salisbury diff nose seal

[Stroppy Cow]

changing the seal on my 110 salisbury diff nose.....taken of the flange and the metal retainer and the leather seals and a washer....my question is can you get a normal rubber seal and flat retainer know or do i have to buy another kit consisting of more leather seals????

[FridgeFreezer]

When you buy a new one the chances are it'll be made of rubber.

[mmgemini]

changing the seal on my 110 salisbury diff nose.....taken of the flange and the metal retainer and the leather seals and a washer....my question is can you get a normal rubber seal and flat retainer know or do i have to buy another kit consisting of more leather seals????

I take it you know you can't just take the flange off a Salisbuty diff ???

[Guest diesel_jim]

You can take the flange off Mike, just undo the big nut....

however, there is a "crush tube" inside, which crushes at a predetermined torque, to pre-load the bearings.

before you remove the flange (which seems to be too late now by what you've posted) you should mark the nut in relation to the threaded end of the pinion, with a felt tip/tippex etc, so that when you refit it all, you can do the but back up in the same place as it came off, and hence keep the same preload on the bearings.

[mmgemini]

YJim I know.

There's still a lot of people that do not know that.....

Now it's a very long time since I did a Salisbury.... 1976 about.

I thought the crush tube was only used in the initial build. Then measured and shims added to the length of the crush tube.....Anyways that's what sticks in my mind......

[Stroppy Cow]

YJim I know.

There's still a lot of people that do not know that.....

Now it's a very long time since I did a Salisbury.... 1976 about.

I thought the crush tube was only used in the initial build. Then measured and shims added to the length of the crush tube.....Anyways that's what sticks in my mind......

yes i already have the flange off the retainer out and the big washer out ...just leaving the bearing showing...obviously ive gone about it like i would normally(bull in a china shop)and ripped it all apart and learn as i put it all back together...but surely when they built the diff they just put in the necessary bits then done it up with a torque wrench????(the sensible thing to have done would have been to mark it though) I just would have thought that these days you could do away with crush tubes and leather washers etc for a thick rubber oil seal and a washer to hold it???simular to the V8 diff ive done before??

[treebloke]

Did yours look like this, mine does.

My bearing feels ok but the seal has gone kaput.

I know what you mean about marking the nut but you are assuming it was tensioned correctly the last time it was done. Chances are it might not have been.

Any idea what the torque is for the big nut or do you rely on the crush tube somehow?.

[FridgeFreezer]

The torque is in the region of 250lb/ft and the tolerance for over-tightening and killing the crush tube is pretty low (in other words if you just heave on it and over-do it, it's f***ed). Hence why counting the turns and marking the nut is helpful.

The yank versions use shims but to swap (which is doable) means rebuilding the diff and resetting the clearances, which is a whole lot of arse. Cheaper to buy a new back axle on ebay, they usually go for about £50.

[Les Henson]

The replacement seal for the salisbury axle that Bearmach supply is the same metal-coated type. You have to be very careful when installing it - they are easily damaged.

Les.

[treebloke]

Cheaper to buy a new back axle on ebay, they usually go for about £50.

That seems a bit excesive just to replace an oil seal, is it really that tricky .

[Night Train]

That seems a bit excesive just to replace an oil seal, is it really that tricky .

I've done a few in my time. The first one I didn't mark the nut and it all went pear shaped. All the others I followed instructions, marked the nut, counted the number of turns and put back as it was before and all was fine. It is not really a lot of trouble done this way.

[FridgeFreezer]

That seems a bit excesive just to replace an oil seal, is it really that tricky .

It's excessive to replace an oil seal, yes, but if you've b*ggered your pinion crush tube up in the process it's a whole lot easier to swap a new axle in than rebuild the diff.

[Diff]

changing the seal on my 110 salisbury diff nose.....taken of the flange and the metal retainer and the leather seals and a washer....my question is can you get a normal rubber seal and flat retainer know or do i have to buy another kit consisting of more leather seals????

You should be given a one piece seal with rubber sealing lips.

Further to the earlier advice on retightening the pinion nut, here is an excerpt from one of my previous posts to someone else who asked a similar question, which may be of use:

'110s with the Salisbury type rear axle, don't have a specific touque value for the nut. Here is part of an explanation on refitting the flange nut that I wrote for someone else which may help you:

Unfortunately there isn't a set torque figure for the flange nut. The idea is that the preload on the pinion bearings is set whilst the main part of the diff is removed from the axle casing.

When the axle is set up during initial building, the pinion/flange nut is tightened until the resistance required to turn the flange is 30 to 40 lbs inch without the crownwheel assembly fitted. This is NOT the torque setting for the nut.

Basically, when the nut is tightened it gradually crushes a special spacer between the bearings. A spring balance is attached to one of the propshaft bolt holes in the diff flange and the resistance to turning should be 30 to 40 lbs for new bearings, or 15 to 30 lbs for when reusing the existing bearings.

The actual torque wrench figure for the nut may vary from vehicle to vehicle to achieve the same preload on the bearings.

As you can appreciate, when changing the oil seal, it is a bit impractical to remove the whole crownwheel diff assembly from the back of the axle in order to check the bearing preload with a spring balance.

So, provided the axle is otherwise good and you can't detect any play within the pinion bearings before you undo the flange nut, you should do your best to ensure that the relationship between the nut and the shaft is exactly the same when you put it back together.

That is why you need to mark the nut and the end of the pinion shaft (as accurately as you can)before removing the nut and flange. When refitting the nut after changing the seal you should tighten the nut to the point where the marks are exactly the same. The flange should also be marked in relation to the pinion shaft too, just to eliminate any possible discrepancies which might occur if you refit it on a different spline.'

Hope this helps,

Regards,

Diff

[mmgemini]

Diff.

Thats a very clear post.

One silly thing for me.

I certainly remember using a mike on the tube and replacing the crush washer with a non crushable washer and shims.

That was in the 1970's at a Ford transmission course.

Did I wonder Salisbury change that crushable washer. Or is my memory all wrong.

I've only done three Salisbury diffs. Two on the course and one in the workshop. I will not ever do another one.....

mike

Oh yes. It was on that Ford course that I learnt the mark trick.

[Stroppy Cow]

Diff.

Thats a very clear post.

One silly thing for me.

I certainly remember using a mike on the tube and replacing the crush washer with a non crushable washer and shims.

That was in the 1970's at a Ford transmission course.

Did I wonder Salisbury change that crushable washer. Or is my memory all wrong.

I've only done three Salisbury diffs. Two on the course and one in the workshop. I will not ever do another one.....

mike

Oh yes. It was on that Ford course that I learnt the mark trick.

ok so ive worked out what i should have done...but i didnt...know i have returned home with a new flange kit(stc 4457)..which consists off...A NEW FLANGE WITH A DUST COVER FITTED TO IT.....A NEW METAL RETAINER WITH BUILT IN SEAL......WASHER AND NUT.....

know forgive me im not amazingly mechanicaly minded but can someone give me an abc to fitting it back in...or would it be easier to take it to a garage....Their was a big washer up against the bearing would that need to be reffited with my new seal kit....cheers stu

[Les Henson]

Put the big washer (thrust washer akchooly) in first, then drift the new seal in (drift - not belt the hell out of it). The outer steel edge of the new seal will be flat against the lip of the diff nose. Apply grease to the lip of the new seal, apply grease to the surface of the drive flange that runs on the seal (called a 'land'), then carefully push the new flange onto the pinion shaft. Put the washer on, then the nut, and then do it up mental tight plus a bit more mentaltightness. I know people have been scary about torque figures, but in reality - mental tighness is ok and will do the job. The very worst that can happen is that you might still have a leak - easily fixed by even more mentaltightness on top the mentaltightness that you previously thought was enough to do the job. If you don't have it in you to do anymore mentaltightness, then have fat people party and as one of the games (other than the 'keys in the middle of the living room floor' one ), have a 'how many people can stand on this bar at the same time' game - wiv a prize of a Hobnob (or first pick of the keys in the middle of the living room floor)

Disclaimer -

I didn't make this post - no siree, if your truck blows up, then you did it and it's your fault. LR4x4.com had nowt to do with it either, it's your fault, you did it wrong, tough luck.

SimonR has offered to cough up in the case of you dying a terrible, painful death, so moan to him, not me

Les ( no-not that one)

[Stroppy Cow]

Put the big washer (thrust washer akchooly) in first, then drift the new seal in (drift - not belt the hell out of it). The outer steel edge of the new seal will be flat against the lip of the diff nose. Apply grease to the lip of the new seal, apply grease to the surface of the drive flange that runs on the seal (called a 'land'), then carefully push the new flange onto the pinion shaft. Put the washer on, then the nut, and then do it up mental tight plus a bit more mentaltightness. I know people have been scary about torque figures, but in reality - mental tighness is ok and will do the job. The very worst that can happen is that you might still have a leak - easily fixed by even more mentaltightness on top the mentaltightness that you previously thought was enough to do the job. If you don't have it in you to do anymore mentaltightness, then have fat people party and as one of the games (other than the 'keys in the middle of the living room floor' one ), have a 'how many people can stand on this bar at the same time' game - wiv a prize of a Hobnob (or first pick of the keys in the middle of the living room floor)

Disclaimer -

I didn't make this post - no siree, if your truck blows up, then you did it and it's your fault. LR4x4.com had nowt to do with it either, it's your fault, you did it wrong, tough luck.

SimonR has offered to cough up in the case of you dying a terrible, painful death, so moan to him, not me

Les ( no-not that one)

thanks les.....already had been out and done what you said bar the grease....didnt think of that....i remembered when i undone the nut that it wasnt actually madly hard to undoo...so i done up as madly un hard as it was to undoo....will give her a run tommorow and see if my undooing doing up mentaly hardness has done the trick ....cheers...if it fails ill just set fire to the truck and get a new one....