bigbeast Posted September 7, 2009 Share Posted September 7, 2009 ok so i've got the lightbar/lights fitted to my roof now but am having trouble deciding which route to go down with regards to the wires entering the cab from outside... any ideas, and installs that you lot have done would be a great help. i am thinking a grommet just above the gutter, but dont really want a hole in the roof if lights are removed in the future. also does anyone know how to wire directly onto the high/full beam switch as i have looked and cannot find info an this, the rest of the wiring am ok with..i think thanks alot..ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
errol209 Posted September 7, 2009 Share Posted September 7, 2009 ok so i've got the lightbar/lights fitted to my roof now but am having trouble deciding which route to go down with regards to the wires entering the cab from outside... any ideas, and installs that you lot have done would be a great help. i am thinking a grommet just above the gutter, but dont really want a hole in the roof if lights are removed in the future. also does anyone know how to wire directly onto the high/full beam switch as i have looked and cannot find info an this, the rest of the wiring am ok with..i think thanks alot..ben Most people use a light bar as an excuse to buy a snorkel to hide the wiring behind ... I'd take a line off before one of the main beam fuses, the relay can then hide in the fusebox too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbeast Posted September 7, 2009 Author Share Posted September 7, 2009 are you guilty of that one then thanks errol just to save time where would that fuse be, in the under the seat or under the dash? and i'm guessing you mean wire the switch line from the relay onto this main beam line? using a connecter block or something similar? ta...ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
errol209 Posted September 7, 2009 Share Posted September 7, 2009 are you guilty of that one then thanks errol just to save time where would that fuse be, in the under the seat or under the dash? and i'm guessing you mean wire the switch line from the relay onto this main beam line? using a connecter block or something similar? ta...ben couldn't possibly say ... Not familiar withthe fuse boxes on poncy Range Rovers, sorry, but the rest of the sentence is right. Mine goes main beam fuse -> switch (for those times when you don't want half the country lighting up) -> relay terminal. I've also added an extra fuse for the battery to driving light relay feed, 1) because I'm like that and 2)it stops everything going dark when a fuse pops Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbeast Posted September 8, 2009 Author Share Posted September 8, 2009 i will hunt down this fuse then, however i think i may wire them to the high beams(flash) in the same way, guess is exactly the same! basically so i blind the $**! outta oncoming traffic when i give way any idas on wiring entering the cab? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roverdrive Posted September 8, 2009 Share Posted September 8, 2009 I know wagons have their lights connected like that, but not sure if it is legal to do so on the road, even if connected to only come on with the main beam. I am sure someone will be along shortly to confirm or deny that. As has been said before, you cannot wire directly on to the main beam circuit, but must use a relay switched by the main beam circuit, with a separate fused supply for the lights. What age Range Rover is it? On my '89 plate the fuse box is on the left hand side of the heater. As for entering the cab, I cant really help. I guess it depends on where you want the drip! Would it be possible to come in through the windscreen pillar rather than the roof? I am presently about 5,000 miles away from my RRC, so can't be any more specific till I get home. Sorry about that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted September 8, 2009 Share Posted September 8, 2009 any idas on wiring entering the cab? Poked through the standard grommet would seem to be neatest. As has been said, you want to take the switch or relay coil feed from the main beam (I'd suggest via a small fuse) and the power feed via a fuse from wherever is best for you - battery + is a popular one. You can't have the spots coming on with main beam at MOT time so a switch to disable it is a good idea. A double-throw switch can be wired to give you "on" "off" and "on-with-main-beam". The wire you're looking for is blue with a white tracer (main beam) and you can pick it up wherever works best, from the switch all the way to the back of the headlight. For the love of god, don't tap into it with a Bodgelok though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbeast Posted September 9, 2009 Author Share Posted September 9, 2009 thanks guys, right i am a complete novice with electrics, and got lost when coil was mentioned? anyway if i cant wire to the beams for legal reason i may just use a switch (hidden neatly) in the cab. i think i can handle that oh and i dnt have a rangey its a defender, i posted in the wrong forum by accident (its in defender forum too now) i think a grommet is gunna be the best way to enter then feed along, to the plastic trim where the seatbelt attaches and down into the seatbox to battery, and house and earth the relay in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbeast Posted September 9, 2009 Author Share Posted September 9, 2009 hang on i think i get it just bear with me now so i wire up the lights exactly as i would if using a regular switch (not connected to any existing circuit)..ie relay earth (possible battery -), relay live from battery (+)(with in line fuse 30A?), relay live to lights (individual to each), and lights to earth (individual from each), and finally...relay switch (live from relay? and earth from wherever?) but to wire with the beams = relay----switch----tap into main beam live?? and i earth as before, or is this wrong? thanks ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted September 9, 2009 Share Posted September 9, 2009 A picture tells a thousand long winded explanations: The thick wires should be rated for the power of your lights plus a bit, so: If the lights are 100W each: 2x 100W = 200W 200W/12v = 16.666A so you will want cable rated for 20A minimum. The thin wires can be pretty much anything, although sticking to something that is at least automotive rated is a good idea. For more than one set of lights (one relay will reliably run one pair of lights @100w per light) wire another copy of this circuit but connect the 2nd relay 85 terminal to the first relay's 85 terminal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbeast Posted September 9, 2009 Author Share Posted September 9, 2009 ta very much fridge freezer, thats perfect..if i wanted instead of wiring to the main beams, do this but substitute the main beam feed for the high beam feed (flash) and use the 3way switch in the same way (on/off/together with flash)..im guessing it would be a different wire to use (not blue/white)?? but this i feel would be a better setup for me thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted September 9, 2009 Share Posted September 9, 2009 Main beam (full beam/flash) = Blue/white Dipped beam (driving) = Blue/red Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbeast Posted September 9, 2009 Author Share Posted September 9, 2009 thanks again, will crack on at weekend Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clbarclay Posted September 9, 2009 Share Posted September 9, 2009 The wires on mine run up the out side of the A pillars tucked neatly behind the door seals and pass through a holes in the bottom of the gutter. they then runn back along the gutter to the roof rack mounts and up these to the lights. At the bottom they tuck round uner the scuttle pannel and itno the eingine bay where they either go to earth or through existing grommets in the bulkhead to switches and fuse in the dash. Power to the fuses is taken off via the through bulkhead power terminal near the drivers feet. All you can see normally is just a couple of inches of wire at the top of the A pillars under the gutter, which being black arn't noticeable. On my 1987 RRC there is already a relay wired in with the main beam, located under the dash, which used to work the lower spot lights located in the plastic valance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disco_al Posted September 9, 2009 Share Posted September 9, 2009 When i eventually get round to fitting mine to the Disco, i intend to find a waterproof surface mount connector (hopefully flush mount) that can be mounted in the roof, and sealed up to stop leaks. This will then allow the bar to be easily removed, or accessory lamps to be plugged in as and when required. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
errol209 Posted September 10, 2009 Share Posted September 10, 2009 Er, sorry I've been quiet, but auxiliary driving lights (effectively main beam lights if they are aimed parallel to the road) can only be used provided they are arranged so that they do not dazzle oncoming drivers (Vehicle Wiring Regs, one of the schedules, near the bottom). This means that FF's diagram is OK provided that they point at the ground where the dip beam lands (not a good use of the lights) or they only come on when there is nobody coming the other way (i.e. with the main beam). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clbarclay Posted September 10, 2009 Share Posted September 10, 2009 Exactly as the auxillary driving lights arrangement on a 86 onwards range rover. The switching input for the auxillary lights relay comes from the LH side main beam. Pull out fuse 4 (LH main beam) and the auxillary lights should cease to work. This arrangement confused the hell out of me origionally as I though the auxillary lights in the valance were fog lights and woundered why they only came on with main beam, which was the last thing I wanted on a very foggy night. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbeast Posted September 11, 2009 Author Share Posted September 11, 2009 hi guys, i dont intend to use the lights on the road, dont forget they are roof mount and will only be used when off road, shooting etc..anyway i have all components ready now for the wkend and should get round to it on sunday, and will hopefully get it finished then , fingers crossed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldShep56 Posted September 11, 2009 Share Posted September 11, 2009 We have similar lights on the top of our trucks ........... four huge spots. They come on when Main Beam is activated BUT we also have to have a switch inside the cab so as to be able to turn them off when Main Beam on. I would assume this applies to cars too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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