tedsmart Posted May 2, 2008 Share Posted May 2, 2008 Hi All, I intend to change the A frame ball joint ( if when I take it off to look at it its worst for wear, as the rubber boot is all split) and while off renew the A frame bushes! Theres a tech archive for the bushes but not for the ball joint, it seems farely easy, but having never renewed one before has anyone got any advise? I'm preping my beaut for a trip to Fraser Island in July so want it all in good shape! (if thats possible) I also have to service the Cam belt and I'm looking at renewing the seals in the Slave & Master clutch cylinders, as theres black stuff at the fluid level, in the resevoir! I did this on a 109 ex military soft top that I had 12 od years ago, but I'm abit rusty now, so any advice would be greatly received! Cheers Ted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotian Posted May 2, 2008 Share Posted May 2, 2008 I've got black stuff in the top of my clutch filler. I wasnt sure how it got there. Is this a symtom leading to the need to change the seals? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted May 2, 2008 Share Posted May 2, 2008 The black stuff in the master cylinder is particles of rubber from the seals wearing away. I've never replaced the seals in either the clutch master or slave - they are cheap enough to buy new, even genuine items. When you bleede the clutch, make sure the front of the vehicle is higher than the back. If the vehicle is 'nose down' it's possible for air to stay at the back of the slave and you'll never bleed it out. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silvio Posted May 2, 2008 Share Posted May 2, 2008 Les' rule (don't bother with seal replacement, just change the master and slave) is 100% right, although there might be exceptions: I had my master cylinder weeping after just 15.000 km (less than 10.000 miles), and opening it I noticed that the cylinder inner surface and piston were OK, so for the first time I decided to use the seal kit, and it did the job. Bleeding can be a long job, but Itried a method which worked wonderfully: I bought a large syringe (80cc), filled it with brake fluid and connected it to the bleed nipple on the slave by means of a short rubber hose; then I slackened the nipple a couple of turns and injected the fluid. Closed the nipple, refilled the syringe and once again injected the fluid: when the fluid emerged in the master reservoir, the pedal was hard! Topped up level, done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freeagent Posted May 2, 2008 Share Posted May 2, 2008 if they are both old, do master and slave at the same time, if you don't, which ever one you leave will imediately start leaking.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tedsmart Posted May 3, 2008 Author Share Posted May 3, 2008 if they are both old, do master and slave at the same time, if you don't, which ever one you leave will imediately start leaking.. Cheers for that! The first job is to renew the Aframe bushes and ball joint if it is knackered or replace the rubber boot if not! anyone taken the ball joint off? I would like to know what suprises are installed for me!!! Cheers Ted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddy Posted May 3, 2008 Share Posted May 3, 2008 Use a press to remove and refit the ball joint, it takes forever with a sledgehammer, when inserting the new ball joint they are splined so make sure you line it up properly before refitting it. Will. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted May 3, 2008 Share Posted May 3, 2008 You can remove the old one by belting it out, but the new one should be pressed in (bashing it with a hammer is not a good idea) Use the two M8 bolts to keep it in line and press it in either in a vice or bung the local garage a tenner to press it in the housing for you. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tedsmart Posted May 3, 2008 Author Share Posted May 3, 2008 You can remove the old one by belting it out, but the new one should be pressed in (bashing it with a hammer is not a good idea) Use the two M8 bolts to keep it in line and press it in either in a vice or bung the local garage a tenner to press it in the housing for you.Les. Cheers for that I thought they looked hard to get out! So if I'haven't got a press, a vice will do? if I got longer bolts and tried to draw it in would that work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted May 3, 2008 Share Posted May 3, 2008 No - it'll just bend the tabs over. The two bolts are just there as a precautionary measure - in case the ball joint comes adrift. They do not really take any kind of load once the joint is pressed in. It sometimes takes an awful lot of pressure to get one in, so you need a beefy vice to do it. You can make it easier by heating the housing up and putting the new ball joint in the freezer for an hour. The housing will expad with the heat (making the hole bigger), and the ball joint will contract - therefore making it easier to fit them together. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tedsmart Posted May 3, 2008 Author Share Posted May 3, 2008 No - it'll just bend the tabs over. The two bolts are just there as a precautionary measure - in case the ball joint comes adrift. They do not really take any kind of load once the joint is pressed in. It sometimes takes an awful lot of pressure to get one in, so you need a beefy vice to do it. You can make it easier by heating the housing up and putting the new ball joint in the freezer for an hour. The housing will expad with the heat (making the hole bigger), and the ball joint will contract - therefore making it easier to fit them together.Les. Theres more to this than meets the eye????????????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean f Posted May 4, 2008 Share Posted May 4, 2008 As said the ball joint takes a lot of force to get the old one out and a new one in. Best bet is to take the joint of then take it to al local garage or machine shop and get them to swap the ball join over for you, saves a lot of hard work!. Getting the tapper out from the axle casing is often a bit of a job as well. The best way I have found is to remove the split pin and nut (30mm normally) then belt the joint with the biggest hammer you have to shock it out, last time I used a 9lb sledge hammer, a 1 lb lump hammer just didn't do it. Ball joint splitters aren't normally large enough or up to the job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tedsmart Posted May 5, 2008 Author Share Posted May 5, 2008 As said the ball joint takes a lot of force to get the old one out and a new one in.Best bet is to take the joint of then take it to al local garage or machine shop and get them to swap the ball join over for you, saves a lot of hard work!. Getting the tapper out from the axle casing is often a bit of a job as well. The best way I have found is to remove the split pin and nut (30mm normally) then belt the joint with the biggest hammer you have to shock it out, last time I used a 9lb sledge hammer, a 1 lb lump hammer just didn't do it. Ball joint splitters aren't normally large enough or up to the job. Just bought a 10 ton press to do the bushes & the ball joint, has anyone done this job and if so what size press did you use? Doing the job tomorrow, so here goes. Cheers Ted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tedsmart Posted May 6, 2008 Author Share Posted May 6, 2008 Just bought a 10 ton press to do the bushes & the ball joint, has anyone done this job and if so what size press did you use?Doing the job tomorrow, so here goes. Cheers Ted Thanks to all that put thier pennys worth in! I have done the job now so alls well, it seems to have stop the knock when I take up the drive with the clutch! So if anyones wondering what that clunk/knock is it could well be the A frame ball joints worn! It wasn't that bad a job but having ramps or jacking it up would allow more room, it was very tight, and undoing the upper link bolt to the chassie was very tight and getting the bugger back in needed some ingenuity with a bottle jack at an angle! The advise to cut the ears/tabs off the old ball joint was invaluble thanks! it was also difficult starting the bushes off with the press so I found that starting it off with a lump hammer was the best way! Cheers ted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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