Defender 110 Td5

[thebiglad]

Hi all, a pal has the TD5 Defender, which appears to have a clutch problem.

Apparently gear changing is fine, but if you stay in gear at halt eg. at traffic lights, sometimes it stalls whilst in gear, then there is no feel in the pedal and it's impossible to select gears again, until you stop the engine and restart it.

Anyone got any ideas where I should start with this??

Cheers for any and all suggestions

Cheers Dave

[BogMonster]

If it is not leaking clutch fluid I would say that the master cylinder has an internal leak so is not holding pressure, therefore it is alright for a short time but if sitting with the clutch depressed, you will gradually lose pressure and then it will be no use till everything has sorted itself out. A new set of master cyl seals might fix it.

[JimAttrill]

But if the little seal in the front of the mc fails the vehicle will drive itself away, while the pedal is on the metal. This happened to me, you have to turn the key off quickly or stall the engine to avoid driving into the car in front.

This 'it is impossible to change gears until you stop the engine and restart it' - does this include pumping the clutch pedal?

Anyway, change the clutch master cylinder, they don't last long. Preferably get it resleeved in stainless steel which is what we do. Then, if you fit a genuine AP seal kit (available from Bearmach), it should last. Fitting a genuine or pirate m/c is a waste of time IMHO, they all fail quickly, especially with the increased pedal pressure required for a TD5.

It is a SII part, after all (and not DII)

[thebiglad]

I've just had a drive of my mates Defender and have come to the following conclusions, based on a lack on experience of driving TD5 Defenders (prat!!)

1. The gear change is a bit notchy, maybe they're all like that;

2. The clutch is not slipping at all and displayed no symptoms

3. Have suggested we change the slave & master cylinders at the same time.

So, please, can anyone guide me as to how to do this ???

It's a 2002 Defender 110 with an R380 gearbox.

I've had a quick look underneath and there seem to be several plastic shields under the engine and gearboxes, so I suppose first job is to remove them ??

After that where will I find the slave cylinder and what do I need to do/be aware of, in order to change it? Apart from the slave cylinder itself are there any seals/washers/nuts that I should have in stock before starting this?

Ditto for the master cylinder.

All help/suggestions welcomed - thanks in advance for assistance

Cheers

Dave

[110WestCape]

Ditto for the master cylinder.

All help/suggestions welcomed - thanks in advance for assistance

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=13350

Try this in the Technical Archive ....... Les Henson's kind contribution.

[Mo Murphy]

Good old Uncle Les to the rescue

thebiglad,

To change the clutch master cylinder is also straight forward but you'll need to remove the pedal box from the footwell (it's only 6 bolts). You'll need to disconnect the clutch pipe first and the electrical connection to the clutch switch (if yours has one), remove the pedal box bolts and then remove the assy, you will need to rotate it to get it through the available space. Now you can change the master cylinder on the bench, it's just an unbolt job.

Once done and refitted it will probably be necessary to reset the pedal height and adjust the free play in the pedal stroke. This can be found in the Haynes book, in Rave or the genuine manual or see here (this is an important bit bit so don't skip it).

Buy Genuine or OE manufacturer slave and master, the pattern versions are not worth even their low cost.

HTH

Mo