Oitchy Posted September 25, 2009 Share Posted September 25, 2009 Hi. I had a new clutch & fork fitted to a 1995 '90. Whilst in France 3 months later, bell housing bolts sheared off and fork punched through. Had it repaired at considerable cost, but it did the above when I got it back; they muttered that it could be hubs, but I don't think I can afford any more crazy French prices. What have they managed to do to my Landy, and should I risk the return trip of 500 miles or so? Thanks in advance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
errol209 Posted September 25, 2009 Share Posted September 25, 2009 Hi. I had a new clutch & fork fitted to a 1995 '90. Whilst in France 3 months later, bell housing bolts sheared off and fork punched through. Had it repaired at considerable cost, but it did the above when I got it back; they muttered that it could be hubs, but I don't think I can afford any more crazy French prices. What have they managed to do to my Landy, and should I risk the return trip of 500 miles or so? Thanks in advance I'd suspect anything that came off to do the clutch, like propshaft UJs and flange bolts. Before I read the text I also wondered about the tyres dragging on the radius arms, but that won't be caused by a clutch change Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted September 25, 2009 Share Posted September 25, 2009 I'd add, are you sure the diff lock is disengaged properly? Nigel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LandyManLuke Posted September 25, 2009 Share Posted September 25, 2009 Further to the above, get someone to watch as you drive round at low speed with full lock, as you've previously done. If any of the tyres skip or scuff, the centre diff is locked. You can also check by jacking up a wheel and trying to turn it, whilst the engine is off and the main box is in neutral. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oitchy Posted September 25, 2009 Author Share Posted September 25, 2009 Further to the above, get someone to watch as you drive round at low speed with full lock, as you've previously done. If any of the tyres skip or scuff, the centre diff is locked. You can also check by jacking up a wheel and trying to turn it, whilst the engine is off and the main box is in neutral. Hi. Don't know if reply was sent. Wheels do "scuff" noticeably on loose tarmac - any ideas for unlocking centre diff? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted September 25, 2009 Share Posted September 25, 2009 You need to check the levers are re-connected (if they disconnected them) and that they are adjusted properly. I'd remove the panel under the centre seat/cubby and have a good look that the levers are working and that the switch is moveable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oitchy Posted October 8, 2009 Author Share Posted October 8, 2009 You need to check the levers are re-connected (if they disconnected them) and that they are adjusted properly. I'd remove the panel under the centre seat/cubby and have a good look that the levers are working and that the switch is moveable. Hi, thanks for the reply. I've been back to France to get it and went back to the garage with my concerns etc but they were hopeless/unhelpful. I've (stupidly) driven back the 200 miles and noticed a bit of clutch judder in 1st after along stint on the autoroute - that seems to have gone away now, but there's quite a bit of oil around the transfer gearbox (it was never the cleanest oilwise, but this is new) and the newly fitted bellhousing. I also tried the difflock in all the different "configurations" and got scared ****less - it didn't behave at all right, extreme difficulty getting it in and out etc... Dunno if the things locked or not now, also, needless to say no difflock light and parking brake warning light's gone too. I'd be grateful if any more ideas/help are forthcoming ....I'm depressed; it's been a long day. Best etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean f Posted October 9, 2009 Share Posted October 9, 2009 Hi, thanks for the reply. I've been back to France to get it and went back to the garage with my concerns etc but they were hopeless/unhelpful. I've (stupidly) driven back the 200 miles and noticed a bit of clutch judder in 1st after along stint on the autoroute - that seems to have gone away now, but there's quite a bit of oil around the transfer gearbox (it was never the cleanest oilwise, but this is new) and the newly fitted bellhousing. I also tried the difflock in all the different "configurations" and got scared ****less - it didn't behave at all right, extreme difficulty getting it in and out etc... Dunno if the things locked or not now, also, needless to say no difflock light and parking brake warning light's gone too. I'd be grateful if any more ideas/help are forthcoming ....I'm depressed; it's been a long day. Best etc If it has been done by a garage that don't know what they are doing check that they haven't drained the oil then filled only the gearbox or the transfer box not both. I doubt they would have split them or drained the oil unless you asked but depending on the kit they have its some times easier to remove the gearbox and tranfer box seperately to do the clutch in which case the oils may have been drained. I have seen several cases where only the main gearbox has been refilled and the transfer box left dry one by an apparently proffesional mechanic. To check if the difflock is stuck in chock the wheels then with it out of gear and the hand brake off (hence the wheel chock) jack one wheel off the ground you should be able to turn it although it maybe stiff, if it is locked then the difflock is engaged. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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