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Rear door doesn't shut very well


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Hi,

My back door requires an extra shove to shut it fully and therefore to lock it.

I was wondering if this is usual on an old set of hinges or whether it's usually due to the lock not being lined up properly with the door frame.

Can this be remedied by moving the striker? (please correct me if thats the wrong name for the bar on the door frame)

Thanks

Steve

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Hi,

My back door requires an extra shove to shut it fully and therefore to lock it.

I was wondering if this is usual on an old set of hinges or whether it's usually due to the lock not being lined up properly with the door frame.

Can this be remedied by moving the striker? (please correct me if thats the wrong name for the bar on the door frame)

Thanks

Steve

My td5 had that disease so I bought 3 new bolts on ebay for £3 plus postage and cured the problem of the lock at the same time.

Graham.

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Thats the kit I've got (about 18 months ago) and not put on yet. Graham - Do you remove each hinge in turn and

replace the pins ?? I must get a swing-away at some time - funds permitting, to take the weight of a BFG M/T

off the back door.

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Thats the kit I've got (about 18 months ago) and not put on yet. Graham - Do you remove each hinge in turn and

replace the pins ?? I must get a swing-away at some time - funds permitting, to take the weight of a BFG M/T

off the back door.

I undid the bolt from the top hinge then undid the two bolts on on the upper half of the hinge removed them and lifted of the top part of the hinge bringing the bolt with it. I then undid the nuts on the other two bolts, disconected the tie bar on the inside and lifted of the door. the rest is self explantary.

Graham.

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  • 1 month later...

Right, I've fitted some new rear hinge bolts after some (read plenty) of drilling out the old components and plenty of swearing.

The door now shuts a lot better and swings nice and smooth without a lot of the sqealing.

But, it still requires a decent final shove to get it to close fully.

I've climbed int he back to see whats happening and it seems to close and engage the latch fine but theres a bit of movement and required a sharp pull for it to fully close.

The problem is that that final shove seems to wedge it in place but the first bump in the road dislodges the wedge and it goes back to banging around.

Any more advice?

Is there any adjustments that can be done on the latch so that the movement can be taken out?

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The easiest way to change the hinge pivot components is to disconnect the check arm, then take the nuts off of the pivot screws and lift the door off. Assembly is the reverse. I've never had to drill anything doing it this way. :blink:

Mo

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Well I've been out and adjusted what I can and it now locks ok but I can't seem to take up any slack on the latch.

There is a wedge type of contraption just below that doesn't seem to do anything.

Whats the correct way to adjust the striker?

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The easiest way to change the hinge pivot components is to disconnect the check arm, then take the nuts off of the pivot screws and lift the door off. Assembly is the reverse. I've never had to drill anything doing it this way. :blink:

Mo

Mo,

What needed to be drilled was one of the old hinge bolts and brass balls and one of the springs. They had rusted into the relative section of the hinge.

Once these were out the new ones went in ok

My hinge bolts were well and truly knackered

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I am not sure if the kit on ebay is the same but paddocks sell the same looking bolts

http://www.paddockspares.com/pp/SERIES/Bod.../11A_hinge.html

I wonder if someone knows if they are different

I have bought them for my rear door and they are cheaper than the kit on ebay which sometimes reach £10

Anyone know

Ed

Ed, bought they ones from ebay and theought they looked a bit smaller than my old ones but they fitted the hinges as the previous ones once they were all out and the hinge pivot holes cleaned up.

All worked a treat and was done relatively quickly bearing in mind some of the old pivot pins were so rusted they had to be drilled.

Mine were probably in for 20 years before they've been changed.

The advice on here is spot on though, I took the top of the top hinge off the door as the gutter gets in the way and then undone the nuts from the other 2 pivot pins (or rather watched them fall off when approached by a spanner) and then lift the door off.

Mine cost me a quid each and a couple fo quid postage. Theres's a guy that does them on a buy it now for £1

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Well I've been out and adjusted what I can and it now locks ok but I can't seem to take up any slack on the latch.

There is a wedge type of contraption just below that doesn't seem to do anything.

Whats the correct way to adjust the striker?

the wedge bit on the door should have a reciever [called a dovetail] on the body, these carry the load from the door lock to the body when the spare wheel is door mounted.

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