Adjusting handbrake

[TheBeastie]

I have tried referring to Haynes and also Google and forum search but cannot seem to find clear, idiot proof (me!) instructions on how to adjust. The other week I had to stop on a hill and the handbrake fully on at four clicks was just not quite holding The Beastie, perhaps 98% but enough to give both me and the driver behind some food for thought

It was done by the garage for MOT about three months ago but clearly now needs a little adjustment. I cannot seem to see how to do it! Hoping it can be done from inside the cab since it is lashing down.

It is a 1991 200Tdi 90 and still has original transmission brake. Any pointers would be really helpful since I cannot work out if I need to remove rear prop shaft and adjust the shoes or if it is just the cable that needs tightenin a notch or two.

Thanks for any input

Malcy

[errol209]

I have tried referring to Haynes and also Google and forum search but cannot seem to find clear, idiot proof (me!) instructions on how to adjust. The other week I had to stop on a hill and the handbrake fully on at four clicks was just not quite holding The Beastie, perhaps 98% but enough to give both me and the driver behind some food for thought

It was done by the garage for MOT about three months ago but clearly now needs a little adjustment. I cannot seem to see how to do it! Hoping it can be done from inside the cab since it is lashing down.

It is a 1991 200Tdi 90 and still has original transmission brake. Any pointers would be really helpful since I cannot work out if I need to remove rear prop shaft and adjust the shoes or if it is just the cable that needs tightenin a notch or two.

Thanks for any input

Malcy

1. 
   Chock the wheels
   Remove the middle seat and panel
   Release the handbrake fully
   Remove the split pin and "clevis" pin that holds the fork on the end of the handbrake cable onto the mechanism bolted to the gearbox
   Find the square adjuster on the brake plate and do it up until the drum won't move, just
   Adjust the handbrake cable sheath (two nuts at gearbox end) until the fork lines up again
   Reconnect the fork (new split pin please)
   Back the adjuster off two clicks
   Replace the panel and seat
   Apply handbarake
   Remove chocks
   

[western]

From the Genuine Defender workshop manual, go from para 32 onwards.

[TheBeastie]

Hmm. Thanks guys. It now seems relatively straightforward. I suppose most things are obvious when pointed out!

I think I have got it now and yes I did replace the split pin which had corroded away to not a lot. Also put WD40 over the yoke and clevis pin area since it seemed a bit rusted up.

I presume the only real test is to go to a hill and see if the three click pull up on the brake lever holds it. What happens if I have over adjusted the brake shoes - heat, smoke, noise???

Think the next treat for The Beastie will be an X brake but the trouble is that radio turns out to be an even more expensive hobby that Land Rovers if that is possible

[western]

if it's to tight then it will drag & get hot, if you can't get a satisfactory result, then fit new shoes or go straight for a X-brake.

& Yes radio is a lot more expensive hobby.

[danielh110]

i have just had to sort my hand brake out..... tried to service the expander unit but found it was just to worn so have put a new one in this morning and its made 100% improvement

dan

[markyb]

found going past one turn did the job for mine seemed to loosen when it went round another.

i do hate those handbrakes, ok when they are working

[Anderzander]

Mines the later type with the different type cable adjuster - and its a pain to get too and I can't seem to get it to take the slack out of the cable after the drum has been adjusted. I think an x-brake is the way forward.