FridgeFreezer Posted March 22, 2008 Share Posted March 22, 2008 Like this (the spade terminal bit): We are needing something to do that job for mounting the fuel pumps and possibly a sender, anyone got suggestions? It needs to be fuel proof but outside that I'm open to suggestions. Don't really want to be epoxying wires into a hole but it may come to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted March 22, 2008 Share Posted March 22, 2008 I have seen such connectors on washing machines IIRC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Hiatt Posted March 22, 2008 Share Posted March 22, 2008 FF ATL in Milton Keynes sell them. They are 6mm studs with a plastic outer liner, fairly basic but FIA approved. ATL can't see them but I saw them when I visited Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted March 28, 2008 Author Share Posted March 28, 2008 Update: ATL (through Demon Tweeks) want £157 for a connector :o So - answers on a postcard before we get the epoxy out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve 90 Posted March 28, 2008 Share Posted March 28, 2008 I take it this is for the fuel pump on mouse! I did a similar thing once and made my own, Turned up a top hat piece and a washer with hole through the middle out of hard nylon (think it was a bit of mums old chopping board actually) or anything thats an insulator. Two top hats, one from either side would do the same thing. Then put an O ring grove in the one half to seal against the tank. Put the top hats through a hole in tank, a piece of threaded bar with a couple of nuts either side then attach your wires with eyelets. Its simple but works. Hope I explained that O.K.! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomG Posted March 28, 2008 Share Posted March 28, 2008 Those plastic bits can be removed from an old fuel sender with some careful coaxing with pliers, drill a hole hole or two and araldited them back in and it's been fine since. (Needed to do this on mine to have the fuel level connections fitted to the same cap as the EFI fuel pump) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve 90 Posted March 28, 2008 Share Posted March 28, 2008 Scribbled it on a piece of paper so you can see what im on about! The stud through the middle wants to be very small (BA or 3mm at most) then you can make it to go through a 6mm hole. The harder the plastic/nylon the better as it all tightens up much nicer. They are a bit fiddly on a big lathe, If you have a small model makers lathe its simple. Once you have it all in place and tightened up just drop your eyelets and a second nut on either side and your sorted! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Superpants Posted March 28, 2008 Share Posted March 28, 2008 I have something like steve has drawn up with an 8mm stud (designed for high currents!) in the garage if that helps? (same as the power feed through the bulkhead on the disco). It hasn't got an o-ring, I'm sure a suitable rubber washer or o-ring could be made attached. Might be a bit too big but can probably send you a couple if you want? Off to the pub shortly so will have to dig them out later if you are interested...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TSD Posted March 28, 2008 Share Posted March 28, 2008 Anixter Components, under cable management > liquid tight fittings. (oh, and they are good with free samples as well) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Posted March 28, 2008 Share Posted March 28, 2008 John, I can knock up something like what steve has drawn with an M4 stud if you like? Superpants' power studs are probably a bit on the large side for what you are after. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve 90 Posted March 28, 2008 Share Posted March 28, 2008 One last point, I squeezed a bit of good quality RTV type sealant up through the middle of the top hat before putting the threaded bit through but If I needed to do it again I would probably tap thread in the center of the top hat and just use some thread sealant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted March 29, 2008 Author Share Posted March 29, 2008 Cheers all - I think Jez has a lead, he's found the chap who makes the connectors for ATL, minus the "Formula one spec" markup followed by the Demon Theives markup I think it works out much more reasonably. I guess we'll see what turns up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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