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Pig to Start Auto EDC


keithjh

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Hi All,

Well at last after never having a problem withe the Auto with EDC, it is now a pig to start, so:-

Left overnight or for a few hours it cranks very slowly and will not go, use jump leads and its away no problems, gives the impression of a knackered battery or starter, anyway this is what i have done:-

New Starter (Bosch)

New Battery (Type 069)

New OEM Glow Plugs

Cleaned the earths, one to the starter bolt to chassis, and battery neg to chassis.

anyway left on drive yesterday afternoon went to start this morning, no go.

Any ideas before i put it out of its misery and shoot it?

Regards

Keith

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Hi All,

Well at last after never having a problem withe the Auto with EDC, it is now a pig to start, so:-

Left overnight or for a few hours it cranks very slowly and will not go, use jump leads and its away no problems, gives the impression of a knackered battery or starter, anyway this is what i have done:-

New Starter (Bosch)

New Battery (Type 069)

New OEM Glow Plugs

Cleaned the earths, one to the starter bolt to chassis, and battery neg to chassis.

anyway left on drive yesterday afternoon went to start this morning, no go.

Any ideas before i put it out of its misery and shoot it?

Regards

Hi, have you got the CHECK ENGINE light on? Does it work????? I had this on one of mine and it was the #4 injector - the 'intelegent' one. Doesn't give the computer the correct timing to start the injection process so goes to default and the truck has no power either. :blink:

Also, get one side of your jumper lead and put 1 end on the (-) of the batt and the other end on the block - maybe the lifting eye - you could ahve a bad chassis to engine earth. This would prove it if it starts better.

Oliver..

Keith

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I had the same and my findings and results can be found if you search on here but I think my final success was from taking all earth leads completely off and cleaning them with a wire brush in the drill and cleaning the metal on the vehicle with the wire brush on the drill at all points where the leads connect.

Other things which seemed to fix it (ie I thought it had fixed it then a week later it would start playing up again) were:

Cleaning the ECU connector with electrical cleaner and removing/inserting the plug.

Tweaking the pump timing slightly.

From what I can tell the problem comes from the voltage dropping too much when cranking. The starter draws more current when trying to turn over a cold engine. Stick a Multimeter across the battery before you start - it should read about 12.5v. Then get some to try starting if the voltage drops below about 10v it won't start because the Electronic Fuel Injection Pump won't have enough power to squirt the fuel.

The better the electical path is the more current can flow which will stop the voltage dropping as much. So earths and supply should be cleaned to the starter. See if that improves things failing that a bigger battery can supply more amps before the voltage drops or a second battery (which is what you are doing by jumping it) will do the same. Alternatively don't let the engine get as cold, keep it in the garage if possible or I found more success by parking the front right down by the house so it wasn't in the cold wind as much and got some shelter etc

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When its finaly running dose it charge properly, the rason I ask is that mine did the same fine one day and dead the next and it turned out to be that the alternator had gone short inside and was back draining the battery.

I know I'm not the original poster but as my problem was exactly the same I will answer and say mine charged perfectly, the voltage was also fine - I even had the same problem when leaving the battery on charge with an Optimate overnight to ensure the battery was fully topped up.

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When its finaly running dose it charge properly, the rason I ask is that mine did the same fine one day and dead the next and it turned out to be that the alternator had gone short inside and was back draining the battery.

Yes it charges at 14.2 volts

The addition of extra earth cable has made no difference

Origonal earths removed cleaned refitted

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Hi, have you got the CHECK ENGINE light on? Does it work????? I had this on one of mine and it was the #4 injector - the 'intelegent' one. Doesn't give the computer the correct timing to start the injection process so goes to default and the truck has no power either.

Also, get one side of your jumper lead and put 1 end on the (-) of the batt and the other end on the block - maybe the lifting eye - you could ahve a bad chassis to engine earth. This would prove it if it starts better.

Check engine light comes on for a few seconds then goes out

tried the extra earth plus cleaning properly the origonal ones no difference

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I almost hate to suggest this, but when you fitted the new battery did you clean the battery terminal clamps inside to bright metal before you fitted them to the battery posts?

Given that your car starts ok with jump leads, it tends to suggest you have a battery related problem.

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