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Flooded Defender 110 TD5 in the Philippines. Help!


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Hi. I'm starting this thread in the hopes of getting tips from other enthusiasts on how to proceed with getting my TD5 and Puma Defenders back on the trails! We we're out of the country when the big storm came 2 weeks ago and flooded much of Metro Manila including my street where my TDi, TD5 and Puma were parked. Mechanic changed oil and quickly got my TDi up and running. Not so fortunate with the TD5 and Puma. Flooding was up to the roof.

Local dealer is swamped with other LRs and Jaguars and only my Puma was able to get in for service. After 1 week I decided to break the seals on my TD5's ECU and as expected it was corroded inside. I tried to clean it and afterwards spray with contact cleaner. Installed it but engine will not turn the check engine sign lights up. I will have to order ECU from Singappore. I was wondering if anyone has had experience with a flooded TD5 and could advise on what else to purchase. I think my alarm may still be activated and may prevent my engine from starting. I opened the alarm computer behind the instrument cluster and dried and sprayed it. Seems clean but may need to be replaced also but I won't know until I install a new ECU.

Have replaced gear oil and transfer case gearbox, transfer case and differential oils while waiting for engine to start.

Thanks in advance for any help.

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If the engine ECU has water in it then it will probably be finished, likewise the alarm ECU which is behind the speedo binnacle on a Td5 will also be finished, you will need to replace one or probably both of these and the vehicle will need to go onto a diagnostic computer to program the injector grades and resync the alarm and engine immobilisation codes to let it run. Same comments apply as on the other thread about sensors, water in fuel etc. Starter motor etc will probably also be knackered.

A good rule of thumb with electronics and water is that if something gets wet and you can disconnect the power quickly, a rinse with clean cold water and dry out thoroughly will often let it survive (mobile phones being a prime example - I've drowned two and they are both still going!) - however if it gets wet and spends any time with power running through it then it is usually wrecked.

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If the engine ECU has water in it then it will probably be finished, likewise the alarm ECU which is behind the speedo binnacle on a Td5 will also be finished, you will need to replace one or probably both of these and the vehicle will need to go onto a diagnostic computer to program the injector grades and resync the alarm and engine immobilisation codes to let it run. Same comments apply as on the other thread about sensors, water in fuel etc. Starter motor etc will probably also be knackered.

A good rule of thumb with electronics and water is that if something gets wet and you can disconnect the power quickly, a rinse with clean cold water and dry out thoroughly will often let it survive (mobile phones being a prime example - I've drowned two and they are both still going!) - however if it gets wet and spends any time with power running through it then it is usually wrecked.

Thanks Bog, a voice of reason in my LRs darkest hours. I will purchase both Engine and Alarm ECUs and replace the drowned ones. Thanks for the advise on the injector programming and alarm resync and immob- codes. Will advise the local dealer service shop.

I question I'd like to ask (as a way of dispelling my fears), do you feel confident that when the electronics of my engines are replaced they will indeed run again? My TDi is running well and it is my hope that the TD5 and the Puma will be up and running in due time. :rolleyes:

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I found an engine ECU paired with an AS10 security unit on ebay being sold by KDlandrovers. The site says that this ECU will fit any TD5 engine. I was wondering if anyone could tell me if I do buy this item whether it will work with my TD5 engine?

Thanks in advance.

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Hi. I'm starting this thread in the hopes of getting tips from other enthusiasts on how to proceed with getting my TD5 and Puma Defenders back on the trails! We we're out of the country when the big storm came 2 weeks ago and flooded much of Metro Manila including my street where my TDi, TD5 and Puma were parked. Mechanic changed oil and quickly got my TDi up and running. Not so fortunate with the TD5 and Puma. Flooding was up to the roof.

Local dealer is swamped with other LRs and Jaguars and only my Puma was able to get in for service. After 1 week I decided to break the seals on my TD5's ECU and as expected it was corroded inside. I tried to clean it and afterwards spray with contact cleaner. Installed it but engine will not turn the check engine sign lights up. I will have to order ECU from Singappore. I was wondering if anyone has had experience with a flooded TD5 and could advise on what else to purchase. I think my alarm may still be activated and may prevent my engine from starting. I opened the alarm computer behind the instrument cluster and dried and sprayed it. Seems clean but may need to be replaced also but I won't know until I install a new ECU.

Have replaced gear oil and transfer case gearbox, transfer case and differential oils while waiting for engine to start.

Thanks in advance for any help.

I drowned the nas many years ago and fixed the ECU mainly because within hours I cleaned it. After 1 week I think you have lost the battle.

The cleaning procedure I used was to carefully clean the tracks and components with DEMINERALISED water (same as battery top-up) most important because tap water may have too many mineral solids. Cotton buds and a wash bottle are useful to get in the nooks and crannies. Use an air blow to remove water and debris, only use a compressor if also fitted with a drier a much better option is to use an aerosol can of clean air. Then put the circuit board in your airing cupboard (get permission from SWMBO) for 24 hours to fully dry-out. Fit and test!

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I found an engine ECU paired with an AS10 security unit on ebay being sold by KDlandrovers. The site says that this ECU will fit any TD5 engine. I was wondering if anyone could tell me if I do buy this item whether it will work with my TD5 engine?

Thanks in advance.

Yes and no. You need to think about 2 things;

1) you will need to take off the rocker cover, read off the injector grades and program them into the new ECU so you will need a computer anyway

and

2) it may fit any engine if it is the new NNNxxxxxx ecu part number but it will still need the right software for the age of vehicle to make it run properly, which again needs a computer to talk to it. If the ecu part number is MSBxxxxxx then it is for the older sort - 1999/00/01 model year. I'm not really sure what happens if you plug an old type ECU into a new type engine, or a new type flash ECU programmed for an 02 onwards vehicle, into an old type engine. As above Porny may be able to assist though he hasn't been on much lately.

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Hi!

My 110 TD5 is MY -99, but I have changed a used NNN ECU for it, because I have programmed a tuning software into it.

When I first tried the newer ECU, it worked right away, even without programming the Injector codes. Why, I just don´t know, but it did and it also run flawlessly when I was driving it. But for shure, the right method is to program the Injector codes into it by using T4, Nanocom or such, but the swap will work!And of course you should program the new chassis number etc on it, but that doesn´t affect it´s functioning. BUT! if you by a new ECU, it comes empty, so you must get it programmed by someone who has access to T4 and has the latest program updates. You don´t need to buy a new alarms ECU if it´s not dead, and if it is, it doesn´t have to be from the same vehicle, it will work without any programming, at least mine did. Correct me if I´m wrong...

Good Luck, You will get it running!

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Yes and no. You need to think about 2 things;

1) you will need to take off the rocker cover, read off the injector grades and program them into the new ECU so you will need a computer anyway

and

2) it may fit any engine if it is the new NNNxxxxxx ecu part number but it will still need the right software for the age of vehicle to make it run properly, which again needs a computer to talk to it. If the ecu part number is MSBxxxxxx then it is for the older sort - 1999/00/01 model year. I'm not really sure what happens if you plug an old type ECU into a new type engine, or a new type flash ECU programmed for an 02 onwards vehicle, into an old type engine. As above Porny may be able to assist though he hasn't been on much lately.

Thank you for all your posts BogMonster. Things are getting a little more hopeful. Yes the ECU part number is NNN. And it comes with the 10AS which is a good buy I think. I just hope the ebay guy is on the level. I will try to contact seller and bring in the part. I guess I can ask the local service dealer the computer programming.

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Hi!

My 110 TD5 is MY -99, but I have changed a used NNN ECU for it, because I have programmed a tuning software into it.

When I first tried the newer ECU, it worked right away, even without programming the Injector codes. Why, I just don´t know, but it did and it also run flawlessly when I was driving it. But for shure, the right method is to program the Injector codes into it by using T4, Nanocom or such, but the swap will work!And of course you should program the new chassis number etc on it, but that doesn´t affect it´s functioning. BUT! if you by a new ECU, it comes empty, so you must get it programmed by someone who has access to T4 and has the latest program updates. You don´t need to buy a new alarms ECU if it´s not dead, and if it is, it doesn´t have to be from the same vehicle, it will work without any programming, at least mine did. Correct me if I´m wrong...

Good Luck, You will get it running!

Hi Pete, thanks for the words of encouragement.The ECU I'm getting is for a Land Rover Defender TD5 ECU with Performance Remap and comes paired with the security AS10. I'm hoping it will plug and play. My TD5 is still parked in my garage since the local LR dealer can't accept it right now due to the number of cars they're working on. So, when I get the ECU I'll plug it in myself and hope it fires. My TD5 is equipped with power lock so I don't know if that's an issue with a new AS10.

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Hi Pete, thanks for the words of encouragement.The ECU I'm getting is for a Land Rover Defender TD5 ECU with Performance Remap and comes paired with the security AS10. I'm hoping it will plug and play. My TD5 is still parked in my garage since the local LR dealer can't accept it right now due to the number of cars they're working on. So, when I get the ECU I'll plug it in myself and hope it fires. My TD5 is equipped with power lock so I don't know if that's an issue with a new AS10.

Let´s hope for the best and fear for the worst... <_< If your dealer is so busy, maybe you should consider getting a Nanocom or such, you get to do everything else except changing the Vin # to the ECU, thinking ´bout the Injector codes :unsure: I also have a power lock if you mean that Engine Immobilizer, but strangely it also just worked and did not immobilize the engine, or do you mean central locking? Both worked, also both are programmable via Nanocom, but what comes to a new AS10, some models and year models may or may not have differences in their programming considering the door central locking, not sure about that, should it be specifically for 110, don´t know... :(

Guru´s of the forum, we seek your advice...the knowledge is somewhere out there!

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Thanks for the advice on the nanocom. It's retailing for 191 pounds. I'll try to order online. I've already placed the order for the TD5 ECU which is a re-mapped reconditioned unit. I hope it holds up to years of use but first I hope it gets my TD5 running.

Sorry for the confusion. I meant central locking system. I have 3 remote control units but I have no idea if they'll work with the new AS10 ECU so I purchased a remote unit to be synced with the ECU so when it gets to me I hope it will activate the central locking of the vehicle.

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open the dash. there are a few different wave length listed one of which being 315Mhz. you will need to find the correct fob unit to work with the frequency listed.

you will be able to sync the fob to the 10AS unit thru the nanocom. there are 2 variants of the 10AS unit one with CDL and the one without. if you get the one without CDL (central door lock), you might be able to arm the 10AS unit and imob the engine, but the doors won't lock. in that case you might decide to fit an external CDL unit and set the 10AS to 'dumb' mode.

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open the dash. there are a few different wave length listed one of which being 315Mhz. you will need to find the correct fob unit to work with the frequency listed.

you will be able to sync the fob to the 10AS unit thru the nanocom. there are 2 variants of the 10AS unit one with CDL and the one without. if you get the one without CDL (central door lock), you might be able to arm the 10AS unit and imob the engine, but the doors won't lock. in that case you might decide to fit an external CDL unit and set the 10AS to 'dumb' mode.

There you go! ;)

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open the dash. there are a few different wave length listed one of which being 315Mhz. you will need to find the correct fob unit to work with the frequency listed.

you will be able to sync the fob to the 10AS unit thru the nanocom. there are 2 variants of the 10AS unit one with CDL and the one without. if you get the one without CDL (central door lock), you might be able to arm the 10AS unit and imob the engine, but the doors won't lock. in that case you might decide to fit an external CDL unit and set the 10AS to 'dumb' mode.

Hi Andrew, thanks for the info. Do you live in the Philippines? I already bought a reconditioned re-mapped ECU paired with an 10AS unit from ebay. I also asked the seller to include a remote unit (is that the FOB) synced to the 10AS so that I don't have to fiddle around with it too much.

With the nanocom would I be able to sync the 2 existing fobs that came with the car? I guess that would be true only if the fobs are the same frequency as the 10AS right?

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you will need to check the 10AS unit frequency (there's a large lable on it) and check your remote/fob unit (should state on the back, tiny sticker or when you open it up, inside) to see if they are the same. if they aren't, you can't sync them. there should be 3 variants if i didn't remember wrongly.

i'm located in singapore.

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you will need to check the 10AS unit frequency (there's a large lable on it) and check your remote/fob unit (should state on the back, tiny sticker or when you open it up, inside) to see if they are the same. if they aren't, you can't sync them. there should be 3 variants if i didn't remember wrongly.

i'm located in singapore.

Thanks Andrew, I checked the FOB but no sticker and nothing written inside. I'll have to check the 10AS unit. Would you be Richard's brother of Nam Seng Land Rover Parts?

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Ha ha, no. i'm one of his regular customers.

Oh ok. I was able to get a quote from him for the Puma's ECU requirements. Much cheaper than here but not readily available and will take about a month to bring in. Will try to expedite things with our local dealer.

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