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Rear sailbury axle wheel bearing nuts...??


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Hello Guys,

I think I read on here some where that it's a good idea to do away with the single nut and run 2x, one as a locking nut..??

Or did I dream, dreaming of wheel bearings... I need to get out more..!!!

cheers

Dave

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If you mean doing away with the staked nut & use 2 x hex nut & lockwasher, it's on here somewhere. IIRC all rear Salisbury axles have the 2 nuts anyway, it's the later Rover rear axle [Td5 on] that has the staked nut.

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If you mean doing away with the staked nut & use 2 x hex nut & lockwasher, it's on here somewhere. IIRC all rear Salisbury axles have the 2 nuts anyway, it's the later Rover rear axle [Td5 on] that has the staked nut.

Hi Ralph,

Thanks for your reply, I'm replacing a 98 Td5 sailbury axle (which has the staked nuts) with an earlier one and was wondering the which is the best set up to use...

cheers

Dave

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IMHO, the old 2 nuts system is the easiest way to adjust the bearings IF, and only IF, you know how to properly do the job: either because you have the necessary "feel" in your hands (a bit of experience is required), or you have the proper tool (dial gauge).

Outside of this, the one nut system, with the precalibrated spacer, is way much simpler and safer; you can disassemble your hub, clean ad relube the bearings, or even replace them, without bothering about correct play, per-load and the like: just reuse the spacer that mothe LR fitted in Solihull, and that's all!.

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the earlier 2 nuts & lock washer is easiet to adjust.

this is the rear disc brake hub parts for 110 from chassis LA930435, it should help. :D

Thats brilliant it has part numbers too, thanks Ralph.

I found this info in archive section too...

"In our workshop we throw that TD5 junk away and fit two nuts and a lock washer as before. Why have taper roller bearings fitted if they are not adjustable?"

cheers

Dave

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yes, that's a quote from Jim Attrill, Esq.

But he will pardon me if I respectfully dissent from his view...

And it is not true that in a Td5 the taper roller bearings aren't adjustable: there's a full range of different spacers to select the correct one from, thus giving the correct amount of play.

Actually, it was LR which did the job to select the correct spacer, we just have to stick to what they chose once and for all (unless you change the whole hub or stub shaft, that is). Even changing the bearings won't require the selection of a new spacer, as bearings are manufactured to the highest dimensional tolerances.

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Yup, Silvio is spot on, the shim system is best, as long as you do not change anything other than bearings. If you do, you will need the dial gauge and new shim/s. This makes it easy for anyone to do, however, I chose to change mine to the old two nut system though and it is all working just fine. :) The two nut system allows any wear that does occur to be taken up rather than having to change the bearings whenever there is any play in them.

My advice to any later defender owner, however old, would be to take the outer bearing out and make sure that there is plenty of grease in there - my experience of my '04 Defender suggests that LR put very little grease in there.

Chris

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Chris.

Years and years ago I was at a Ford Rally Sport do.

There was a bearing company there.

They told us that you only need a smear of grease on the bearing rollers.......Well I think Land Rover think the same thing. After all they're selling bearings..

I still pack my bearings with grease..Stuff what the manufacturers say

mike

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If you go back to the 2 nuts system, you must also consider that tighteningt the second nut (the locknut) will affect the amount of play that you have pre-set with the first nut, reducing it.

So you actually have to leave a slightly excessive play, considering that it will be taken up when you'll tighten the second nut; all in all, for the do-it-yourself practitioner I consider the shim system far more foolproof (no offence intended,obviously).

A for the amount of grease,I remember reading a FAG manual stating that aart rom filling the bearing with grease, its housing should be packed with grease for about 33 to 50% of its volume. However, if you go playing in water/mud, the more grease the better, I believe, as the grease will make a barrier against dirt/mud/water.

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Thanks for all your advice, just to make sure I retain the status quo, I think I'll run two nuts on one side and the single nut set up on the other side.... :lol::lol::lol:

Seriously though I should get time over the weekend to finish off the axle swap, I'll have a play and see which set up I'm comfortable with and run that one...

Thanks again to one and all

Dave..

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