Scotian Posted May 3, 2008 Author Share Posted May 3, 2008 I'm confused. isnt the input shaft the one that goes to the clutch? thats where the power is "inputed" from the engine to the gear box.. Please set me straight on this so I dont go talking carp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted May 4, 2008 Share Posted May 4, 2008 The input Les is referring to is out the back of main gearbox 5th gear housing into the top of the transfer box , as Les said due to poor lube on early LT230's the splines wear on both shaft and gear, but generally show symptoms as a clunk on taking up drive forward or back....when the wear becomes enough the splines strip out and drive is lost . the Judder you are looking for is oil or oil mist on drive plate or a severely worn clutch. .....there is another possibility and that is the trans. brake is stuck on and partially locked, but if you are running it any distance it would overheat and be quite obvious. hth Cheers Steveb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotian Posted May 4, 2008 Author Share Posted May 4, 2008 Its just got worse!! I havent done the cleaning yet but I double checked the hand break and there is no binding atall. It freely rotates by hand. But on my way to the shops just now, every time I took up drive in first or reverse from a stand still there was a load crack/knock/slap (it isnt a dull knock, its somthing not very heavy that is making a noise). The sound comes from right under my bum (No I didnt let one rip and blame it ont he landrover) and to the rear. In a few days I will have the UJs so I can replace the front prop shaft. When I get it I'm going to do what western said ages ago and test drive it with FWD only. And see if anything is different. I will however still do the cleaning (tomorrow most likely) of the clutch plate/flywheel. Do these new noises point to anything different ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotian Posted May 6, 2008 Author Share Posted May 6, 2008 I've finally had chance to spray up the drain hole with a hot pressure washer. I didnt drill a hole in the top becuase I really couldnt face taking the whole of my interior out just for such a small job. I will add a hole and a pipe for future flushes when I get round to changing the gear box. Anyway.. I sprayed with hot water up the hole for about a minute while my girlfriend clutched and de-clutched for me. As I was leaving the car wash place the water was still pouting out of the bell housing and at first there was no difference. Then within a few gear changes, when I got to the next junction where I had to stop, pulling away in 1st was possible without violent juddering I drove around for about 45 minutes and somtimes I could detect a little judder but nothing like there was before. When I got home the big test was the little shunt manouver Ihave to do to get into my parking place, there was a little judder but compared to the violent judder that made me not want to use the car till it was fixed it was nothing So I think it is safe to say we found the problem. There must be an oil mist (I say mist becuase even though there is a tiny drip of oil from the bell housing, there isnt even enough to drip on the road even when sat idle for an hour, and nothing dripping over night) and this cleaning is sorting it for now. I will change the crank rear seal when I change the gear box regardless of if it seems to be the source of the oil, if its comming from the gear box then it doesnt matter and this should be the end of my problem Thanks for the fualt finding advice guys.. Now does anyone have a defender gera box and a disco transfer box for sale? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotian Posted May 6, 2008 Author Share Posted May 6, 2008 I've just been to the shops and the judder is almost back to how it was It seems the cleaning did help but didnt last for long.. I might go for the break cleaner next time.. but will still spray hot water up there each time I wash it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveRK Posted May 6, 2008 Share Posted May 6, 2008 Its possible all the water did was make the clutch slip a bit more than normal thereby alleviating the judder? I'd try spraying oil onto the shaft/release bearing instead in case it is dry and sticking. Assuming gearbox and engine mounts are all o.k of course. I'm also assuming that the engine is not cutting out on any cylinders during ull-away. A drastic test is to really punish the clutch to burn off any contaminent, second gear lots of revs, slip clutch gradually. Only to be done two or three times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotian Posted May 6, 2008 Author Share Posted May 6, 2008 The engine is sweet as a nut. I dont think it was the water just making it slip becuase it had more than enough time to dry out before it started happening again. I just think it needs more washing weather that be from hot water or somekind of solvent like break cleaner.. Can you explain more about your idea with the release bearing please? How are you imagining it could be causing this and how do you suggest getting oil onto it without contaminating the cluch plate even more? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted May 6, 2008 Share Posted May 6, 2008 I would stop beating myself up over this and take the gearbox off - you will then know for sure where the problem lies. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happyoldgit Posted May 7, 2008 Share Posted May 7, 2008 I would stop beating myself up over this and take the gearbox off - you will then know for sure where the problem lies.Les. Exactly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotian Posted May 7, 2008 Author Share Posted May 7, 2008 There is no way I am taking the gear box off here with no workshop facilities atall. It would be done in a city car park with no hoist or anything. Also not taking all the transmission tunnel out (and all that it entails, which is alot in my 90) just to get access to remove the gear box just for a look see when I dont have anything to replace or repair seals, clutch etc. I just have to keep it alive till I get back to the UK (or if I find a gearbox out here which is almost impossible). Unfortunatly I dont have the privilage that you have and I'm used to of being in the uk, having access to tools (other than what I carry on board) and help from anyone who can speak english and knows their way around a landrover. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted May 7, 2008 Share Posted May 7, 2008 ....I have heard of people puffing scouring powder into the bell housing to keep it going if the clutch has oil on it , its all a bit last resort though. I'd be inclined to slip it in 2nd pulling away a few times at revs. Time to book some serious fixing time Cheers Steveb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happyoldgit Posted May 7, 2008 Share Posted May 7, 2008 Well I've changed LR clutches in all sorts of places including carparks, at the side of the road, in fields etc using just basic tools and improvisation. Sorry but you could have the bits shipped out from any number of sources at anytime and effect a lasting solution. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveRK Posted May 7, 2008 Share Posted May 7, 2008 If the shaft that the release bearing and carrier slides on is rusty it might cause jerky clutch action. If the front face of the release bearing is badly pitted it could also cause problems. If the release 'bearing' itself is worn out it might cause problems etc. oil from a long tube fed into the shaft and release bearing might be worth trying. Of course testing the clutch pedal for smoothness with the engine off would highlight any stickyness on the shaft Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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