" lift. will i need anything else before i start ripping the truck apart to fit them? im a bit nervous as its the biggest job im having to do on the truck so far. :lol: any advice will be great. jon..

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Not sure if anyone else has this problem with procomp but of the 3 sets I have fitted I have had to cut a couple of mm off the lower pins on the front shocker to stop it contacting the axle casing. Its much easier to do this on the bench than after you have fitted everything!!

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Python,

In addition to the brake lines and the rear arms I will add possibly castor corrected hockey sticks and a double cardan front prop. although you may not need them if it isn't a daily driver or the steering doesn't get to vague.

Pete

Orgasmic Farmer,

I also had to trim my front procomps as they hit the axle tube.

Pete

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guys, cheers for all the advice, will change things as i need to i think, im using the truck on road mostly for now with a green lane once a month or so. im getting the hocky sticks and cranked rear arms when money allows me. will look into the brake lines and bump stops though. can someone enlighten me about trimming the pins for the shocks though, this is my first time doing this :blink:

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Basically what I found was that with the washers fitted correctly and using the correct rubbers when I tightened the lower nut on the front shocks the end of the pin that the nut goes on was hard up against the axle tube (I discovered this because I couldn't get my ring spanner off the end of the shock with it done up. To fix this I trimmed the lower pin down by about 5mm (effectively I cut the smal flats on the end of the pin off) this allowed enough clearance between the pin and axle tube. I still had to use an open ended spanner to do the nut up but the pin did not hit the axle. I would suggest running the nut up the thread with the shock off the vehicle to clean out any paint in the threads and then applying copper slip to the threads before tightening it down on the vehicle to make it easier to fully tighten it fully up as the bit you cut off is there for useing a spanner to hold the shock still to allow tightening the nut up which will mean that you have to hold the shock still by hand through the spring.

HTH

Pete.

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guess what im doing tomorrow on my day off? :lol:

Swearing at rusted on nuts?

You haven't mentioned the length of the new dampers (whether they are extended or not), so I'm guessing it didn't state there length when you got bought them.

When you have an origional damper off, extendit an place it next to one of the new dampers to check theire length. If they are the same length then using the origional bump stops and brake lines won't be a problem.

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The M&M kit will have +2" dampers

The do more than just one kit and they certainly sell a kit with standard length dampers.

Standard length dampers are OK with HD lift springs, that was what I was using for some time. It was only when I got a different RRC and got new suspension for it that I got longer dampers. Come to think of it that got run on standard dampers for a while as well. You just have to be more selective about you line thorugh rougher sections.

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well its fitted now. :P happy with the front except the axle seems to be at a funny angle. or is that just me? the back is not as high as the front is either but its definetly an improvment. thanks for all the advice and the comments guys. :)

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