white90 Posted June 22, 2008 Share Posted June 22, 2008 tech archive Castor correction will explain Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
q-rover Posted June 23, 2008 Share Posted June 23, 2008 Paddocks sell castor corrected swivels. Castor corrected swivelball Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landrovermanuk Posted June 23, 2008 Share Posted June 23, 2008 Thanks... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landrovermanuk Posted June 23, 2008 Share Posted June 23, 2008 White90, I tried the castor correction link but the site it leads to has crashed....Apparently the server and back up both lost their hard drives....I take it I would need new swivels....Might be the excuse I need to upgrade the cv joints. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ex_mod_90 Posted June 23, 2008 Share Posted June 23, 2008 I looked for a long time at fitting castor corrected front arms, before fitting my OME lift. I looked at alot of the arguments for, i.e. sterring not self centering etc, and decided to save the pennies, and if the steering was truely awful, as reported byt some people I spoke to i'd get some front arms. I had also heard from some people that they had bend a few aftermarket arms (mentioning no names). So I fitted Gwyn Lewis challenge kit, and the handling is fine. The steering self centers fine (with 35" Simex ET's) I have seen no detriment to the handling or anything else for that matter. I understand the science behind the castor corrected arms, but in my expereince with my truck I cant see any reason for changing what LR had designed. Certainly if you bend a standard arm, your doing well! Just my 2p's worth! Rich. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Abel Posted June 23, 2008 Share Posted June 23, 2008 I would just like to say that Simons arms are a very good product and will work very well for the majority of landrover owners. I have tried a set of Scrap iorn rose jointed arms on my range rover and they could not handle the 14 inches of air shox travel, when the rear axle articulated i found that the rear wheel was driving under the car and causing it to crab steer. When reversing like this the axle was being forced under the car and putting huge amounts of strain on the shock body. the QT arms would behave in exactly the same way as the scrap iorn stuff.. The Long arm suspension kits for jeeps in the states have been avalable for years, the longer arms can deal with longer shocks and make the car far more stable at speed and under full articulation. The gigglepin arms work well for me and ive even got mine mounted upside down ive not bent them yet and i dont think they ever will after the abuse i gave them yesterday Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roguevogue Posted June 24, 2008 Share Posted June 24, 2008 I would also refer to the question of the material and shape of the arm. When dragging 2 tonnes of truck over rock, a large part of the weight will, at some time, rest on the arm. A point load of, lets say 1 tonne, at the mid-point of the arm, will not cause any damage at all to the Gigglepin arm. This is due to the material, its gauge, and the bracing. What is the relative gauge and spec of materials in these arms? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pongo Posted June 25, 2008 Share Posted June 25, 2008 What is the relative gauge and spec of materials in these arms? Not my place to tell everyone what the spec is - if Jim wants to impart the information that's fine. You would have to ask him. However, we have abused these arms on rocks many times, but you couldn't tell by looking at them. They seem bomb-proof. Ask anyone else who is using them, and I am sure you will get the same reply. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Wightman Posted June 25, 2008 Share Posted June 25, 2008 Not my place to tell everyone what the spec is - if Jim wants to impart the information that's fine. You would have to ask him. And presumably Simon about his? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
filthy boy Posted June 25, 2008 Share Posted June 25, 2008 And presumably Simon about his? I will share! Lower links that are sufficiently strong in tension / compression is easy but as said above they get abused on rocks and so you need a link that will not collapse even after being whacked on the side and possibly dented. A link that can't survive that is not particularly useful. We have a "spare" set of lower links in T45 tube but the main set are now made from anodised 7075 aluminium. Solid 2" for the lowers and 1.5" for the uppers. It goes against the engineers to use solid but this is not the usual application. They are not used to people parking on their suspension links Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Wightman Posted June 25, 2008 Share Posted June 25, 2008 Tim, are you saying Jim's arms are made of T45 or 7075 aluminium? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
filthy boy Posted June 25, 2008 Share Posted June 25, 2008 Tim, are you saying Jim's arms are made of T45 or 7075 aluminium? No, mine are. Just making the point that suspension arms need to be able to survive sideways abuse from rocks and stuff, not just along the axis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Wightman Posted June 26, 2008 Share Posted June 26, 2008 No, mine are.Just making the point that suspension arms need to be able to survive sideways abuse from rocks and stuff, not just along the axis. Tim, very interesting you went for the 7075 aluminium, which one, 7075-5, 7075-T6, 7075-T651? Be interested to know which one you chose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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