rustynuts Posted October 5, 2009 Share Posted October 5, 2009 Hi All, Had been noticing for the last couple of weeks that coolant has been dripping from the water pump on my 92 200 tdi 110. Have been keeping a eye on it, but when i got home today it was really poring out. It appears to be coming from the centre. Is it best to replace the the entire pump, or can they be refurbed?? If replacing whats good and whats not, seen them priced from £120 to £30. Any advice is well appreciated. Have tried searching the tech archive and there doesn't seem to be anything on this. Cheers Rustynuts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustynuts Posted October 6, 2009 Author Share Posted October 6, 2009 Guess I'll just buy new one. Are the cheap ones any good? and does anyone know what size spanner i need for the viscous coupling? Any help much appreciated, really need to get the 110 back on the road. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markyboy Posted October 6, 2009 Share Posted October 6, 2009 I don't think the water pump is serviceable. Therefore, you will have to replace it. As regards which one to fit, don't fit Br*tpart. Other than that I think £130 seems very expensive, there must be much cheaper good quality alternatives out there. Look for OE supplier quality. Regarding the viscous fan coupling, you probably need to get the correct spanner, there is a 32mm and a 36mm, I think it may be the bigger of the 2 which fits the defender but I couldn't swear to it, . HTH Mark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adam300Tdi90 Posted October 6, 2009 Share Posted October 6, 2009 It's the 32mm on a defender. Buy this one, or similar (I found on in Halfords) Viscous fan spanner BTW I think that I have just fitted a britpart item (paddocks...The one I bought...? THIS IS A 300TDI ITEM 200tdi), and compared to the old one, it was the same. Can't comment on bearing life tho' i s'pose. The viscous fan thread is backwards, tap spanner with a hammer With the belt still on then always replace the belt, just to do things right... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted October 6, 2009 Share Posted October 6, 2009 i just used a chisel to get the fan off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustynuts Posted October 6, 2009 Author Share Posted October 6, 2009 Thanks everyone, can get on and sort it out now. Think I'll just try a cheapy, I know,'buy cheap, buy twice' but needs must. Not sure about the chisel though, which part did you thwack! lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adam300Tdi90 Posted October 6, 2009 Share Posted October 6, 2009 very brittle bearing parts.. but if you want to replace the viscous assembly earlier than you normally might, smack it with hammer... Otherwise use the right tools... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TD5 power Posted October 6, 2009 Share Posted October 6, 2009 hi I would advise against the britpart pump my mate fitted one and it lasted all of 1 month before leaking again, try and get a bearmach one as their parts have a much better reputation than britpart. matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustynuts Posted October 8, 2009 Author Share Posted October 8, 2009 Thanks Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustynuts Posted October 19, 2009 Author Share Posted October 19, 2009 Hi all, finally about to fit my new water pump. Thing is i don't have a torque gauge, should i worry about how tight i do the bolts/nuts up? bearing in mind that i am not a ham fist-ed hillbilly, no offence to ham fist-ed hillbilly's! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted October 20, 2009 Share Posted October 20, 2009 Just do them up reasonably tight - no grunting involved Grease the bolt shafts and thread as well to prevent siezure in the future. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustynuts Posted October 24, 2009 Author Share Posted October 24, 2009 Well hit a snag, the usual seized bolts on the water pump, top three. Don't want to force them to much, as can't bare to shear them. Any advice? Normally I would apply some heat to a seized bolt, would it be ok to use this method on the water pump? Cheers Rusty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted October 24, 2009 Share Posted October 24, 2009 Whack the heads of the bolts a few times with a hammer to break the rust seal. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marco Posted October 25, 2009 Share Posted October 25, 2009 I've made it into an annual workshop job on my 200Tdi, replacing the timing belt and water pump as default. Dayco belt and non genuine pump, if needed I do fit a new OEM tensioner too and genuine oil seals for camshaft, crank and cover. For refitting I do use a flexible sealant (black). I've been lucky: http://www.marcodela...00tdi-defender/ (my blog) This year I've also replaced all front cover + water pump bolts. They are cheap to buy an replacing them will make it much easier to dismantle the cover and pump next time. I do advice to invest into a good quality torque wrench. Cheers Marco Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustynuts Posted October 25, 2009 Author Share Posted October 25, 2009 Hi again, thanks for your replies Les and Marco. still struggling to get the bolts out! Any more suggestions? They are really seized. Will it be ok to apply some heat?? And if one of them does shear off, do i need to drill the remaining bolt out and use a thread extractor?? Thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marco Posted October 25, 2009 Share Posted October 25, 2009 Suggest to start with soaking in WD40 or similar. You can try heat not sure if that will work, never needed it myself. They are screwed into the cast iron engine block and that's were they normally seize. Length about 80 ~ 100mm (by head). If they shear of that's going to be a problem, depending on where they sheer off. Not sure about the strength of the bolts think they 8.8 or stronger/higher. . Cheers Marco Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustynuts Posted October 25, 2009 Author Share Posted October 25, 2009 Have been soaking it for the last couple of days with WD40. It's the top three bolts that are the problem, two of them have open backs and these seem to be well and truely fast, the other is top right bolt, this seems to go in to the block. Can't comment on the latter but the other two bolts must only be 50mm max in length if that! It's always the simple things that are the biggest hassle. Has anyone had similar troubles? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marco Posted October 26, 2009 Share Posted October 26, 2009 Maybe you can post a picture of the part with the bolts, that might help? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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