removing an engine

[bushwhacker]

Hi not sure if this is the correct area, but can anyone advise on an engine removal. I know all wires, pipes cables hoses should be labelled. Also bonnet taken off, gear, box exhaust and radiator what else ? I need the correct sequence to actully what should be done after the above. Hoping the above is somewhere near were I should be.

The vehicle is a 1984 Lightweight LHD with a VM td I have another VM td to go in. Got it as I was hoping to make it easier to put back in, big question mark looming. I have use of a hoist, axle stands and tools.

Any help and advise would be very much appreciated.

Mark

[Lara]

Disconnect all the things you listed, no real order other than Engine mounts last!

I always drain the water and oil first, makes things easier from then on.

And remove the radiator!

Disconnect all cables and electrickery etc, Label all as it is your first time,

Undo bell housing bolts and remove starter,

Fit engine hoist,

undo engine mounts,

Hoist up slightly to clear engine mounts, (do not force it!)

Pull engine forwards to disconnect it from the gearbox, you may need a friend.

Once free from gearbox lift it out, but be careful as you will have left something connected or a wire on etc,

And don't force anything, if it won't come, there is probably a reason!

Lara.

Good luck!

[Turbocharger]

As above. Lift it slowly and look all around it - I couldn't understand why a 2.25P was magnetically attracted to the dashboard every time the exhaust came to wing top height - until I spotted the choke cable!

Make sure the clutch is aligned centrally. When you're putting the engine back in, it might help to put the car in gear and jack up one wheel so you can rotate the gearbox input shaft to help the splines line up too - again, don't force it.

[missingsid]

Biggest pain I've had is getting it back in. The input shaft not only has the splines to line up but the shaft its self has to be inline on two planes. The side to side plane is easy as you can look down the engine and align it with the chassis. I found the up down axis a problem as some engines are higher at the fron than at the rear (RR V8) and it is difficult to gauge.

On idea is to use an engine tilter on the hoist, it won't help any if you need to tilt it to get it over the chassis but it will help maintain a constant angle whilst you push and wiggle

[bushwhacker]

Thanks for the pointers guys

Mark

[Sabre]

Biggest pain I've had is getting it back in. The input shaft not only has the splines to line up but the shaft its self has to be inline on two planes. The side to side plane is easy as you can look down the engine and align it with the chassis. I found the up down axis a problem as some engines are higher at the fron than at the rear (RR V8) and it is difficult to gauge.

On idea is to use an engine tilter on the hoist, it won't help any if you need to tilt it to get it over the chassis but it will help maintain a constant angle whilst you push and wiggle

To help with the allignment, cut 3 studs approx 2.5 inches long, and screw them into 3 of the bellhousing to engine holes. You can then allign the engine and bellhousing before the g/box input shaft enters the clutch. If the clutch was lined up with a clutch allignment shaft, then you will greatly reduce the effort/frustration