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Europe Trip part 2


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This summer I'm off round Europe for 6 weeks in my 110 CSW with three mates to France, Italy, Greece, Turkey, Bulgaria, Serbia, Austria, Czech Republic, Germany & the Netherlands.

Uncle Les has done a mega service and replaced suspension bushes, brake pads, TRE's and rear drive shafts/members.

I've removed the rear bench seats to make room for our gear

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Jamie fitted a false floor in the rear out of 18mm ply and a small box to store a jerry can of water, plus motor oil and fire extinguisher.

Tents, roll mats, personal bags and other soft stuff gets slung on top. Breakables go underneath. Fuel, water, gas, the chiller sit on the benches either boxed in or strapped to the bracing.

The bungees hold the containers tight against the frame.

New High Back seats give back support for the rear passengers....

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In the battery box is a second battery charged via an X-charge. This powers a voltage inverter, the chiller (a powered cool box rather than a fridge), 12v aux power and the amplifier. All these extra items are switched by the ignition energising an old winch solenoid so are totally off when the ignition is cut (the chiller does not run at night).

The old Sony stereo has been adapted to take an iPod - you need to "spoof" the head unit that it has a CD changer attached in order for the AUX connections to work - to do this there are "dongles" available on eBay for about a tenner that plug into the control socket and pretend to be a CD changer.

My old "boy racer" amplifier sits under the second row seats powering some Goodman 3-way speakers for a bit more volume oomff at motorway speeds.

I've wired in a pair of Maplin 12v buzzers to the indicator warning lights on the dash to avoid "oops I am still signalling" errors.

The roof rack is for sale as we don't need the space and could do with losing the extra weight/height/drag, offers please...

We've got insurance and continental breakdown cover - Thanks to NFU, they have been great and I have been dealing with my local office in Godalming, who have added two extra drivers, continental breakdown and travel insurance at a good price.

Watch this space...

-Mark

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Everything seems to be very loosely secured in there.

The boxes under the false floor dont seem to be attached to anything, and can move back & forth freely?

I would personally want my Jerry can & water cans secured with more than a single bungee or being stashed in a box, when they are full they will weigh quite a bit & you wont want them flying around back there. Likewise for the gas bottle.

Have you thought of some form of window protection?

When you have all your stuff slung on top of the false floor, are you confident that you can get to that fire extinguisher in time if needed?

Hope you have a great trip though! Keep us posted....we like lots of pics!

Martin

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The boxes aren't attached to anything but I'm happy don't need to be - 2 a side (total of 4) means can't move forward or back once loaded and the door closed. Only an small amount of lateral movement which I can live with. They're good dimensions for the load bed - 400mmx600mm if you are interested, available from Wilkos for a few quid.

The box is a snug fit for the water so no worries on that count. The photo does not indicate how tight the bungees are - they are secure, but fuel and gas are always the scary items - but they've been driven around enthusiastically as they are and remained firm. I'm not applying "off-roading" load security to a road going camping truck - it has to cope with sudden acceleration (unlikely!) and sharp braking, swerving. I am sure it wouldn't hold in the event of a rollover though which is the scenario I should perhaps consider as 'worst case'? Ratchet straps can always replace bungees if need be.

We are reluctant to build in more solid structures in the back, trying to keep weight and costs down as well as maximise available internal volume.

Fire extinguisher can be reached by the person in the 2nd row. It is frustrating finding a good easily grabbable place to put it without obstructing legroom or entrance/exit to the vehicle (total of 4 people in vehicle). Also, it is there to satisfy a legal requirements of many European countries and not as a means of extinguishing a major engine fire, I drive for our Cadet Force fire service (which is ex-Brigade trained) and would want something more than 2litres of foam in a major event - I'll be bailing from the vehicle and retreating to a safe distance and ringing my insurers.

As regards window protection, did you mean for security from burglary or from the load shifting against the glass?

Hard to secure the load area without a solid divider between front and rear I would think ?

Keep all thoughts coming, we're not off yet and are still modifying.

cheers,

Mark

Everything seems to be very loosely secured in there.

The boxes under the false floor dont seem to be attached to anything, and can move back & forth freely?

I would personally want my Jerry can & water cans secured more than a single bungee or being stashed in a box, when they are full they will weigh quite a bit & you wont want them flying around back there. Likewise for the gas bottle.

Have you thought of some form of window protection?

When you have all your stuff slung on top of the false floor, are you confident that you can get to that fire extinguisher in time if needed?

Hope you have a great trip though! Keep us posted....we like lots of pics!

Martin

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You dont have to have a solid division between the rear seats & the load space.

I designed my own from a dog guard, where I cut out all the mesh, and adapted it so that it could be bolted directly to the top of the bulkhead in several places. I then got me a heavy duty cargo net slung up inbetween this frame to stop bits coming into my cab. Works an absolute treat, and looks very cool too!

For my trip (Trans-Africa) I may fit a solid bulkhead (ie from the top of my real bulkhead, to the roof - made from stainless sheet) to REALLY enhance my security, but also so that I can permanently mount an inverter to it, a second fire extinguisher & any other random mounting/power points I decide I need up front with me.

I would have more than one fire extinguisher too. One up front for electrical/engine problems, and one in the rear for load space/cooking mishaps.

You will inevitably start cooking from the rear (if you dont already) once you are on the move.Have you thought about using a Quick Fist to attach it to the rear door card/door handle grip?

With regards to window protection, I meant to stop people getting at that Jerry can from outside. Even though the countries you are travelling through are relatively safe, you dont want some little twonk having your windows in just for the hell of it.

I dont mean to come across all high & mighty, and sounding like a world authority on this subject, but I have spent many, many months planning this exact thing, so I have a lot of ideas running around my head at the moment! I'm doing my trip in a 90 :o so I have to be very creative about my space usage.

If you want any specific ideas or help, ask away.

Martin

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Not high and mighty sounding at all, I've posted on here for suggestions and comment, all gratefully received.

Good idea re Quick Fists (what a name) I did look at X-eng's 9" X-Eng (God that sounds even worse!) Back door mount is a good idea (and was mooted, it is just sitting in the box at the moment) - think I will move it there if there is still room after fitting the false floor.

Still not sure of a good place up front for a second extinguisher although I used to have one strapped to the dash in front of the front seat passenger. I will be avoiding cooking in the vehicle, as it's not a good idea in general and there should be no need - we're not rough camping on our trip.

I'm sure you're right, the best way of protecting the occupants from load shift has to be some form of guard net or grill.

However as regards external security, I am not going to fit window guards on the grounds that I would have to comprehensively improve all the locks to make even a slight difference (unless, like you say, you create a sealed load area with solid sheeting). I am going to resign myself to the risk of vehicle theft, try and park sensibly and not leave anything in the vehicle I cannot afford to lose. Mind you, the bunch of pikeys I'm travelling with are probably a greater risk...

On a slightly random note, a few European countries and Turkey require a SECOND warning triangle.... More plop to carry...

cheers

Mark

You dont have to have a solid division between the rear seats & the load space.

I designed my own from a dog guard, where I cut out all the mesh, and adapted it so that it could be bolted directly to the top of the bulkhead in several places. I then got me a heavy duty cargo net slung up inbetween this frame to stop bits coming into my cab. Works an absolute treat, and looks very cool too!

For my trip (Trans-Africa) I may fit a solid bulkhead (ie from the top of my real bulkhead, to the roof - made from stainless sheet) to REALLY enhance my security, but also so that I can permanently mount an inverter to it, a second fire extinguisher & any other random mounting/power points I decide I need up front with me.

I would have more than one fire extinguisher too. One up front for electrical/engine problems, and one in the rear for load space/cooking mishaps.

You will inevitably start cooking from the rear (if you dont already) once you are on the move.Have you thought about using a Quick Fist to attach it to the rear door card/door handle grip?

With regards to window protection, I meant to stop people getting at that Jerry can from outside. Even though the countries you are travelling through are relatively safe, you dont want some little twonk having your windows in just for the hell of it.

I dont mean to come across all high & mighty, and sounding like a world authority on this subject, but I have spent many, many months planning this exact thing, so I have a lot of ideas running around my head at the moment! I'm doing my trip in a 90 :o so I have to be very creative about my space usage.

If you want any specific ideas or help, ask away.

Martin

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Hi Mark, the things in the back of your 110 are very loosely secured!

Get a cargo barrier/ dog guard fitted. If things go badly wrong on road then most of that kit will become missiles and your heads will be the targets. Keep only soft stuff in the passenger compartment and hard stuff in a secure rear compartment. Internal security guards on back windows are useful not only for security but as a storage place for safe items such as first aid kits. Fire extinguisers can be fitted to the front of both front seat boxes and sre accessible whilst not impeding on comfort of driver/passenger.

Get hold of some cargo rails and clips and use ratchet straps. Bungees on plastic containers can rub through the container.

Cheap plastic boxes do not last well especially the cheap ones from the sheds. The really useful box company does stronger boxes and can be obtained from Staples.. On my travels have destroyed many plastic boxes. Wolf boxes are much stronger but I have managed to do slight damage to one of those. Look at aluminium boxes available from exmilitary hardware stores.

Land Rover do a light weight wire cage which fits at roof level in the rear. Good for lightweight stuff.

Find owners/vehicles which have travelled abroad on long trips and have a good look at the vehicles.

Regards

Brendan

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On the subject of security I would be concerned about leaving a 110 anywhere with a whole load of visible luggage and kit in it. The last thing you want to do is to be tied to the vehicle, even if you just want to go to the beach or a bar.

I had a load of stuff nicked from a 90 in a tesco car park in Milton Keynes while shopping, it isn't just Africa that is a problem!

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Not sure how you make the gear less visible without the aid of Harry Potter. I travel with a piece of black serge drape and throw it over the contents and that's my magic trick for the day (and I cross my fingers).

Cargo barrier/Dog guard - Yes, am looking at one now.

Window grills - still not convinced, easy enough to get past the locks as it is, surely just making more of a "break into me statement"?

Fire extinguishers on seat boxes - I don't fancy 7000 miles with them in that position, it's annoying but I'd want another location and it is tight for legroom anywhere in the passenger compartment.

Cheap plastic boxes - fit well and are considered disposable but Really Useful Box Co. is great admittedly. These were free, scrounged...

Ally boxes are lovely but there is a budget to consider, much of what you see was free, begged, borrowed.

cheers

Mark

Get a cargo barrier/ dog guard fitted. If things go badly wrong on road then most of that kit will become missiles and your heads will be the targets. Keep only soft stuff in the passenger compartment and hard stuff in a secure rear compartment. Internal security guards on back windows are useful not only for security but as a storage place for safe items such as first aid kits. Fire extinguisers can be fitted to the front of both front seat boxes and sre accessible whilst not impeding on comfort of driver/passenger.

Get hold of some cargo rails and clips and use ratchet straps. Bungees on plastic containers can rub through the container.

Cheap plastic boxes do not last well especially the cheap ones from the sheds. The really useful box company does stronger boxes and can be obtained from Staples.. On my travels have destroyed many plastic boxes. Wolf boxes are much stronger but I have managed to do slight damage to one of those. Look at aluminium boxes available from exmilitary hardware stores.

Land Rover do a light weight wire cage which fits at roof level in the rear. Good for lightweight stuff.

Find owners/vehicles which have travelled abroad on long trips and have a good look at the vehicles.

Regards

Brendan

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Cargo barrier/Dog guard - Yes, am looking at one now.

Window grills - still not convinced, easy enough to get past the locks as it is, surely just making more of a "break into me statement"?

Fire extinguishers on seat boxes - I don't fancy 7000 miles with them in that position, it's annoying but I'd want another location and it is tight for legroom anywhere in the passenger compartment.

Cheap plastic boxes - fit well and are considered disposable but Really Useful Box Co. is great admittedly. These were free, scrounged...

Ally boxes are lovely but there is a budget to consider, much of what you see was free, begged, borrowed.

cheers

Mark

Mark, cargo barrier is an essential bit of kit. Keep hard/heavy stuff away from the valuable bits, i.e. the occupants

Window grilles are not important security items but are useful as window protectors/storeage places.

Have done 60,000+ miles with fire extinguishers on seat boxes which includes trips of 8,000, 16,000 and 25,000 miles with no problems. They are very conveinient sited there.

Cheap and Land Rovers do not go togerther. Buy cheap pay twice over! Get good quality kit and it makes your trip more comfortable and safer.

Regards

Brendan

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Mark,

Not sure if it's a route you want to go down, but a set of series 88" van sides could be picked up pretty cheaply and fit in place of the 110 sw rear window panels - removes the windows from the security issue, and probably a lot cheaper than a set of side grilles too? you can always swap the window ones back in when you come back?

Boxes - as has been said, really useful boxes are excellent (and are occasionally on offer at staples). if you can run to it, zarges ones are superb though and really worth the money (second hand money, not new money!). Alternately, why not knock up a couple of flight cases? ;)

Would it be worth swapping the bungees for ratchet straps? something that will actually hold down the heavier items in the event of an acident - gas canisters, jerry cans and the like? they can be had fairly cheaply from eBlag or b&q..

The cooler doesn't look especially accessible in that position either. Would there be any milage in removing the middle rear seat and putting something there? or putting the cooler in the footwell for the middle seat where it can be accessed by all occupants, and you don't need to unpack the rest of the truck to get to it? just a thought

Cheers

Mark

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As an aside, I just noitced that your boxes are 400x600mm - this is a standard Euro crate size, so you shouldn't have any difficulty finding good quality boxes to fit in the same space if you decide to go down that route.

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Use ratchet straps not bungees for those items. When I had a 110 I used to use bungees a lot

but they won't hold heavy items, ratchet sstraps are much better for securing heavier kit and not

much more fuss to use.

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This is what I did to the windows on my 110. Partly to keep the heat out, partly to exclude prying eyes. It is signwriting vinyl but window tinting film will also work - and might be a good idea on rear windows as you can see out from inside. Cheap, easy to apply and folk will not steal what they do not know is there.

post-209-1244185307_thumb.jpg

Picture c/o Orgasmic Farmer

Chris

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I like the idea of vinyl or film to hide contents - I am in favour of "non-invasive procedures" that still keep the vehicle quite standard.

Cooler in the middle seat has been mooted as an idea - but we may need the seat for guests (those nymphomaniac hitchhikers we pick up in the naturist colony)....

Remember it is a road and camping trip rather than an off-road trip, hence not fitting some of the more "hench" equipment (eg. Brendan travelling 60K and on corrugated roads, that thread is an amazing read!)

Mark

This is what I did to the windows on my 110. Partly to keep the heat out, partly to exclude prying eyes. It is signwriting vinyl but window tinting film will also work - and might be a good idea on rear windows as you can see out from inside. Cheap, easy to apply and folk will not steal what they do not know is there.

post-209-1244185307_thumb.jpg

Picture c/o Orgasmic Farmer

Chris

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The bungees hold the containers tight against the frame.

i would replace now with small 25mm ratchet straps cut to suitable length and take spare and take the bungees

a net on the roof can be good for light weight coats etc but i t will bounce around which may annoy you!!

We've got insurance and continental breakdown cover - Thanks to NFU, they have been great and I have been dealing with my local office in Godalming, who have added two extra drivers, continental breakdown and travel insurance at a good price.

NFU have always worked well for me, they added drivers and continental cover FOC last year - i didnt take the travel insurance option.

You will inevitably start cooking from the rear (if you dont already) once you are on the move.

a braver man than I, i guess you just plan junctions when the pasta is not about to boil!

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WRT fire extinguishers... I have a 1kg powder extinguisher on the front of the seat box in the drivers footwell. I'm 6'4" on a good day with size 12 feet (normally in walking boots) and I don't even know it's there... Just a thought. My front winch solenoids are mounted in the same position in the passenger footwell, so maybe a case for a second small extinguisher there...

Another option is on the back of the cubby box between the front seats...

It is just an idea to have a smaller one to hand whilst another member of the 'crew' are fetching the larger one. It also gives you an option between contents as I don't really like the idea of squirting foam at an electrical fire........

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Ah yes I can see that 1kg fire extinguishers would be much less bulky, I was in "2 kilo" thinking mode as that is the size of powder ext I have here.

Maybe I will try that, thanks. I appreciate the point (that has been made many a time) it is there to buy time not to enact heroics... Something our Brigade instructors remind our students on a regular basis during crew training.

M.

WRT fire extinguishers... I have a 1kg powder extinguisher on the front of the seat box in the drivers footwell. I'm 6'4" on a good day with size 12 feet (normally in walking boots) and I don't even know it's there... Just a thought. My front winch solenoids are mounted in the same position in the passenger footwell, so maybe a case for a second small extinguisher there...

Another option is on the back of the cubby box between the front seats...

It is just an idea to have a smaller one to hand whilst another member of the 'crew' are fetching the larger one. It also gives you an option between contents as I don't really like the idea of squirting foam at an electrical fire........

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