Elylandrover Posted July 5, 2009 Share Posted July 5, 2009 Hi All I am new here (and to mechanical acts of daring on LRs) and was looking for a bit of advice regarding my SIII's brakes. They're standard drum brakes, as you'd expect, however, I am having a real issue in removing the drum! The retaining screws have come out easily enough with an impact driver, but even after slacking the shoe adjuster bolt at the rear of the unit, the drum just does not want to come off! I have 'encouraged' it with a mallet, but I was wondering if anyone else had any pearls of wisdom to share? Your help would be much appreciated! Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted July 5, 2009 Share Posted July 5, 2009 Does the drum move at all or does it appear to be stuck fast? If it is, then it's just rust holding it to the hub. If the drum is a tight fit anyway, then thumping it with a mallet won't help a lot. Spray WD40 on the base of the wheel stud holes and also where it fits over the hub, and just leave it for a while. The WD40 will make it let go and then it usually comes off very easily. Apply some leverage between the brake backplate and the drum, then knock it with a mallet. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest otchie1 Posted July 5, 2009 Share Posted July 5, 2009 Hi AllI am new here (and to mechanical acts of daring on LRs) and was looking for a bit of advice regarding my SIII's brakes. They're standard drum brakes, as you'd expect, however, I am having a real issue in removing the drum! The retaining screws have come out easily enough with an impact driver, but even after slacking the shoe adjuster bolt at the rear of the unit, the drum just does not want to come off! I have 'encouraged' it with a mallet, but I was wondering if anyone else had any pearls of wisdom to share? Your help would be much appreciated! Matt back off the adjusters. i know you said you have but back them off some more and very very sure they are off - drum should spin absolutely free then clout the drum on its edge with a suitable heavy object to centralise the shoes - should pull straight off if there is too much of a lip in the drum then you can always apply a big lever and have at it until the pins sheer but you will need new pins etc probably worth mentioning that I've never yet had to resort to ripping one off. Occasionally I thought I might have to but then I looked again at the adjusters and realised that I hadn't backed them off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted July 6, 2009 Share Posted July 6, 2009 until the pins sheer What pins are you reffering to. Otchie? Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gremlin Posted July 6, 2009 Share Posted July 6, 2009 bigger hammer usually works for me! G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Hancock Posted July 6, 2009 Share Posted July 6, 2009 Or another option is remove the hub and drum as an assembly, sit the drum down on a flat surface and with a block of hard wood on the flange face with a BFH drive the hub out of the drum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gumbers Posted July 7, 2009 Share Posted July 7, 2009 Have you tried inserting one of the retaining screws back into the small threaded hole on the drum? it'll need a few taps with an impact driver but this usually gets it started. then working round from behind with a decent size hammer against a piece of wood on the rim usually does the trick for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumbleweed Posted July 7, 2009 Share Posted July 7, 2009 blowtorch always helps i find!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest otchie1 Posted July 20, 2009 Share Posted July 20, 2009 What pins are you reffering to. Otchie?Les. ahh, that'll be the ones that aren't used to hold the shoes to the back plate In that case he'll have to buy some pins and bend them in a vice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted July 20, 2009 Share Posted July 20, 2009 A V8 head bolt (3/8" UNC? ) can be wound into the threaded hole in the drum face to drive it off the hub, that combined with gentle tapping to encourage it to come away squarely and not bind always worked for me. Too much violence and you'll crack or knacker the drum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuntman Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 Sadly, you'll end up having to do what i did, fill thedrum with as much WD40 as you can and keep soaking in everywhere, I wire brushed everywhere I could to get rid of as much rust as i could to start with, then after 2 days of this a blow torch was employed, i also ended up using a BIG flate bladed screw driver on the lip at the back of the drum and a big hammer to drive it off. I rebuilt the entire hub anyway with new cylinders and shoes, and i dropped a new drum on at the same time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 Sadly, you'll end up having to do what i did, fill thedrum with as much WD40 as you can and keep soaking in everywhere, I wire brushed everywhere I could to get rid of as much rust as i could to start with, then after 2 days of this a blow torch was employed, i also ended up using a BIG flate bladed screw driver on the lip at the back of the drum and a big hammer to drive it off.I rebuilt the entire hub anyway with new cylinders and shoes, and i dropped a new drum on at the same time. When a new drum is fitted either paint the exterior with VHT paint or fill the lip with copper grease. And remember to service the brakes every year, removing any rust in the process. G. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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