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Air Filter Canister Assembly


tuko
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Just finished fabricating and mounting the air filter canister mount on the new motor (300Di) in my series 3. The mount is bolted fast where you would normally find the air conditioning compressor on this engine.

After watching the film, what do you think? Is there too much vibration in the canister or is that normal on a 300Tdi that's found on a Defender? It was a waste of time to look at the air filter assembly in the Disco as the filter housing is totally different and is mounted to the inner fender.

Should I remove the rubber mounts or should they stay? I'm wondering if this vibration is a means of filtration so that the dust particles don't hold fast on the filter ??

Cheers,

Todd.

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Just finished fabricating and mounting the air filter canister mount on the new motor (300Di) in my series 3. The mount is bolted fast where you would normally find the air conditioning compressor on this engine.

After watching the film, what do you think? Is there too much vibration in the canister or is that normal on a 300Tdi that's found on a Defender? It was a waste of time to look at the air filter assembly in the Disco as the filter housing is totally different and is mounted to the inner fender.

Should I remove the rubber mounts or should they stay? I'm wondering if this vibration is a means of filtration so that the dust particles don't hold fast on the filter ??

Cheers,

Todd.

Looks like it will be very subject to metal fatigue.

I am looking at a tdi200 conversion and was going to fit the water header thank there, perhaps that might suit you?

G.

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The expansion tank is already mounted just ahead of the air filter canister, I think you can see it in the vid.

Todd.

I could see it. What I was kind of suggesting was that you could swap them. Is the 300 a Tdi or a DI, I can't remember. If it's a Di maybe you could refit the oil bath, which takes less real estate, being upright.

Regards,

G

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Your comments here I find slightly contradictory "The mount is bolted fast where you would normally find the air conditioning compressor on this engine" suggests a solid mounting, but "Should I remove the rubber mounts " says there is rubber in there somewhere.

Could do with more light on the mountings, but looking at the video I've concluded you have a solid base mount on the engine, with the filter assembly rubber mounted to that solid base mount.

If it's 'just' the filter housing moving on the rubber, I'd say you are OK, but the rubbers may wear rapidly.

Before making that a firm conclusion I'd also recheck the movement when the engine is doing 1000 or 1500 rpm. You will probably find it all smooths out.

Your real concern will be if the 'solid base mount' is moving. If it is noticeably, then it will fatigue and you need thicker or stiffer metal to damp out, or absorb, the vibration forces.

HTH

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David,

Sorry if I wasn't clear with what I've done here but your conclusion is correct. The 6mm plated mount bolted fast to the engine. The damping rubbers (4) under the 2 straps that hold the canister are utilized at the moment. At idle theres a fair amount of vibration and I'm wondering if its too much? Is this vibration normal on a Defender?

Cheers,

Todd

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G,

the oil bath is too high for any place reasonable on that side of the engine. The Defender air filter assembly is the best solution. It was suggested to me this evening to remove the 4 rubbers and just bolt the canister firmly to the new mount and let it move with the motor....... My give that a try in the morning after I run the rev's up to see if it does level out.

Here is a picture of the mount I created.

Todd.

post-194-1243468081_thumb.jpg

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Thanks Les,

I did replace 2 of the damping rubbers at the back as one was totally broken off. Now sitting here watching the vid I wish that I replaced all 4 as it does appear to me that the back does not vibrate as much as the front.

But for the sake of the argument, I will remove the 4 rubbers and try the motor again to see how it reacts without them.

Todd.

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