poohbear Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 Hi all, been driving with the Tdi for a couple of days now (was a TD) - great power and starts first turn, usually without plugs even in the cold! Just got a niggle about a noise When it's started from cold it makes a right old clatter - piston slap/ big ends perhaps? which eases as the lump warms up. You can hardly hear the engine on overun at all but the clatter (it's not quite a knock) is always there under power. It's still got the original oil and filter at the moment as I didn't want to fork out on new fluids to find out that the engine was an old knacker. Once I've replaced this I'm guessing that the next stop is valve clearances and then onto big ends? The only other thing I have noticed is that the oil light takes a fraction longer to go out on start up - would this indicated worn big ends or should I be looking at the pressure regulator? the only other thing that comes to mind is that the timing might be out causing detonation - it did blow black smoke under acceleration when first fitted but that seems to have eased since Friday. Any insights greatly received as always. Dave. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markyboy Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 Hi all,been driving with the Tdi for a couple of days now (was a TD) - great power and starts first turn, usually without plugs even in the cold! Just got a niggle about a noise When it's started from cold it makes a right old clatter - piston slap/ big ends perhaps? which eases as the lump warms up. You can hardly hear the engine on overun at all but the clatter (it's not quite a knock) is always there under power. It's still got the original oil and filter at the moment as I didn't want to fork out on new fluids to find out that the engine was an old knacker. Once I've replaced this I'm guessing that the next stop is valve clearances and then onto big ends? The only other thing I have noticed is that the oil light takes a fraction longer to go out on start up - would this indicated worn big ends or should I be looking at the pressure regulator? the only other thing that comes to mind is that the timing might be out causing detonation - it did blow black smoke under acceleration when first fitted but that seems to have eased since Friday. Any insights greatly received as always. Dave. Could just be of of those "they all do that guvnor" moments. As its name suggests, the Tdi is a direct injection engine and the TD isn't. Direct injection diesel engines tend to have more of diesel "knock" than indirect. If it was big ends/ mains, I'd expect it to get worse as the engine warms due to the oil getting thinner. When you say "the oil light takes a fraction longer to go out on start up", in comparison to what? The TD? Different engine so it may be normal. Could you get hold of an oil pressure gauge to check your actual oil pressure? It's probably worth changing the oil and filter anyway, this could make a huge difference. Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poohbear Posted February 10, 2009 Author Share Posted February 10, 2009 Thanks Mark, a reassuring voice is probably all that was needed - oil and filter will get done in due course. It doesn't help that my last two vehicles before the 90 were both Mazdas with amazingly refined engines - and associated high service/maintenance costs. I'm starting to get used to the a sound I've associated previously with valve bounce being the norm. D. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 change the oil & filter, reset the valve gaps [same as on any 4 cylinder engine -- rule of 9] Tdi's have a distinct sound of their own & will be a bit noisier than the old TD engine. my oil light goes out very quickly after start, maybe the switch connection or the switch itself is poor, you can use the TD switch as they are the same [as is the oil filter head casting] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poohbear Posted February 10, 2009 Author Share Posted February 10, 2009 thanks Western, can't help having that feeling of trepidation that the lump of greasy metal you brought off some old geezer in his garden in the dark and rain turns out to be a lump of scrap Still - the truck has had an amazing new lease of life, the Tdi really is worth the effort to shoehorn in Although I would recommend doing the job in warmer months. Wish I'd got a picture of me trying to prime the fuel system with a knackered pump, by torchlight, in the snow Just got all those other jobs to get on with now - seems weird not coming home from work and climbing straight into cold overalls Dave. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason110 Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 just to add my 2 pence - my 200tdi, retro fitted to my 110, sounds a bit rough when started from cold, but once warmed up is much smoother than the old N/A unit it had in. oil light - mine goes out about 2-3 seconds after she catches. jase Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poohbear Posted February 10, 2009 Author Share Posted February 10, 2009 thanks Western, can't help having that feeling of trepidation that the lump of greasy metal you brought off some old geezer in his garden in the dark and rain turns out to be a lump of scrap Still - the truck has had an amazing new lease of life, the Tdi really is worth the effort to shoehorn in Although I would recommend doing the job in warmer months. Wish I'd got a picture of me trying to prime the fuel system with a knackered pump, by torchlight, in the snow. Just got all those other jobs to get on with now - seems weird not coming home from work and climbing straight into cold overalls . While I'm at it - and bearing in mind that I really don't want to fix what isn't broke, what other service jobs should I do on the Tdi considering the mileage and history is unknown. I have already done: Timing belt and tensioner. Timing cover dust seal (the timing chest was dry as a bone and only had dust in it so it seemed unecessary to do he other seals) Clutch Rear crank oil seal I have had to seal the drain hole in the bottom of the flywheel housing as this was obscurred by the bottom of the engine on the Tdi - do I need to re-drill the housing to re-instate a drain hole? I can use the inspection hole on the top for a breather, as long as the crank seal holds I'll be alright Dave. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 the flywheel housing drain shouldn't be obscured by the engine, which housing did you use ? I'm guessing the Discovery version. can you add a photo, as that doesn't sound right. provided it's running quite happily there isn't much else you need to change, only things that you may want to check is the valve gaps 0.20mm cold replace the fuel filter & air filter element. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poohbear Posted February 10, 2009 Author Share Posted February 10, 2009 I used the original TD flywheel & housing where the drain is to the front (in relation to vehicle). Hope the picture make sense. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 I remember now, the housing drain/wading plug is facing forward so obscured by the sump, might be worth adding a drain hole & tapping it to suit the Tdi style of blanking bolt [same as on the bottom of timing case] & breather up top would be a fine idea Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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