Disco1 Floor replacement issues

[Mark]

Today, I have mostly been cutting the floor out of my disco. To be fair, I did more pulling than cutting, since it really wasnt attached much anymore!

Anyway, having hoped that I would get away with just replacing the floor panel, and some of the metal round the edge, I now also need to do some of the cross-members/floor supports.

From what I can see, there are 4 cross pieces uner the floor panel, which are (from the front):

1) 'Hat' sectiond cross member, welded to the floor either side, and sitting on chassis supports. Also has brake pipe support bracket.

2) flat floor support 'strap', welded at each end, but not suported on the chassis.

3) another 'hat' sectioned cross member supported on the chassis, and welded to the floor at either side.

4) Anther flat support strap, as per 2.

In my case, 1,2 and 4 all need replacing, but I cannot work out which repair section is which?

Craddocks list 3 sections:

and Paddocks list some too:

Does anyone know which ones I need?

Anyhelp really appreciated.

Thanks

Mark

ps The car is a 1991 TDI 3Door Disco with an HA Vin number.

ta

[TJ101]

Mark,, if it was me, and doing all that work, you must be keeping the Disco, go for the lot,, max overspend would only be £30,

Did one a few years back, and the floor panels were all back ordered, and had to make one, took one of my lads nearly all week !!

[Mark]

problem is there are 4 possible cross bars on the vehicle, and only 3 possible replacement parts - one of which seems to only be for much later vehicles!

Mark

[imspanners]

If I remember correctly, the 2 pairs of bars are identical.

So in theory you'd need:

2x ALR8519

2x ALR 8520

If you speak to Craddocks on the phone,

they may be able to help with a better description.

[Mark]

Cool, that was the information I needed!

ta

[Mark]

I have spoken to both Craddocks and Paddocks, and got two different reposnses:

Craddocks: ALR8519 and ALR8520 are the 'hat' sectioned cross members. ASR1187 is for later vehicles only (as shown in my screenshot) and the flat floor support straps are not available.

Paddocks: Same story regarding the cross members, but they say that ASR1187 is the flat support, and that I need two of them!

The Paddocks story was much closer to what I wanted to hear, but is it correct? Any ideas why craddocks seem to think they are different?

Cheers

Mark

[Matt Neale]

I have spoken to both Craddocks and Paddocks, and got two different reposnses:

Craddocks: ALR8519 and ALR8520 are the 'hat' sectioned cross members. ASR1187 is for later vehicles only (as shown in my screenshot) and the flat floor support straps are not available.

Paddocks: Same story regarding the cross members, but they say that ASR1187 is the flat support, and that I need two of them!

The Paddocks story was much closer to what I wanted to hear, but is it correct? Any ideas why craddocks seem to think they are different?

Cheers

Mark

Taken from the LR parts cat:-

MWC7600 Panel floor-inner - qty 1 - (To (V) TA 188059; To (V) TA 518820)

ASR1186 Panel floor-inner - qty 1 - (From (V) TA188060; From (V) TA518821)

ASR1187 Crossmember floor-rear - qty 2 (From (V) TA188060; From (V) TA 518821)

ALR8519 Crossmember floor-front - qty 1

ALR8520 Crossmember rear - qty 1

MWC 7600 & ASR1186 are the main floor - different part nos. dependant on VIN

ASR1187 & ALR8519 are shown on the diagram (not got a scanner, sorry!) as the "top hat" section - again part nos. depend on VIN.

I've copied the change point descriptions (from Vin ---- from Vin ---) exactly as they appear in the parts book - it doesn't appear to read correctly to me, as I would have expected it to say from VIN --- toVIN ---- ????

Hope this helps... although knowing me I've just confused things even more!

Cheers,

Matt

[Orgasmic Farmer]

Just to bring this back to the top as I am about to do my floor and have been puzzling over the part numbers too. Mark. Did you ever work out whcih were which on the cross-member front. I need the rearmost one (about 6 inches in from the rear door and the one between the 2 more sustantial top hat ones. ie. number 2 & 4 in your intial post. Did you ever work out the part number for these straps? An alternative I have thought of is to use a bit more substantail steel cut to it the floor opening, say 3 mm treadplate, or perhaps some thicker alloy treadplate as used in Ifor Williams trailers. Has anyone else tried somehting similar?

Cheers for all help

Mark

[Mark]

Mark,

I did this job in february and it is a bugger when you have as little amount of floor left as I had!

In answer to the question, my enquireies with paddocks turned up the correct set of parts. The Flat floor strengtheners are ASR1187 and despite the parts catalogue saying TA onwards it is lying.

You need both of the flat ones, which are the ASR1187 parts, and presumably you need the floor panel as well?

I needed all the side panels too, but rather than pay for the repair sections (£35 a side ) I made up the sections I needed from some flat plate and some lengths that I had folded - a bit more work, but much cheaper.

I wish I had teken pictures now, but I was working damn hard ready to get it done ready for the forum trip to wales.

Hope that helps.

Mark

[Orgasmic Farmer]

Brilliant, thanks Mark. That was exactly what I needed. Yes the floor needs replacing and has been removed by my mate who sold the truck to me (MOT fail). He also cut out the 2 support straps so was not sure what was missing or what they looked like till reading your post (the search function on the forum does work!). Luckily the rest of the floor and the arches are all in fine fettle and there is even a fair lip left for the new floor to sit on. I was going to use self drilling tech screws to fix the floor down since it is not structural and is covered with such a thick mat they would not be felt through the carpet. May ask another mate if he has some offcuts in Alloy treadplate tho!

Thanks again.

PS for anyone else who is looking to do this job also check out

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/stage1v8/TechnicalBootFloor.htm

for pictures of what is involved.

Mark

[Mark]

Yep that is the site I used before I got into doing mine. Mine was sooooo far beyond that in terms of corrosion though!

[steve_a]

useful link, I may have to do that job, along with the sills. However am I reading it wrong or did he rivet his seatbelt mounts on? EEEK!

[Mark]

Seatbelt mounts are both rivetted and bolted. They bolt down (Torx head bolts) to brackets under the floor that tie back to the chassis, but they also have a single rivet into to the floor, presumably to stop them spinning around.

Cheers

Mark

[LR90]

Brilliant, thanks Mark. That was exactly what I needed. Yes the floor needs replacing and has been removed by my mate who sold the truck to me (MOT fail). He also cut out the 2 support straps so was not sure what was missing or what they looked like till reading your post (the search function on the forum does work!). Luckily the rest of the floor and the arches are all in fine fettle and there is even a fair lip left for the new floor to sit on. I was going to use self drilling tech screws to fix the floor down since it is not structural and is covered with such a thick mat they would not be felt through the carpet. May ask another mate if he has some offcuts in Alloy treadplate tho!

Thanks again.

PS for anyone else who is looking to do this job also check out

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/stage1v8/TechnicalBootFloor.htm

for pictures of what is involved.

Mark

Mark, dragging this back to the top did you replace the floor and cross members or go the treadplate route?

I've finally removed the last of the carpet from my Disco, main floor is still intact but loadbay does have some holes. Current thoughts are cut a piece of 5bar and rivet over the top or, cut the floor out and rivet a piece of 5bar over the much larger gap (maybe with packing above any supports).

[Orgasmic Farmer]

Hi Trev

I did replace the floor in the end. Bought a panel and 2 flat supports from local land rover parts place. Quoted paddocks prices and he was able to match em. I had to weld a couple of small repair plates to the sides and a support strip along the front edge inorder to have a continous support all round for the floor panel. I then ran a bead of silicon all around the edges and across the supports and fixed the panel down with self-drilling metal to metal roofing screws (from Screwfix). I used a couple of rivets on the one support where it passes over the top of the fuel tank instead just in case. I want to sue the truck now more for farm duties and carrying dogs (I have 4 sheepdogs) so have not replace the rear seats or seat-belt mounts and am planning on lining the rear with 3mm alloy chequeplate folded to make a bulkhead with my dog guard above. I just had the MOT without seats and had no probs at all. Tester said it was sound as a pound.

BTW I removed the fuel tank and cleaned of the chassis and gave it a good painting before replacing it.

If doing it again I think I would go down the 5 bar route and fix with tech-screws again. The boot floor repair panel is such a good fit you need to spend ages removing all traces and spot welds from the old floor. I think if you cut a panel it would go down much better. Plain sheet of tin would do and have thinner tread plate over the top.!

[LR90]

Thanks for that. Think I might just go and cut it all out then and just lay a sheet of 5bar over the hole then. Edges all round are sound to lay the sheet on and it would look better than merely laying the 5bar over rusty metal.

[Mark]

I think you would have to go up in thickness to get the strength. The pressed floor panel is atually pretty strong - much more so than a plain sheet.

I didn't have any issues with cleaning up the spotwelds on the edges - mainly cos there wern't any edges left!

[LR90]

I think you would have to go up in thickness to get the strength. The pressed floor panel is atually pretty strong - much more so than a plain sheet.

I didn't have any issues with cleaning up the spotwelds on the edges - mainly cos there wern't any edges left!

Yes, understood. I think I can live with that and if not I can pull it out again an stick a couple of stiffeners under it. What I was was more concerned about was if the boot floor somehow supported the inner arches/sides but that seems not to be the case.

Still got a bit of 5bar in the garage so if its big enough that will probably define the thickness