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Uprating the a front axle...


Orange

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Thought the Int’l forum would be best as it’s not just a Defender specific question, but, mods, feel free to move if you see fit...

I’m looking to get a bit more strength into the front axle of my 200TDi 90... The current set-up is standard, so 10 spline Diff with 32 splines at the CV. I am looking into upgrading everything, so diff, shafts and CVs.

The fitting of AEU2522 CVs means going to 23 spline at the CV end, not too much of an issue, however my research on this forum tells me that the AEU2522s are a bigger CV unit so as far as I can tell this means that I require either hubs/swivel housings from a vehicle that had them fitted as standard or I need to machine the current ones. First question is whether hubs from an ABS Range Rover will fit without the need for machining as I have a pair of them sat in the garage? I realise that the RR hubs would be metric, so I would have to consider this when ordering the various bits and pieces...

Next question is if AEU2522s will fit into my existing hubs, will they marry up with my imperial drive flanges? I’m guessing it’s only the number of splines that changes, however having ordered the wrong halfshaft from Bearmach (10/23 spline) there was a definite difference in diameter of the splined end... Is there the same difference between the 2 types of CV?

Another question is if anyone has experience of GKNs flexible halfshafts? I have been in contact with GKN and they have given me prices and availability, but I haven’t yet managed to catch their Land Rover expert at his desk... If you have run GKN shafts, what was your set-up? 10/23 or 10/32 spline or will I need to go to a 24 spline diff centre with these, too? Did you run uprated CVs, AEU2522s or just the standard ones?

If I go for a set-up like ARB, uprated shafts and AEU2522s, is the CV then the weakest point? Am I best to upgrade the CVs at the same time, or should I leave a ‘weaker link’ in there so that if something does break, it’s going to be the cheapest repair??

I realise that I could ring Ashcroft and get the whole package to suit my vehicle, but I’m not overly flush at the moment... I have spoken to Dave Ashcroft and discussed my options, but I am still confused by the whole thing!! I think I need to understand the whole set-up before laying my hard-earned on the counter!! If anyone can offer information in leymans terms, I’d really appreciate it!! I hope you can make sense of my garbled questions....I’m confusing myself writing it all down!!!

TIA

Adrian

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Guest WALFY

Adrian

You know my setup. I bit the bullet and went to Ashcrofts. Happy ever since. I know people have bust the CV's but not heard of anyone busting a shaft from there. BUT I know of several GKN shafts that have broken. Plus with Ashcrofts you get a big warranty. Worth it's weight in gold and the service is brill.

For me I would put the axle back together as is and save a bit and take a day out to Luton. We can discuss further tonight over a beer ;)

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AEU2522s will fit in your hubs already

I have them in mine and I have the 300 set up with smaller (read narrower) hubs drive members to suit

which are available from Bearmach(unknown quality) or Ashcrofts

I suggest like Walfy save up and fit the Ashcroft gear the GKN stuff will break as it has done for Nick Walker/Tim Jones(200TDI)

If you d bust shafts/CVs you get the back up.

To date mine have been faultless

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Guest WALFY

I knew whose shafts had broken but wasn't going to say. But yes that veh has broken shafts in the ownership of both Nick and Tim. I sa it when Nick broke them at 7S last year. Not a hard drive but broke a rear shaft, Nick Watts drove the same stage 10 mins later with no dramas at all. As for Tim, I knew knew he broke them but didn't know the full facts so will leave it at that.

But Nick used to carry spare shafts. That tells you a lot about the strength of the GKN stuff.

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Bit Secret Squirrel there Mark.:)

Lara has broken nigh on everything

he IIRC holds a special place for KAM stuff.

if I ever need new shafts(I have Maxidrive) I'll get Ashcrofts as they are easier to buy from

they weren't available when I was looking for upgrades.

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Guest WALFY
Bit Secret Squirrel there Mark. :)

Lara has broken nigh on everything

he IIRC holds a special place for KAM stuff.

if I ever need new shafts(I have Maxidrive) I'll get Ashcrofts as they are easier to buy from

they weren't available when I was looking for upgrades.

Not secret squirrel :ph34r: . Just diplomatic. Not that I can be accused of that on a regular basis.

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Adrian

On the budget side!

I have the AEU2522s CV's a 24 spline two pinion (my fuseable link!) and a set of Ashcroft shafts I bought cheap from a good friend because he upgraded to a Salisbury on the front. I always overfill the diff so it doesn't get oil starvation on slopes.

Rear is a Salisbury with a set of Pete Rowe shafts on standard LR flanges (fuseable link).

To be honest the front set up lasted 200K and 20 years with just a CV change and it only lunched itself under power whilst left foot braking. Diff and shafts all went for a burton. The mix of tyres and tyre sizes and the hard use it has had with me and it's previous owners proves how a standard system can last. I re-built it stronger because I needed the vehicle to be reliable. I would ring Ashcrofts and have a chat. Tell them what you want and what you need and then let them tell you the cost. It's only money.

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Orange, here are a few options:

1) Stay with what you've got and repair the damage (weakest front axle Land Rover made and shafts are probably the weak link)

2) Upgrade to AEU2522's (either using conversion bushes and drive flanges or fitting earlier stubs and hubs), 23/10 spline shafts standard shafts and keep your diff. Its a slightly stronger setup but it isn't bullet proof. The waek link is still probably the shaft or possibly the diff.

3) Upgrade to AEU2522 CV's, Upgraded shafts (This has been covered adequately above all I'll say is my money would either go to Ashcrofts or Maxi Drive ;) ) and an uprated diff. The weak link is the CV. Bear in mind this is not really what you want to break as a CV stub failer often takes out the stub axle making a quick repair impossible and a CV bell failer will often lock up the swivel imobilising the vehicle.

4) Ashcroft CV's, uprated shafts and an uprated diff. This will be pretty safe for reasonable power and reasonably large tyres. Yes its expensive but the warranty speaks for itself!

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I fitted Maxi-drive axles and kit for AEU2522's in my 300Tdi disco.

To fit AEU2522 cv's, a bronze bush replaces the needle roller bearing in the spindles and the drive flange is replaced with a thicker, custom one to accommodate the longer stub shaft on the AEU2522.

This is the strongest axle/halfshaft and stock cv combination, without going to the better 4340/300M material for cv's, as sold by Ashcrofts.

Mal has retired and Maxi-drive closed down, but one of his former employees has taken over the axle/halfshaft business (High Tough Engineering or similar name).

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Guest weeble
Adrian

You know my setup. I bit the bullet and went to Ashcrofts. Happy ever since. I know people have bust the CV's but not heard of anyone busting a shaft from there. BUT I know of several GKN shafts that have broken. Plus with Ashcrofts you get a big warranty. Worth it's weight in gold and the service is brill.

For me I would put the axle back together as is and save a bit and take a day out to Luton. We can discuss further tonight over a beer ;)

You havent got the tyres dirty yet though have you :P:P .

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Depending on which way you decide to go I have a complete early 110 axle with AEU2522 CV's. So no need to use the maxi drive kit to fit AEU2522's as it has the correct hubs/stubs/drive flanges etc.

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Depending on which way you decide to go I have a complete early 110 axle with AEU2522 CV's. So no need to use the maxi drive kit to fit AEU2522's as it has the correct hubs/stubs/drive flanges etc.

Raises a point - when converting to early 110 - what is required?

I.e. if I have a 32 spline rangine setup, but also have the 110 setup - what is the minimum I can get away with swapping?

Idealy I would like to keep the RR brakes (save pratting about with the double line plumbing)

Can I keep the RR swivel and housing? (I know the 110 has bigger top pin etc).

The reason for asking is that my RR setup is in much better condition than the donor 110 parts.

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