ThreePointFive Posted January 6, 2009 Share Posted January 6, 2009 After trying to move the 90 this morning after a good day's offroading yesterday, it's refusing to budge. It starts just fine, and I can select gears, I've tried diff lock etc, but when putting down the hand brake, it feels like it's still on as that's the type of movement the engine straining against it gets. I think I can feel through the lever handle that the cable isn't fully releasing. Could this be due to a build up of mud in the drum that's stopping the shoes from releasing as it's now frozen, or more likely to be the cable itself? I don't think UJs etc are the issue, though they will be getting a good load of grease. Is there anything I can try without taking the handbrake apart that could work first? I am not quite confident enough to start mucking around with that sort of thing. Oh how attractive X Brakes look right now! any thoughts welcome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juz Posted January 6, 2009 Share Posted January 6, 2009 Sounds to me (as a novice) that teh brake shoes are frozen to the drum. Maybe pouring hot water on the drum and a little tap with a mallet might free it. Juz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denviks Posted January 6, 2009 Share Posted January 6, 2009 i am gonna go with muddy water in the hand brake drum that is now nicely frozen solid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave W Posted January 6, 2009 Share Posted January 6, 2009 The mechanism is seized inside the brake. It uses a plunger that, as it is pulled out of the drum, expands the brake shoes and, after wading in mud, this tends to seize up. You can normally release them by using a pry bar or big screwdriver to push the mechanism back, basically give the handbrake cable a hand as it can't exert much force at all when taking the brake off. Once released you really need to strip the mechanism, clean and oil it... or just take it off and replace it with an x-brake. Running an auto and, hence, rarely using the transmission brake, I used to have to do this on a regular basis and following scrutineering regularly had to crawl underneath to lever the mechanism back off as scrutineering was the only time the brake got used ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Neale Posted January 6, 2009 Share Posted January 6, 2009 Sam, Got a rubber mallet or something similar? Grovel underneath and use it all the way around the handbrake drum - this "should!" free off the shoes. The advice you've been given about assisting the mechanism is right too. The drum will be full of silt etc which will have set (and probably frozen) now. if it's any consolation, I was working on a 90 yesterday - took me over an hour to get the drum off to clean it out.... Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreePointFive Posted January 6, 2009 Author Share Posted January 6, 2009 I should have waited a while and not been so hasty before trying to move the car - I put it in low 1st and gently applied drive, it gave a clunk then broke free. I'm thinking from the above advice that wasn't the best thing to have done.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lansalot Posted January 6, 2009 Share Posted January 6, 2009 I had to do this on my old Manta on several occasions. As far as I'm aware, about the only risk is ripping the linings off the clutch plate or the brake drum. A whack on the drum sorted my 90 out when this happened though. The effect should be the same of course - movement Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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