Mark Posted April 4, 2008 Share Posted April 4, 2008 My 300 tdi squeeks like a very squeeky thing thats competeing in a squeekyness contest... therefore I think I probably need to replace the bearings in the fan bleft tensiotner and the aircon belt tensioner - sparying them with wd40 dosn't reduce the squeeking at all Have seent eh kits on eBlag for the bearings alone, rather than the complete tensioner unit, so they must be a reasonable readily available bearing size - does anyone know the size and/or the referene number these bearings? I want to make sure I get a decent bearing rather than a chocolate one is all Cheers Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cipx2 Posted April 4, 2008 Share Posted April 4, 2008 What Les suggested in his article, http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=3904 , is the best 6203 money can buy. It has a double lip seal against water ingress developed in 2003-2004 or so. P.S. Here's how the seal looks like: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Posted April 4, 2008 Author Share Posted April 4, 2008 Cool, thanks chaps... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cipx2 Posted April 5, 2008 Share Posted April 5, 2008 Don't forget the A/C idler. Better to replace all 3 bearings at once, it's a 5 min job each after you have the tools ready. Don't know how much a bearing costs in UK (I payed a little over 2 quid for one) but it sure worths replacing them all at the same time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Posted April 5, 2008 Author Share Posted April 5, 2008 Cool, I hadn't really twigged that there was an idler and a tensioner... whilst the afore mentioned bearing seems to be readily available on eBlag (albeit without the '' on the end of the code) I shall be dropping into my favorite bearing supplier on Monday lunch time and pick up 2 3 new ones Cheers Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimAttrill Posted April 5, 2008 Share Posted April 5, 2008 Some 300td's have one of the aircon bearings - the top adjustable one - not a 6203 but a 6301. Like some of the adjusters are cast iron and some are alloy. There is no reason to it, some are just like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yostumpy Posted April 5, 2008 Share Posted April 5, 2008 Just a tip . take off the bearing and pulley, put your finger in the hole and spin the bearing whilst listening . If its a mild TWISTLE as it spins, put some oil in a pan, poss ep90, heat up on the hob NOT BOILING, and place the bearing in the oil for a short while, occasionally taking it out to rotate it. the hot thin oil should soak into the bearings, drain thoroughly, wipe clean and refit. BUT BEWARE!!!!!!!!!!! the liberal application of wd40 on mine with new belt, caused the pulley to PICK UP bits of belt as the belt and pulley inevitably got covered with the stuff. Anyway thoroughly cleaned pulley , cleaned belt with degreaser and washed it repeatedly, dried it off, liberal coating of talc on both sides of belt and all puleys, refit belt and BINGO no more sqauking, sqeaking or anything else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon White Posted April 6, 2008 Share Posted April 6, 2008 6203-2rsh - sheilded bearings. I buy em from RS they're only about £3 or £4 each Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cipx2 Posted April 6, 2008 Share Posted April 6, 2008 They are not "sheilded", they are sealed bearings, which is a BIG difference. You cannot use shielded bearings since they are not dust and water tight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Posted April 7, 2008 Author Share Posted April 7, 2008 OK, from what I can tell, from various sources, the suffix for shielded bearings is Z (or ZZ or 2Z for a shield on both sides). For sealed bearings, the suffix is RS or 2RS to show it is sealed. Someone quoted '2RSH' as the suffix - anyone know what the H means? The RS website does not show it, and Brammers (my local bearing place) didn't have anything on the shelf, so I am none the wiser... Cheers Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cipx2 Posted April 7, 2008 Share Posted April 7, 2008 It's a SKF designation. Don't know what RS or Brammers are (although I can find) but if they dont stock SKF bearings they won't be able to help. Find a store/bearing supplier that stocks SKF bearings. What you need is a SKF bearing (not an equivalent), Explorer Series, SKF part# 6203-2RSH. It looks like this: Could be made in some other country, it doesn't matter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimAttrill Posted April 7, 2008 Share Posted April 7, 2008 I have come across 2RSR = two rubber sealing rings. But not RSH, though I presume it means the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Posted April 7, 2008 Author Share Posted April 7, 2008 I came across one that was 2RSJ earlier, but I don't think it meant it had an RSJ on each side... Have since ordered some bearings from Simply Bearings who stocked it and will ship it first class. Cheers Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cipx2 Posted April 7, 2008 Share Posted April 7, 2008 Yes, Jim, they're about the same thing. You can use those as well, no problems. The only difference is that the SKF 2RSH have that improved double lip seal and also the grease is different, both more resistant to heat and moisture, so they might last longer, at least in theory. I've fitted them 2 years and about 12,000 mi ago, not enough for a meaningful feedback yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrettS Posted April 8, 2008 Share Posted April 8, 2008 Great info here and timely too. I thought I might have trouble finding this bearing in Canada, thinking it might not see a lot of use over here, but I need not have worried. My local bearing supplier had boxes of them, and cheap to boot. They told me it is a very common bearing. I hope changing it is just as easy. Brett Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cipx2 Posted April 8, 2008 Share Posted April 8, 2008 I think SKF has more than 200 distributors in Canada: http://www.skf.com/portal/skf_ca/home/dist...384〈=en They have representatives in 135 countries all over the world so these bearings should be easy to find since 6203 is a very popular bearing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimAttrill Posted August 23, 2008 Share Posted August 23, 2008 It's also the front bearing the Lucas/Marelli A127 65A alternator as fitted to Defenders. That's if you can get the bearing out without destroying the casing The rear needle roller bearing is made by INA and very difficult to source. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roguevogue Posted August 24, 2008 Share Posted August 24, 2008 I replaced the bearing in mine, stopped it squeaking for about 10 mins. I replaced the whole thing in the end from Island-4x4 which has stopped it completely. The reason they squeak is that the mechanism wears and the pulley no longer presents in line with the belt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yostumpy Posted August 24, 2008 Share Posted August 24, 2008 As in a previous post, I'd done wat I did. The other day I noticed a chuffing/popping, which became worse when slipping the clutch with the brake on. HEAD GASKET those of a knowledgable disposition will cry. BUT it was coming from the front of the engine near the afore said mentioned pulley, and it was also thumping a bit. So I looked whilst it was running, wondering whether it was the head gasket or exhaust mainfold gasket, when I noticed the pulley jumping up and down in a rather erratic fashion. So I stopped the engine with the intention of taking off the belt to see if the noise was still there, and got my 15mm ring spanner on the pulley bolt to lift it up, and release the belt. Bugga! wouldn't move So I got some rag and rapped it round said spanner so as not to cause a painful indentation on my hand. Well it was stiffer than a VERY stiff thing. so I sprayed wd40 on the gasketed joint between the two moveable surfaces, covering the belt well so as not to contaminate it, and worked the pulley up and down whilst spraying.became very smooth. I then tried the engine and , BINGO, no more thumping, chuffing of popping. So with a long nosed oil can I kept carefully laying oil on to this slip joint as the engine was running, and as the pulley worked upand down the ol worked itself in. this mornig it was purfect, no squeek no popping, chuffing, even when slipping the clutch as before. It really has made the old 300 SOOOO much quieter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newclear Posted August 25, 2008 Share Posted August 25, 2008 I replaced the bearing in mine, stopped it squeaking for about 10 mins. I replaced the whole thing in the end from Island-4x4 which has stopped it completely.The reason they squeak is that the mechanism wears and the pulley no longer presents in line with the belt. Glaggs from NCGL had this with his Disco 300tdi, I then had the same squeal from my Disco 300tdi (in the 90). He and I both fixed the squeal for the total expenditure of 1p..... Take the 1p piece, remove the Fan belt, remove the entire tensioner enough to slip the 1p down behind the Tensioner between it and the Engine at roughly the 9 O'Clock position (left hand side at the same level as the Tensioner securing Bolt). Bit fiddly to make the 1p stay in place as you tighten everything back up, but it is possible. Job done. Mine has now been silent for around 4 months now, Glaggs' has been silent for around 5000 miles. Now you may indeed be looking at this post in fits of laughter, but it has to be worth a shot? 1p Piece or £4 Bearing? As the attached quote suggests the mechanism wears and causes the Pulley to no longer line up with the belt so it squeals. The 1p realignes the Pulley with the Belt. If I'm honest I replaced the bearing too at first, stopped nothing, still squealed enough to upset dogs on the pavement. 1p Stopped it instantly, didn't require any running in or time to seat itself. If it doesn't fix the problem, you may have crushed a 1p piece.... oh no All hail Glaggs! *bows* (initially came from "karlo" @ Mud-Club.... but I sort of know/have met Glaggs... I've never met karlo ) Cheers Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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