Unsworth

Within the last hour one of my best friends 300TDI Green Defender 90 truck cab has been stolen from just outside of sheffield in Beighton. Reg plate is P725 FJC The truck has -BFG TRACK-EDGE tyres on freestyle 300tdi alloys -Brand new Mantec Snorkel -Warn 8274 winch on a custom made tubular winch bumper -The upper-most roof lining panel on the inside is missing its covering and it is black -Orange "Britax" beacon mounted on the rear tailgate with 2 x rear work lights drilled into the cappings facing backwards -Also note the exhaust tail pipe ends inside the rear wheel arch -And there is heavy dents to the "barrels" of the doors -There was also his shotgun certificate and a snap-on torch and a snap-on impact gun inside. Some of the pics are a few weeks old before the snow and it has the 3/4 tilt fitted. It is aggravating as this belongs to one of my best friends who will go out of his way to help any land rover owner that is stuck, broken down or needs a hand with his truck or obtaining parts. He is a credit to the community! If anyone hears or see's anything at all please do not be affraid to get in contact with either of us ALEX - 07853844760 ME - 07908453125

Mine doesnt flash until there is like 10 litres in the tank? This is on a 1988 90 too!

As I understand it, Down to EU regulations from 2007 onwards you are not allowed to fit steel bullbars or A-bars to any vehicle (This is why land rover have turned to those soft plastic jobbies). So the way I see it is you can fit anything you want (As long as it doesnt have protruding sharp edges etc) to your vehicle if it was before 2007 as they cannot proove whether the bar was fitted before or after thir date. (Im sure this is how it went but im not 100% on the year, Im just going by what an MOT tester told me)

Hi all, I have a very modified 1988 90 with many upgrades. I have some 305-70-16 tyres with a small 12 inch "Astralli" steering wheel which I thought was fine until I took the wheel off for re-furbishment and stuck the original kind back on (Big hard plastic 4 spoked thing) which made the steering feel very light due to its bigger size) So I would like something in between the huge 90 wheel and the 12 inch Astralli wheel I would like to fit the 2 spoked Tdi/TD5 Defender wheel with the plastic pop out land rover oval in the centre (Not leather TD5 County ES "airbag style" wheel) although I know these have a different spline count to that of a 1988 90 and I know the TD5 County leather wheel will fit straight on but these seem expensive anyway and I like the Standard TD5 Wheel. My question is, How easy would it be to swap the steering colomn over from a Tdi or Td5 defender with mine?. Also could someone please measure the diameter of their Tdi/TD5 steering wheel for me!

I grease them every couple of weeks anyway, I just think its down to the tiddle poor quality of the UJ's I am buying.. Sooner have a press than the small vice I currently use

My rear prop on my D90 needs a pair of new UJ's (They only last 3 months). I would like to buy a press to fit them myself easily instead of abusing a vice and hammers etc.. I want a hydraulic press but have got my eyes on this arbor press, Would it be good enough for the job? http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/1-ton-arbor-press/path/hydraulic-presses

Hi all.. on my Defender 90 I have the later style reversing + fog lights, 2 either side as in the picture below They have removable bulb holders which I believe are the same as the ones on 300TDI and TD5 side and indicator lights. I keep having problems with them, They were fitted when I got the land rover, But the two small spades on the back of the bulb holders simply have the existing wires soldered to them!. Obviously this bodge hasnt lasted long and when removing the bulbs to replace them, the wires on the back of the bulb holders break off.. I would like to know a part number for the bulb holders and where to get them. And also I am wanting some of the male plugs which plug into the bulb holders which are usually part of the wiring loom. Is there anywhere I can get them? Many thanks.. Matt

I have just fitted some 300TDI (Defender/Disco) Freestyle alloys to my 1988 90. I have the original 10 spline axles with drum brakes on the rear.. They fitted straight on with no modifications at all. Alloys had not been altered by the previous owner. Photo of mine and my mates 1987 90 both fitted with the Freestyle alloys with no modifications what so ever...

Providing Gaz has first dibs.. How much are you looking for it plus postage to uk mainland?

every Jap vehicle I have seen has had the steering wheel on the right also. Such as Pajeros, Hilux Surfs, Imprezzas and jap import Discos Never, ever seen a left hand drive jap car

Yeah thats the one!. Its always had a jubelee clip on yet no matter how tight the clip is, Oil always leaks past it!

Hi all. Been having some problems with my Disco 200TDI engine in my 90. Theres a pipe which runs down the right hand side of the engine (As if you are looking at the flywheel) so on the injector pump side. This pipe then returns to the engine oil sump. The original pipe was leaking since I fitted the engine, So being fed up with it I simply replaced it with a length of 13mm ID rubber air line pipe using a genuine jubelee clip on the bottom of this pipe but it seems to be still leaking. Its definatly coming from the bottom of the pipe and it leaves un-sightly patches of oil on my garage floor (Isnt ideal having an oil covered floor in any workshop!). Can anyone tell me what this pipe is for? And should this pipe have a jubelee clip on the base of the pipe to the sump?. Also the part number for the genuine pipe? Many thanks.. Matt

I just did mine in situ, Didnt see why it needed to come out!

Cillit bang Spray on then wipe off with a warm, damp cloth

I see what meant!. New panel job I think and its a right pig of a job to do!!!! Whilst your at home, can you remember to bring them Avon rangemasters down (The two best ones) Thanks..

Lets see some photos then!

Any photos Joe? Couldnt reply to your text the other day mate, Give me a ring if you need any more help! (No credit) If you want (Depending on how bad it looks) we can have a go at straightening it up at mine when your back in sheffield? Might not look pretty but neither does the rest of the truck! ..

"I'm sticking it on with PVA, it's cheap and doesn't melt the polystyrene." (Quoted from the first post) Also spray paint just melts Polystyrene

I'd sooner put as much spare funds into buying another 90 to be honest. Its only the fact that I have everything bar the electricals to build up another series. It wont need an IVA as the chassis is going to be built up with its original ID and some other parts so its all legit. Just nearly every other part has been replaced with new or some in better condition such as panels, bulkhead, seats, dash, gearbox etc..

Alright Joe, You need to check your Facebook Only reason I am going against galvanizing is the cost!. The chassis in question is for a series land rover and the chassis is bare except from the back end being painted and the rear springs and rear axle fitted. I am planning on building up a series 3 from all the spares I have left over from other builds and motors I have owned! Im going up to the local market tomorrow and I will see what paints my tool man has.

Hi all, I currently have a like new MILD STEEL (Not galvanized) Chassis which has been shot blasted and primed with zinc oxide primer to the eye balls!. I painted the back half of the chassis with that glossy bitumen black paint but I wondered what is the best black gloss paint to use on my chassis and axles? Everything will be primed thoroughly with zinc oxide primer so I am simply looking for a long lasting black glossy finish which mud wont want to stick to and can easily be jetwashed down. I would have thought hammerite but since a couple of years ago, Hammerite is not what it used to be so I am unsure whether to use this?. All sugestions welcome.. Thanks.. Matt

I have the Halfords 2.25t "quick lift" 4x4 Jack and I would NOT reccomend it!.. It could do with a bigger jack saddle!, But the main reason I wouldnt reccomend it is that the seals often fail.. I bought my first Halfords 2.25t jack 18 months ago, Since then every single one of them has bust its seal!.. I am on my 6th one and I have only ever jacked up a 2a and a 90 with each one!. Most of them didnt even lift a person after 3 months of general use but the last one simply let its self down which isnt a problem if you use axle stands. But how many people here actually use axle stands whilst changing a wheel? But I keep the reciepts for my jack so every time one fails I take it to Halfrauds and complain how its poor build quality and not safe for use and show them the reciept and they simply give me another jack and a new receipt for 12 months

the newer generation land rovers TDV8 like fitted to Discovery 3's and L322's is my guess.. Plus someone on here has already done this with a brand new TDV8 in a Defender 90!

Hi all.. After bang on 12 months of ownership of my 1988 90 (Driving it daily through wind, snow, rain and summer) I have realised how much you can take a modern cars heater for granted!. I have to drive with the window down most of the time but also my heater doesnt work at all When I give power to my heaters motor it doesnt work any more (It simply does nothing yet gives out a little amount of smoke). To test it I used a set of jump leads and a battery So a few questions.. - Are all Defender heaters universal to eachother?, Would a TD5 heater fit into a 1988 90 and vice versa?. - I plan to wire it up to a toggle switch to the maximum speed as the dash control isnt reliable either. But I plan to use the hot-cold knob and the direction knob when I took the engine out I disconnected the two cables to the heater box so how do I find out which one is which? - Did heaters ever improve through the years?. So would a 300tdi or TD5 one be better than a "Ninetys"? - What modifications can be done to a standard heater to make it function better? - Is there a wiring diagramme or a diagramme of where everything should go such as operating cables and wires? I just want a heater which works as I do not want to have to de-ice the inside of the windows whilst I am driving like last year. I just want it so I can flick a toggle switch and the heater blows on full and I can change the direction of the air flow! Sorry for all the stupid questions but I cannot go another winter in my ninety without being comfortable!