TheBeastie Posted June 28, 2009 Share Posted June 28, 2009 Well The Beastie (200Tdi) seems to have now sprung a second leak from the radiator. One is towards the bottom on the near side and the newer one, which seems more impressive, is again towards the bottom on the off side. I kept it topped up every time we stopped but on hills and at 7omph it kept getting a bit hotter - at one point the electric fan kicked in but with the fan and the heater both running (window wide open!) it cooled back to "normal" fairly quickly. Not sure if this due to proportion of antifreeze now low or system unable to properly pressurise - to be honest surprised how little water I needed to top up each time. The oil intercooler looks to be in better nick. Can I replace just the water part, and if so are there any hints and tips about what parts to get and how to do it? I am thinking probably better to go for new if possible. I think also time to replace hoses and wondered if there were any particular recommendations. Any thoughts or pointers would be good. Thanks Malcy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted June 28, 2009 Share Posted June 28, 2009 the oil cooler is NOT a seperate part, the intercooler that sits alongside the radiator only has air passed through it's internal passages & through the fins [air to air intercooler] the oil cooler is a tubular thin tank which sits with the right hand side tank of the radiator & cannot be replaced seperatly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBeastie Posted June 28, 2009 Author Share Posted June 28, 2009 Thanks Ralph Does this mean I have to go for NTC4893 which seems to be around £300 and the other 200Tdi options at about £100 are out for me? The VIN is HA703663 Would be almost enough to make me weep. or at least explore whether Radweld might do the trick for a while anyway! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted June 28, 2009 Share Posted June 28, 2009 or you could have the existing radiator recored locally, the 200TDi rad from LR genuine part only comes complete with the intercooler & frame, this is a ready to fit with no additional parts required. There are available the radiator on it's own which will be a lot cheaper. from craddocks website Part Number : NTC4893 RADIATOR 90/110 200TDI UP TO JA919831 For Radiator/oil cooler only use BTP1823S £328.76 Other suppliers [rad only] BTP1823S http://www.rjs4x4.com/eshop/index.php?main...roducts_id=1029 http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/radiator-200td...1823s-p-95.html http://www.mailorder4x4.com/acatalog/Defen...Radiators1.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted June 28, 2009 Share Posted June 28, 2009 Where it says radiator only - i think that includes the oil cooler since that is integral. The expensive ones are the framework and intercooler as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted June 28, 2009 Share Posted June 28, 2009 Where it says radiator only - i think that includes the oil cooler since that is integral. The expensive ones are the framework and intercooler as well. that's what I said above. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBeastie Posted June 28, 2009 Author Share Posted June 28, 2009 Thanks for the additional info. I think I will go with the radiator only, BTP1823S. Apart from getting new hoses, which I suspect are due replacement anyway, are there any other parts I am likely to need that you can think of? I ask since I do not really want to get stuck with no radiator as I have to tow one of four big towers down to Castle Douglas for VHF Field Day next weekend (I think we are going as GM2T for this event) and reckon it would be a good idea to get the new radiator in place as people are depending upon me for this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LandyManLuke Posted June 28, 2009 Share Posted June 28, 2009 You'll need to swap over the thread adapters for the oil cooler pipes. The easiest way by far to swap the rad is to unplumb the oil, water and air pipes and lift the frame/cassette out as one complete unit. then dismantle it on the bench, slot in the new radiator and drop the whole lot in again. I tried jiggling the radiator out of the frame, with it still in the vehicle, I found the above method much easier the second time i did it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted June 28, 2009 Share Posted June 28, 2009 as Luke suggest, it'll be the quickest/easiest way. & Yes you'll need it fixed. I'll keep a ear on 2m for the callsign Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted June 29, 2009 Share Posted June 29, 2009 I have a genuine one here that you can have for a pound Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CURLY Posted June 29, 2009 Share Posted June 29, 2009 I have a genuine one here that you can have for a pound Les. LOL! CURLY Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBeastie Posted June 29, 2009 Author Share Posted June 29, 2009 Muchos thankos for the offer but have gone instead for a new Bearmach one I sourced in LR stealer in Edinburgh. It was well over the cost of Internet but I reckoned once delivery added the difference would be less and more importantly it was available now. Followed LandymanLuke's suggestion and was grateful. Job was easier than I thought other than having to go and buy a 24mm open spanner and also The Beastie taking a bite out of my arm when the oil nut finally slackened! Thanks for all the help and advice - as always it is most appreciated. Now just off to get the engine running to check for leaks and then job is done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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