why 100" ??

[nicks90]

but it aint that simple, the rear bit of the chassis dips down quite a lot on a 90. you;d need to remove that and build it flatter. Wheels wont fit in the wheel arches on the rear tub either if you move the axle 7", so you either have to rebuild the tub with 7" inserted in front of the rear arches and remove 7" off the back of the tub - or go trayback. Moding the chassis and body, or going trayback - will probably mean you need to modify the rear cage and chassis/cage mounts too.

All costs money. Thats what i'm getting at. Is the gain worth the cost, or is it better to just spend that money on properly tuned suspension?

[Dave W]

being realistic, how much does it cost to convert a 93" to 100" for comps?

It doesn't really cost anything as part of building a motor. If you consider just the additional work involved in modifying the wheelbase I'd guestimate it'd come out at about half a day and material costs would involve a few pieces of steel plate, some MIG gas and wire. Adjusting the wheelbase is actually one of the easiest parts of a build. If you're starting with a 110 chassis it's even easier as you don't need to make a filler section. It took me about 2 hours to shorten mine and an hour of that was spent with the tape measure. That doesn't really have much effect on a build that took me 6 months to complete.

If you're building a new motor then why not go for, what you consider to be, the optimum wheelbase for the different uses you are putting the vehicle to ? After all, choosing 100" doesn't stop you adding a decent suspension setup as well...

[moose]

The way i did was to use difference between the 90 and disco rear prop and this is the extra wheel base length.

Not sure if its the right way or the wrong way but here is the quick over view of my build.

Oh and it seems to work ok for what i want it for.....

first mod the chassis

throw bits on it

make longer rear trailing arms

and A frame

Run of the mill 100 inch DONE

[plasticbadger]

Crikey, ultra compressed build thread come instruction manual in one. Simples.

Moose forgot to mention he started with a standard 90 chassis, cut off the rear droop, added straight extensions and fitted new spring seats 7" further back. He shows though that as part of a full build extending the wheelbase isn't that major at the rear, as you'd be wanting to modify the chassis and trailing arms anyway. Only the a-frame, moving the spring seats and cutting the tub are extra work in this case.

PS. those are my axle stands! Where are they?