harle Posted March 31, 2008 Share Posted March 31, 2008 Greetings wise ones! I have bought a 1/2 ton engine stand, and it doesn't really come with any instructions just a diagram of how to assemble it. Thats assembled now. My question is regarding the attachment of the engine to the stand. Looking at the picture below, do i just use the bolts from the bellhousing, or will i need some different ones. If they're different can anyone remember the size of them? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted April 1, 2008 Share Posted April 1, 2008 I always thought that you bolted the engine stand to the rear face of the block - otherwise you wouldn't be able to strip the engine completely. The mounting plate of the stand is variable, so you can line-up with holes on the back of the block. The bolts off your engine should be long enough to secure it on the stand, but if not you will have to match-up the threads (M10 coarse usually), with longer bolts. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Posted April 1, 2008 Share Posted April 1, 2008 As it happens, I have a 200 on a stand outside, so I nipped out and took some pictures... sorry, it's a bit huge, and you will have to ignore the general mess... The stand is bolted onto the bellhousing mounts using M10 bolts - I had to remove studs to get them into sensible positions. Also be careful, as the holes are blind, and you don't want to bottom out. With this particular stand, 75mm bolts would have been perfect, but I used 80mm ones and a spacer... hth Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted April 1, 2008 Share Posted April 1, 2008 I always thought an engine stand fitted in such a way that you can completely strip the engine to the bare block? Don't think I'll bother buying one now Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Posted April 1, 2008 Share Posted April 1, 2008 I suspect with slightly better positioning of the mounting plate, you could get the flywheel out, but that is the only thing you can't get to with it mounted like this... Admittedly I had to remove the clutch release plate, and the friction plate before I could mount it too... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MECCANO Posted April 1, 2008 Share Posted April 1, 2008 I fitted mine staight to the block after removing the flywheel, and clutch housing. Not a very clear picture, there is plenty of room to remove the crank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harle Posted April 1, 2008 Author Share Posted April 1, 2008 Thanks for that info, will have to note those sizes down. But for now ive bought an engine crane and i dont really need one atm lol. I was planning to change the clutch using one, but looks like i will just be hanging it off the crane to do that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike4444244 Posted April 2, 2008 Share Posted April 2, 2008 They do make life a lot easier, being able to flip the block over whenever you need to, You can normally get the flywheel off as the 'legs' have a built in stand-off, and the bottom ones are wide enough to get the flywheel out between them if you see what I mean? the only disadvantage with mine is that when your torqueing things up it tends to just follow you round the workshop as it doesnt have locking castors Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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