manxrover Posted April 22, 2009 Share Posted April 22, 2009 Hi all I have just joined this forum to try and gain some information on my Range Rover. I am loosing quite a lot of coolant, but no sign of a leaks ??. When the engine is ticking over everything seems to be ok, but if I go for a run on returning I find that I have lost oil from the dipstick, and there seems to be steam coming from the breather pipe and from the engine iol filler cap. HEAD, or HEADGASKET ??. Regards Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_d Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 Either or both. A compression test for starters. A gas test (block tester) of the gases in the coolant header tank will show if combustion gases are getting into the coolant. Seems likely you are heading for a strip down. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Hiatt Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 Seems likely you are heading for a strip down.Steve Or a couple of tins of wondarweld Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manxrover Posted April 23, 2009 Author Share Posted April 23, 2009 Or a couple of tins of wondarweld Does this stuff realy work ??. Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Hiatt Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 Yes it does, but it doesn't mix too well with antifreeze. As older cars get worth less or if there is a time constraint it's worth trying Radweld or in more serious cases Wondarweld. A friend who uses my workshop put some WW in his fathers newly purchased £800 306 that had a significant head gasket leak three years ago and it's been no problem. I have a Cummins engined lorry that developed a fair leak on the head gasket waterway and a commercial variant of Radweld cured that. I didn't think that would work but I needed to use the lorry so I hoped it would last a day or so, that was about six months ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manxrover Posted April 24, 2009 Author Share Posted April 24, 2009 Yes it does, but it doesn't mix too well with antifreeze.As older cars get worth less or if there is a time constraint it's worth trying Radweld or in more serious cases Wondarweld. A friend who uses my workshop put some WW in his fathers newly purchased £800 306 that had a significant head gasket leak three years ago and it's been no problem. I have a Cummins engined lorry that developed a fair leak on the head gasket waterway and a commercial variant of Radweld cured that. I didn't think that would work but I needed to use the lorry so I hoped it would last a day or so, that was about six months ago. Thanks, I will give a go as I have been quoted £1000 for the head gasket repairs. Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QTdarren Posted April 24, 2009 Share Posted April 24, 2009 there was some stuff used for the good ole 4.6 v8 , i used it in my racer with good results , only thing with it , you must follow the insructions exactly, i will find out its name and repost it here , got to be worth a go imo . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Sparkes Posted April 25, 2009 Share Posted April 25, 2009 there was some stuff used for the good ole 4.6 v8 , i used it in my racer with good results , only thing with it , you must follow the instructions exactly, i will find out its name and repost it here , got to be worth a go imo . Kalimex 'Seal-up' is the product (mentioned by QTdarren) used on the slipped liner petrol engines. This DOES NOT mix with antifreeze, which is why you have to follow the instructions. Kalimex 'K-seal' does mix with anti-freeze, and may be suitable in this instance. Both may be available off a certain auction site, but will probably be cheaper from Kalimex themselves, or from a local stockist http://www.kalimex.silkhosts.org.uk/acatal...ctRange.php#a23 shows the Kalimex price. Look round the site for a 'find your stockist' feature. Locally, one in Matlock quoted £10.00, one in Clay Cross charged £8.80. Good Luck, and let us know how you get on, thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manxrover Posted April 25, 2009 Author Share Posted April 25, 2009 Kalimex 'Seal-up' is the product (mentioned by QTdarren) used on the slipped liner petrol engines. This DOES NOT mix with antifreeze, which is why you have to follow the instructions.Kalimex 'K-seal' does mix with anti-freeze, and may be suitable in this instance. Both may be available off a certain auction site, but will probably be cheaper from Kalimex themselves, or from a local stockist http://www.kalimex.silkhosts.org.uk/acatal...ctRange.php#a23 shows the Kalimex price. Look round the site for a 'find your stockist' feature. Locally, one in Matlock quoted £10.00, one in Clay Cross charged £8.80. Good Luck, and let us know how you get on, thanks. I have ordered some K Seal, so I will see what happens and post the results, fingers crossed. Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QTdarren Posted April 25, 2009 Share Posted April 25, 2009 nice one , follow exactly what it says on the instructions, compleatly flush engine and rad out of any a/freeze, disconect from heater ,flushed mine for an hour or so, may have been ott hey ho ,lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheltie50 Posted April 27, 2009 Share Posted April 27, 2009 Mine did this , then went on to fill the sump with diesel, I changed the oil before realising what was going on, it blew up on a motorway, 3 cracked pistons later I fitted an engine from a BMW 525 TD. lots of fun and some money later I had the P38 running until the electronics died, Im still working on the *** thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manxrover Posted April 28, 2009 Author Share Posted April 28, 2009 I have ordered some K Seal, so I will see what happens and post the results, fingers crossed.Brian Hi Guys K SEAL part one. Got the K Seal not the one I ordered, this one is not antifreeze frendly so had to flush the system first. run the engine upto temp. After about 10 minutes the breather from the rocker cover was like an eletric kettle with the amount of steam coming from it, then inserted the K Seal and waited and waited then after about 30 mins the steam subsided to a trickle. I was unhappy about the coolant temp as it seemed not to get very warm, so I took the RR for a short drive, no oil blowing water level dropped a tad. Went for a second longer run, no oil, no water loss, just drained the system to allow to stand for a min. 4 hours recomended 12 hours to cure, so it says on the tin. So as part one goes its stopped whatever leak I had cracks, or even the head gasket. I will post part two when I have refilled the system and gave here a good run. Regards Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Sparkes Posted April 28, 2009 Share Posted April 28, 2009 You probably have it planned, but just in case ... My understanding from your first post was that coolant was getting into the oil. (I took "lost oil from the dipstick" to be coolant being steamed off the oil down the exhaust, I had that happen in a Mini). Therefore don't forget to change the oil and filter when the seal seems to be effective. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manxrover Posted April 28, 2009 Author Share Posted April 28, 2009 You probably have it planned, but just in case ...My understanding from your first post was that coolant was getting into the oil. (I took "lost oil from the dipstick" to be coolant being steamed off the oil down the exhaust, I had that happen in a Mini). Therefore don't forget to change the oil and filter when the seal seems to be effective. Cheers Hi The oil is fine not water or sludge build up, nice and brown only done 200 mile since last change, but will take your advice and change it again, to make sure. Regards Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manxrover Posted April 29, 2009 Author Share Posted April 29, 2009 HiThe oil is fine not water or sludge build up, nice and brown only done 200 mile since last change, but will take your advice and change it again, to make sure. Regards Brian Hi Guys As promised part two. Refilled the coolant system, and took the RR out for a 30 mile run, stopping every 5 miles or so to check for any signs of oil blowing from the dipstick, after the second stop I found a very small amount of oil had leaked from the filler cap, cleaned it off and caried on. the steam coming from the rocker breather had almost stopped, just a light plume of oil smoke. On reaching home giving the RR some hammer over the last five miles I found no sign of any leaks from the cooland, level still the same, no oil had leaked from the dip stick, and no smoke of any kind. The only major difference I found was, before I treated the engine with Kalimex the coolant hoses wher rock solid, but now after 30 miles they seem softer can be depressed with not a lot of pressure. So the over all result was a sucsess, so to sum up the problem must have been the head gasket allowing exhaust gasses into the coolant and coolant leaking into the exhaust, thats why there was no signs of leaking coolant, allowing the build up of pressure in the crankcase and the only escape was the dipstick. Many thanks for the tips and advice from the forum. Regards Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_d Posted April 29, 2009 Share Posted April 29, 2009 I'm happy for your final result but concerned that the crankcase over-pressure was showing at the dipstick. There should be a crankcase ventilation system of some sort probably going back into the inlet somewhere. I would suggest you check this and make sure it is not gunged up. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manxrover Posted April 29, 2009 Author Share Posted April 29, 2009 I'm happy for your final result but concerned that the crankcase over-pressure was showing at the dipstick. There should be a crankcase ventilation system of some sort probably going back into the inlet somewhere. I would suggest you check this and make sure it is not gunged up.Steve Hi Steve Yes I checked this before I concluded it was the head or headgasket that was causing the pressure. I have replaced the flame trap and filter as it was all gunged up with a grey oiley sludge. Regards Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheltie50 Posted April 29, 2009 Share Posted April 29, 2009 IT'S A MIRACLE !!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Hiatt Posted April 29, 2009 Share Posted April 29, 2009 Many thanks for the tips and advice from the forum.Regards Brian No problem, that will be £999, and you still saved a pound Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manxrover Posted April 29, 2009 Author Share Posted April 29, 2009 No problem, that will be £999, and you still saved a pound Hi If I ever bump into you I will buy a pint or two. Regards Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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