MikeAK Posted January 27, 2009 Share Posted January 27, 2009 Hi all, My '89 3.5 RR classic suddenly lost power today, idles and drives at low speed/throttle openings but struggles to rev or pull up hills. Outside the RR there is a loud (and I mean loud) whirring noise from the area of the fuel tank. So I am thinking duff fuel pump . As I've never taken a tank out of one of these, I have a few questions. How easy is it to get the tank out? Is it feasable to cut an access panel in the load space floor? If yes to above anyone know how big and where? Will a pump from the 3.9 RR or a discovery fit? Thanks Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave W Posted January 27, 2009 Share Posted January 27, 2009 Not being funny but how much fuel have you got in it ? Normally a loud whirring indicates the pump is out of the fuel so if you're just going off the fuel gauge it'd be worth just checking it manually somehow. There should already be an access panel in the floor, there was on our old '89 RR although ours was a bit of a changeover model so maybe that was a late feature. It might be possible to cut an access panel if it's not there already BUT you'd have to be extremely accurate on depth and I'd be worried about using power tools around the top of the tanks as it's not unusual for a vehicle of that age to have porous metal fuel pipes. Removing the tank isn't too difficult IF the LR gods are on your side and the nuts and bolts all come undone, the pipes around the filler can be fiddly with the various vent pipes. It's unlikely it'll be on it's original tank so you might be lucky ! An RRC 3.9 fuel pump will work fine, Disco ones too but not the plastic tank version. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveRK Posted January 27, 2009 Share Posted January 27, 2009 These dimensions were what i used to replace the floor in the back of mine. The width of 1080 is slightly less than the gap between the wheel arches and the front (top edge in the picture) aligns with the front edge of the floor at the point where it slopes down. This may not relate to earlier models to no responsibilty accepted etc, etc, Visio_Rear_Floor_1.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeAK Posted January 27, 2009 Author Share Posted January 27, 2009 Hi Thanks for the reply. Should have said I put £20 worth in on the way home just to be sure there was some in, it made no difference. Can't see an access panel on mine but the load area is covered in some rubbery stuff about 20mm thick that seems to be extremely well stuck down. Agree about using power tools near the tank, thats why I was wondering if anyone had done it and had dimensions. Can the later plastic tank and pump be fitted in plce of the metal tank? Thanks Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeAK Posted January 27, 2009 Author Share Posted January 27, 2009 Thanks for the diagram SteveRK. You must have posted while I was replying to DaveW post. Any idea how much clearance between the floor and the top of the tank and pipes Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave W Posted January 27, 2009 Share Posted January 27, 2009 If there is an access panel, it's under the thick rubbery stuff. You used to be able to get plastic tanks that were a straight replacement for the "multi-vent" tank but no idea if they are still available. There was a design flaw which meant most of the metal tanks of that era rotted out in the first 5 years of their life so there was a huge market for replacements at the time. It wouldn't be too big a job to fit a Disco plastic tank as they are the same size but I'm not sure how compatible things like the fuel level sender would be. The filler pipe may also be a different size which would complicate things - depends on which filler type you have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted January 27, 2009 Share Posted January 27, 2009 Before you get too carried away with pumps & tanks, the pump will also whine if it's either seeing a stuck open fuel pressure regulator (so tonnes of flow but no resistance, so it spins flat out) or a stuck closed one / blocked fuel filter (no flow, lots of resistance so it works it's bits off and hits 100PSI+). A clear inline filter spliced into the return line (from the FPR) will show you if fuel is flowing round or not - there should be a steady stream at idle. If it's gushing past like niagra or nothing is moving at all then you have a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeAK Posted January 27, 2009 Author Share Posted January 27, 2009 Thanks for the info FridgeFreezer. I've got a couple of regulators in the garage (somewhere). I'll try one of those tomorrow before I finally condem the pump. I think it is the pump though because the noise is very loud and sounding rougher the longer it runs. I've also had a crawl underneath just now and put my hand on the tank and there is considerable vibration as well. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeAK Posted January 28, 2009 Author Share Posted January 28, 2009 Hi, again Tried both spare regulators today and put a new filter on as well to be sure it wasn't blocked since I've never changed it before . No different so I think it must be the pump. Anyone know of a LR breakers in East Lancs, Darwen/Blackburn area Thanks again Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_d Posted January 28, 2009 Share Posted January 28, 2009 Have you tried disconnecting the fuel rail and piping the supply pipe to a fuel can to see if you have any flow? If you have flow you could then test the pressure. Have you also replaced/bypassed the fuel filter? Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gelf Posted January 28, 2009 Share Posted January 28, 2009 i cut a hole in my boot floor....... makes it much easier. just pop rivet in back with a couple of pieces of flat steel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveRK Posted January 28, 2009 Share Posted January 28, 2009 The clearence is not enough to even think about using a jig saw. Piccy showing what a plastic tank Rangie looks like. The fuel pipes should run frowards from the pump fitting and will be within 1/2" of the underside of the floor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeAK Posted January 29, 2009 Author Share Posted January 29, 2009 Thanks for the warning and pics SteveRK. Think I will drop the tank to be sure I don't damage anything and cut an access panel in the floor while it out. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_d Posted January 29, 2009 Share Posted January 29, 2009 I had to replace my RRC tank as it was leaking. If you disturb your tank I would almost guarantee it will start to leak. The problem is the support strap that runs under it traps moisture and promotes rust. All the time it is pulled up tight it will stay rusted together but when you undo it all the strap will try to part company and may start a leak. If it were me I would take the dimensions you have been given and drill a hole in each corner of your proposed hatch. You can then gauge the clearance below with a drill bit or piece of wire. If deep enough use a jigsaw and cut 40mm along both edges from the left rear corner hole. Bend up the cut corner so you can get a small mirror in and check that continuing to cut will nor take you through a pipe or the wiring. The left rear is the best place to start as the fuel pipes run forward, the breather runs to the offside and wiring to nearside. The battery will have been disconnected...... Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeAK Posted January 31, 2009 Author Share Posted January 31, 2009 Right, had a look at this today. The rubber/foam had been stuck down by evostick or similar presumably by a previous owner. Fortunatley it was only stuck about 75mm around the edge of each piece, still took some getting off though. When it was off it revealed a fairly bad infestation of tin worm around the wheelarch edges and the edges supporting the corrugated floor . The loadspace floor is a corrugated aluminium panel pop riveted in so I just driled out the rivets and took the whole panel out. Will cut an access hatch in it while its out. Changed the pump and took it for a quick drive, no problems so thats the pump sorted. Quite noisy with no floor in! Looks like I've now got a couple of days cutting out the bad stuff and welding in new. Ho-hum thats Rangerovers Thanks for all the advice. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveRK Posted February 1, 2009 Share Posted February 1, 2009 Thanks for the feed back - glad thats sorted it - Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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