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Td5 immobiliser problem - no start .

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A friend in the trade had a 01 Td5 parked up for some time . Charged battery - had lights flashing all over the place , no indicators , dash lights came on when door opened , starter engaged of it's own accord etc., etc ., :( ; removed fuse box and column switches , dried everything out so all lights etc behaving properly now .

BUT he can't start the Disco - the little light on the key fob is behaving as it should but fob is having no effect either on locking or unlocking . Unlocks with the key but the red light on dash continues to flash so no start .

(1) am I correct in saying the D2 doesn't have a 'spider ' ?

(2) could the battery in the fob be so weak that it puts on little light in fob but won't do anything else ?

(3) is there an immobiliser ECU etc that could be causing problems ?

(4) can the immobiliser be disabled/bypassed so he can start the Disco ? - just like to know if it can be done even though it can't be posted here obviously .

(5) do the D2 have a code that can be entered using the key as in the D1 ( even though it never seemed to work) ?

Any help greatly appreciated as he doesn't have much experience of Discoveries ? He has a Launch X431 - would that help to check out anything ?

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A friend in the trade had a 01 Td5 parked up for some time . Charged battery - had lights flashing all over the place , no indicators , dash lights came on when door opened , starter engaged of it's own accord etc., etc ., :( ; removed fuse box and column switches , dried everything out so all lights etc behaving properly now .

BUT he can't start the Disco - the little light on the key fob is behaving as it should but fob is having no effect either on locking or unlocking . Unlocks with the key but the red light on dash continues to flash so no start .

(1) am I correct in saying the D2 doesn't have a 'spider ' ?

(2) could the battery in the fob be so weak that it puts on little light in fob but won't do anything else ?

(3) is there an immobiliser ECU etc that could be causing problems ?

(4) can the immobiliser be disabled/bypassed so he can start the Disco ? - just like to know if it can be done even though it can't be posted here obviously .

(5) do the D2 have a code that can be entered using the key as in the D1 ( even though it never seemed to work) ?

Any help greatly appreciated as he doesn't have much experience of Discoveries ? He has a Launch X431 - would that help to check out anything ?

1. YES

2. YES easy

3. YES it's part of the alarm

4. NO no directly

5. Don't know, the owners Handbook will tell you but I would think so it is an emergency feature.

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5) Yes similar idea and described in the handbook. It works fine on the D1 if you do it right and the door switches ain't broken ;)

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Thanks for replies - will be trying to get it going over the weekend.

Handbook not in the car so he'll have to give the main dlr a ring about the EKA I think it's called .

THinking about the D1 I suppose part of the problem was the key is never used in the door lock until there is a problem . Even on my D2 now I have never used the key to open it - think I'll get some practice while everything is working .

Will post back when it's running again . ;)

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From the workshop manual:-

Emergency key access

If the handset fails to operate, the engine can be remobilised by using the key to enter a unique four digit Emergency Key Access (EKA) code.

There are three configurations for emergency key access:

* EKA not active (no immobiliser fitted).

* EKA active.

* EKA with super locking on receiving good passive remobilisation exciter coil signal.

The code is recorded on the security information card and is entered as follows:

1. Using the key, turn the driver's door lock to the UNLOCK position and hold in this position for at least 5 seconds. An audible warning is then emitted to indicate that the body control unit is ready to accept the code. Return the key to the centre position. It is now possible to use the key to enter the separate numerical values of the four digits that make up the EKA code.

2. Enter the first digit of the code. If the first digit is 4, turn the key to the UNLOCK position 4 times. Ensure the key is fully returned to the centre position after each turn of the key.

3. Enter the second digit of the code. If the second digit is 3, turn the key to the LOCK position 3 times. Ensure the key is fully returned to the centre position after each turn of the key.

4. Enter the third digit of the code. If the third digit is 2, turn the key to the UNLOCK position twice. Ensure the key is fully returned to the centre position after each turn of the key.

5. Enter the fourth digit of the code. If the fourth digit is 1, turn the key to the LOCK position once. Ensure the key is fully returned to the centre position after each turn of the key.

6. Finally, turn the key to the UNLOCK position and back to the centre position, a double bleep will indicate that the code has been entered correctly. A single bleep indicates that the code has been entered incorrectly.Then, before opening the door, wait 5 minutes for the alarm and immobiliser to be de-activated. During the 5 minute wait for the alarm and immobiliser to be de-activated, the alarm indicator LED in the instrument pack continues to flash (one flash every 2 seconds). DO NOT OPEN THE DOOR OR ATTEMPT TO ENTER THE CAR until the full delay period has elapsed.When the 5 minute wait has elapsed, the alarm indicator LED stops flashing. Immediately open the door, insert the key in the ignition switch and turn the switch to position II. If the ignition switch is not turned to position II within 30 seconds of the end of the 5 minute wait, the engine is automatically immobilised again.

The EKA code will not be recognised if there is an interval of 10 seconds or more between key turns or if the key is held turned for 5 seconds or more during the procedure.

In some system configurations a successful EKA code entry is indicated by the audible warning device pulsing twice for a period of 50 ms on, 200 ms off. The theft deterrent LED is switched on for 1 second, all doors unlock, the alarm disarms and the vehicle is remobilised allowing the engine to start.

If an incorrect code is entered, an audible warning is emitted and the procedure must be repeated. Up to a maximum of 10 attempts to enter the code is possible. After 10 attempts, the BCU will not allow any further codes to be entered for a period of 10 minutes.

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Seeing this I'm not surprised the EKA didn't work on the few occasions we tried it . I had no idea that times etc were so critical - especially the 5 min wait before opening the door.

Thanks for the detailed explanation - it would take me a while to type that much . ;)

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He took out the fusebox from under the dash again and took off plugs etc then put fusebox back and - EVERYTHING WORKED .

Key fob operated the central locking as it should and Disco started and ran perfectly . Did this a few times and then left it for a while .

When he tried again it was back to its old tricks - key fob wouldn't do anything , no start etc.

So it appears the fusebox and its connections are the problem -

(1) is there any particular spray etc. he could apply to improve the contacts ?

(2) anyone know which of the plugs on the fusebox has connections to immobiliser system etc so he could give those connections particular attention ? :(

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had a simlar problem with my disco 1 and funnaly a celio a few years back after i drove it out the show room and the aa man told me a very simple solution which may help

open the door turn key in ignition take the key out slowly (to fast dosnt give it chance to disingage propperly ) then pop the bonnit take off the negative battery lead and leave it off for 20secs then reconnect lock the doors with the fob then unlock and start the key when putting key in the lock do it slowly and turn it one stage at a time

this hole processes resets the imobilser

my disco1 was parked up for 2 weeks in the cold and damp when i came to start it 2am all the alram and lights and stuff kicked in wouldnt start did this and it kicked in frist time ?? worth a try

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I've just re-read your post and it sounds like you had water in the fusebox - if that is the case the fusebox is probably f***ed - it isn't "just a fusebox" but has something called an "IDM" inside ("ignorant dumb machine" or something...) which is like a secondary ECU which talks to the body control unit and does various functions that are fed through the fuses in the passenger compartment fusebox. If the electrics are haywire the IDM is probably having a fit, it does nasty expensive stuff like holding the door lock solenoids closed and burning them out which wipes out a few hundred quid to get it fixed. If you take it out of the vehicle and pull it to bits its usually fairly obvious if there is water damage inside, but if there is it'll probably be time for a new one, all the wet ones I have seen have never worked properly again.

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Thanks for replies - will pass them on .The D1 system was a bit different from the D2 but it is worth a try .

And yes bogmonster - when he took out the fusebox the first time it had a lot of moisture on it . And he did say that he couldn't get at all parts to dry / clean them properly . He also commented that as he put it ' it was no ordinary fusebox' in that it had quite a bit of circuitry and had like 2 plates close to each other with no apparent way of getting between them .

I'm afraid your description would indicate the fusebox is as you politely put it f***ed - and could cause expensive damage .

He's had the Disco for sale for quite a while during which time it gave no problems - now he has a customer anxious to buy and the Disco is playing hell :angry: . Looks like a new fusebox would be his best option .

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Yep that sounds like time for a new box to me if its been wet. I just read the workshop manual and the IDM ("Intelligent Driver Module"...) does doors, windows, wipers, heated window, indicator operation (rather than a conventional clicky indicator relay), foglights and yes does appear to have something to do with immobilisation as when you change the fusebox it needs to be resynchronised with the BCU (body control unit).

One thing I did find was this, if the problem is immobilisation then it could be worth a try!

"The IDM communicates with the BCU and the instrument pack via a serial interface. If the BCU or the IDM is replaced,

the communications link between the two units has to be re-established. This can be done either by switching on the

ignition and leaving it on for five minutes, or by using TestBook. The vehicle immobilisation will remain active until the

communications link between the BCU and IDM has been re-established."

I don't know if this applies to taking the IDM out and putting the same one back in, or just to fitting a new one, but it might be worth trying leaving it with the ignition on for a while in case the synchronisation has been lost.

The link between the BCU and IDM seems to be a digital signal rather than just a straight "shove 12 volts up it" signal so I doubt it is something that you can test with a meter.

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Due to the way it fails intermittently he feels sure now that the fusebox is the problem in view of what the IDM controls .

He will try leaving the ignition on for a while tomorrow - could be lucky .

The main dlr has quoted €400 for a new fusebox - a car dismantler has 3 Td5's broken and reckons €100 but he doesn't know anything about how a SH one will have to be setup to work etc . or even will it work

Can a fusebox be transferred or will it have to be taken to a main dlr to be setup ?

Is a second hand unit a big risk - could it also be affected by damp ?

Thanks for all your help so far - Land Rovers are thin on the ground around here and so is information on them ; this forum is better than any manual . ;)

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Easy enough to check - before you pay up, pull the plastic back plate off the fusebox and look at the circuit board, if its been wet while powered up there will be almost certainly be rotten green corroded carp all over the circuit board, it usually appears down in one corner. I nearly took a photo of one I pulled to bits today to show what it looks like, but I didn't :rolleyes:

I am pretty sure (like 99%) that you can use an IDM out of another vehicle if you just follow the synchronisation process outlined above.

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