Chris123 Posted September 18, 2008 Share Posted September 18, 2008 Evening people, Been a while since I've done any work on my hybrid (blaming house move on that), and I've been contemplating about moving the radiator into the back. This would allow the engine to moved even further forward without any problems, so that it's easier to squeeze the LT77 + lt230 etc. in place and still retain the series front panel in place. My plan for this is to fit a front panel and rad from a defender in the rear tub, just behind the rear bulkhead. This will prolly require some cutting and fitting, but I imagine that's fairly straight forward, I'll also use some panelling with vents to make it look tidy. I'll then be able to fit a couple of kenlowes to this for cooling. Now aside from running hoses from the front to rear, does anyone see any major problems with this idea? Thanks, Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gremlin Posted September 19, 2008 Share Posted September 19, 2008 I do not see the reason to do it as it all fits, i had the same setup with a 200 tdi and an lt77 and the inset front. You will have more work than you might think by going in that direction. Grem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted September 19, 2008 Share Posted September 19, 2008 I do not see the reason to do it as it all fits I do - having the rad in the back moves it away from being clogged up with mud or damaged, and it means you can run a fine-finned rad from something modern to get more cooling in the same space. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T1G UP Posted September 19, 2008 Share Posted September 19, 2008 Any "rad in the rear" pics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gremlin Posted September 19, 2008 Share Posted September 19, 2008 I do - having the rad in the back moves it away from being clogged up with mud or damaged, and it means you can run a fine-finned rad from something modern to get more cooling in the same space. Ok fair point, but if you are not going to tackle that type of situations, like an occasional green lane i see no point i taking all that work! If its for a challege or competitive vehicle than i agree. Grem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris123 Posted September 23, 2008 Author Share Posted September 23, 2008 I do not see the reason to do it as it all fits, i had the same setup with a 200 tdi and an lt77 and the inset front. You will have more work than you might think by going in that direction.Grem Hi Gremlin, Did you have any problems with the propshaft lengths and angles etc (this is an 88")? As I've seen photos of chassis members cut before in the past to try and have these fitted, which is something I want to avoid. Thanks, Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon White Posted September 23, 2008 Share Posted September 23, 2008 Bear in mind you cant move the engine forward by very much at all or else the front axle/diff will coult the bottom pulley of the engine on full bump! Props are easier to mod - rear is just a shorten it job. Its the front that is the fun one. I'm running Lt77 and LT230 in an 88" and could go back to the series front if requried. I run the defender front cos I prefer the look however. Bear in mind that at speed rear mounted rads cause all sorts of fun and games with cooling as the airflow does strange things. Mate of mine has had terrible trouble with his safari racer with a rear mounted rad for this very reason! Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon White Posted September 23, 2008 Share Posted September 23, 2008 I would add that with parabolics on an otherwise standard unmodified 88" there is insufficient clearance for the front prop against the crossmember anyway. You need to scallop it out. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris123 Posted September 23, 2008 Author Share Posted September 23, 2008 I would add that with parabolics on an otherwise standard unmodified 88" there is insufficient clearance for the front prop against the crossmember anyway. You need to scallop it out.Jon Eugh, I feel a bit foolish in having bought a galv. chassis. And is one of the things I was trying to avoid, was hoping it could be avoided by moving the whole lot forward, and fitting extended shackles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted September 23, 2008 Share Posted September 23, 2008 Bear in mind that at speed rear mounted rads cause all sorts of fun and games with cooling as the airflow does strange things. Mate of mine has had terrible trouble with his safari racer with a rear mounted rad for this very reason! Funny, the four trucks I know with rear rads cool really well, I guess it's down to design though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gremlin Posted September 24, 2008 Share Posted September 24, 2008 Hi Gremlin,Did you have any problems with the propshaft lengths and angles etc (this is an 88")? As I've seen photos of chassis members cut before in the past to try and have these fitted, which is something I want to avoid. Thanks, Chris Both props are custom made and i chopped off 2 cross members and scalloped 1! Mine is a 109......... Grem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris123 Posted October 6, 2008 Author Share Posted October 6, 2008 Just had an "aarrghh!!" moment... If I were to move the engine (V8) & gearbox (LT77) 4.5 inches forward so that the crank pulley is only about 1.5 inches away from the front x-member, are the gearsticks going stick somewhere really annoying... like sitting in the bulkhead? Thanks, Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris123 Posted October 6, 2008 Author Share Posted October 6, 2008 Followed by an "oooohhh" moment... If that does happen and the sticks are in a poor place then I can just fit the Range Rover LT77 box with the rearward set sticks, which I accidently bought. Assuming that the bellhousing and mainshaft are easy enough to swap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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