Jaroslav Posted August 17, 2009 Share Posted August 17, 2009 Hello there, I've just replaced a fuel filter on my N/A Diesel 110. I have a Hayes book that describes a rather bleeding procedure that is supposed to remove air from the fuel system. Well, after trying this and that, I ended up cranking the engine with the starter while keeping the bleeding bolt on top of the fuel filter assembly loose. At the end it worked, after spilling a lot of oil on the floor, but I'm still puzzled why I couldn't do it the proper way using the manual pump. When I pumped the manual fuel pump, there was a feeling that it's not doing anything and that there is no resistance at all. I've pumped probably 500 times. The Hayes book says, that if the manual pump level is up when the engine is stopped then the pump can't be operated. Isn't that stupid? I've tried cranking the engine with the lever up/down, but couldn't see no difference. Is it even supposed to work? The WSM where it describes fuel filter replacement procedure doesn't even mention any bleeding that needs to be done afterwards. Perhaps I just overcomplicated everything and all I needed to do is to replace the filter and then run/crank the engine until it clears itself of the air all by itself? /Jaroslav Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted August 17, 2009 Share Posted August 17, 2009 the lift pump priming lever will only work if the pumps cam is sat on the lobe of the camshaft, you may have to turn the engine to get the lift pump cam lobe in the right position, when it is right you should feel some resistance when to operate the lever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaroslav Posted August 17, 2009 Author Share Posted August 17, 2009 the lift pump priming lever will only work if the pumps cam is sat on the lobe of the camshaft, you may have to turn the engine to get the lift pump cam lobe in the right position, when it is right you should feel some resistance when to operate the lever. Well, would cranking the engine for random intervals get the cam into the right position eventually? Can you turn it manually somehow? /Jaroslav Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted August 17, 2009 Share Posted August 17, 2009 you can rotate the engine by using a socket & suitable handle on the crank pulley bolt or flick it on the starter, both will work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaroslav Posted August 17, 2009 Author Share Posted August 17, 2009 I see... All this doesn't make much sense to me. They say you might have to bleed the system if you run out of fuel, which might happen on the road. Unless you keep keep a toolbox full of sockets and wrenches with you all the time, how the heck you're supposed to loosen the bleeding bolt (and know which one) and also turn the crankshaft on the road? Fuel priming should have been designed in a more user-friendly way. /Jaroslav Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
errol209 Posted August 17, 2009 Share Posted August 17, 2009 Fuel priming should have been designed in a more user-friendly way. What, and spoil the challenge? On a related but unhelpful note, I haven't had to bleed mine ever, including simultaneous lift pump & filter changes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted August 17, 2009 Share Posted August 17, 2009 or make sure you have sufficent fuel for the outward & return journeys, it's not rocket science, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaroslav Posted August 17, 2009 Author Share Posted August 17, 2009 On a related but unhelpful note, I haven't had to bleed mine ever, including simultaneous lift pump & filter changes? So, you just kept cranking the engine with the starter? But what about the bleeding point? Did you keep it open? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted August 17, 2009 Share Posted August 17, 2009 I dont understand the problem. Ralph has explained above... Either flick the ignition (if you dont have a socket) or turn it by the crank bolt (if you do have a socket and dont want to flick the ignition) until the cam is in the right position and the priming lever will work - its trial and error. Then undo the bleed screw and prime until there is no air in the system. tighten up once bled. If you want, just turn the engine over with the bleed screw undone and bleed it this way. tighten up once bled. Then, dont run out of fuel. If you do run out of fuel, you only need a spanner to undo the bleed screw, not a whole toolbox of assorted spanners. I get the impression most of them will start and self bleed via the tank return after changing filters etc and bleeding is only really necessary if you have an airlock in the system impeding fuel flow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unsworth Posted August 17, 2009 Share Posted August 17, 2009 As explained in all the above posts . I had a 2.5TD which I pressume uses a simular pump? I had an 8mm spanner on a piece of string tied the the header tank (Always there and never came off even when offroad). So this ment I always had a spanner!. And if there was no resistance on the pump I simply flicked the key to get the cam in the right place and it always worked for me. You can also crack off the small 8mm stud on top of the pump and turn the engine over and over with the stop solenoid wire pulled off (Safer) but as I had a poor engine I never did this as I saved my battery for starting it as it needed excessive cranking and glow plugs! Its not rocket sience .. Also I have only done this whilst swapping the liftpump and replacing fuel lines.. I have never ran out of diesel in the year I have being driving and im a skint student!. Also if you want to buy a crank pulley socket you need 1/2inch 41mm I believe. But my experiences are based on the TD version of the engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaroslav Posted August 18, 2009 Author Share Posted August 18, 2009 I dont understand the problem. Ralph has explained above... There is no problem. I was able to bleed the system by cranking the engine with the bleeding screw loosened. What bothered me is that I didn't do it by-the-book, which means that I might have succeeded only by dumb luck, and that next time I might not be that lucky. What you're saying confirms that I did the right thing and therefore I'm all prepared for the next time. Thanks for all replies. /Jaroslav Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
errol209 Posted August 18, 2009 Share Posted August 18, 2009 So, you just kept cranking the engine with the starter? But what about the bleeding point? Did you keep it open? Just cranked, couldn't tell the difference from normal as it started OK and then ran like a dog for a minute or two. I didn't try and get any air out of it. Luck perhaps, but it keeps happening! Glad you sorted it though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pat_pending Posted August 18, 2009 Share Posted August 18, 2009 Just fill the filter with clean diesel before fitting and crank. No bleeding required. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaroslav Posted August 18, 2009 Author Share Posted August 18, 2009 Just fill the filter with clean diesel before fitting and crank. No bleeding required. Well, with my type of filter it wouldn't be easy as it has holes at the bottom. It needs to be assembled air-tight in place: the bottom, the filter and the top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pat_pending Posted August 18, 2009 Share Posted August 18, 2009 Well, with my type of filter it wouldn't be easy as it has holes at the bottom. It needs to be assembled air-tight in place: the bottom, the filter and the top. Ah yes, you don't have a TDI, sorry. Those small CAV filters fill quite quickly anyway, assuming the battery and lift pump are good. Alternatively you could use a bulb type primer. Can be a permanently attached if you want, faster priming than the standard lever affair. Even if you only use it to fill the filter and then remove it the engine will still fire up with a bit of air in the line, faster than a dry filter. You can find them at the scrappers on old cars, my Peugeot 306 had one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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