TIMBERWOLF Posted September 24, 2008 Share Posted September 24, 2008 What would the forum recommend as the proceedure for getting up oil pressure and then the initial breakin period for a rebuilt 3.5? The carbs are an unknown quantity too, is there a 'safe' set up for the su until a proper rolling road type assessment is made? I'm a newby too the 3.5 but have mechanical experiance elsewhere, (shan't say where for fear of derision!!! ) seems a nice freindly place round here... Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveRK Posted September 25, 2008 Share Posted September 25, 2008 Land Rover's advice for priming the oil pump is to pack it with Vaseline (not grease). This worked for me after doing a cam shaft replacement job. I turned the engine over without the plugs in first but this didn't create enough pressure to extinguish the light. With hind-sight it would have been better to simply start the engine as after trying to prime the pressure with the plugs out the Vaseline would have been displaced. AS for running in the engine i cant help on this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted September 25, 2008 Share Posted September 25, 2008 Much depends on what has been rebuilt new cam and bearing new rings and plateau honed bores ?...or just some new bits and bobs ? As a minimum get an old dizzy drive connector that connects to the top of the drive that sticks up out of the oil pump, then weld on an extwension and I have found a piece of hose pipe over it all then means its a snuggish fit down where the dizzy goes... Then connect a BIG electric drill, prime the oil pump with vasoline, connect the unit on the drill and hit the power, with the rocker covers off you'll see the pump prime the entire engine and the oil work its way around seeping out where it should inc the lifters rockers arms etc etc. This when done measn when the engine is aterted the engine is well and truly primed and oiled without metal on metal as the oil builds up. For more exotic rebuilds then you need to have a run in a la BBC V8 thread where the revs are held at a corect value for a set time for running in vs glazing up HTH Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ally V8 Posted September 25, 2008 Share Posted September 25, 2008 Know what you mean about a BIG drill,did a big block Chev a few years back - amazing how much power the oil pump takes to drive esp with cold oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_d Posted September 25, 2008 Share Posted September 25, 2008 Most important question is have you changed the cam? If so it must be broken in at not less than 2000rpm for twenty minutes. you can and should vary the revs a little above this but do not go below. If you spring a leak or something and have to abort just turn off do not come down to tickover. When fixed start and go straight back to 2000. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quagmire Posted September 26, 2008 Share Posted September 26, 2008 I will be doing this too in a couple of weeks- I will have replaced cam, lifters, and complete rocker assemblies, will find out this weekend if i need to do anything about the pistons, crank etc. I too have rebuilt the SU's so am worried about putting an engine together and expecting it to actually run continuously from the first turn of the key! Useful link for carbs, i found this while googling around. If mods are not happy linking to this then feel free to take down. Rapidshare download Aren't you supposed to keep the revs below 1000 for 15secs or something on very first start so that you don't trash the rear crankseal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TIMBERWOLF Posted September 26, 2008 Author Share Posted September 26, 2008 So no real surprises for oil build up and break in, good! Same as what I've done before. Don't know what the engine has had for sure, it's at a local breakers, the guy's a lanny nut and got it ex ebay so whether it's had the list of parts that are shown on the accompanying invoice or not is anyones guess. It's looks to have had a freshen up, maybe a cam, can't remember. Need to look again and go into this with eyes wide shut I recon... good old ebay eh? I'll have a look at the link suggested. Any more good sources for SU knowledge? Used to webers and down draught solexes... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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