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How long to swap a rear 110 axle


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My 1984 110 has a rear Salisbury axle with drum brakes. I Bought a later 110 Salisbury axle with disc brakes from a forum member. I plan to have a go at swapping it over hopefully next weekend and am hoping for any hints and tips. A guy I know is letting me use his garage so I have access to a 4 post lift if needed, good jacks etc.

Last weekend I gave all the bolts that looked connected to the axle a good soaking with WD40 so hopefully that will help.

How long a job may this be to do and are there any tricky bits and methods that may help me to know? Am I best using the lift or just the concrete floor? :blink:

Thanks Dominic

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Frist thing to think about is, how long have the shocks been on there as they often prove very difficult to remove (well mine did) and i had to cut them off which means you may need some new shocks to hand, the rest off it, well it is a land rover so if everything undoes nicely you have the break pipes, propshaft, springs, shocks, and probably more as i have never done this, not sure if the brake hoses are different on a disc braked axle, hope this helps

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Like the sound of "if it all goes nicely, you can do it in half an hour easily". Usually sods law doesnt help me but we shall see and hopefully..... :) Once the job is done I will post an update to say how long it took and if everything went well or not!

I have new springs and shocks to go on but not thought about the brake pipes. I have 2" lift springs so I guess a pair of braided longer hoses would be good to have before starting the job.

Are there any bushes etc that are must to get for this job or is it a case of looking at bushes during the swap over and and dodgy ones could easily be replaced later?

I will use the lift to crack of bolts etc, would it be best to perform the swap over on the 4 post lift or would this make it more difficult?

Thanx Dom

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Err depends... if you have polybushes fitted then changing them is dead easy, rubber ones can put up a hell of a fight if they are inclined and you're unlikely to take them alive! with the vehicle on the floor loosen but dont undo completely the A frame ball joint nut, the trailing arm - axle nuts, spring retainers, shock nuts, remove the rear prop, disconnect the rear brake flexi. Chock the front wheels both sides to stop any movement. Jack the back end up (i use an engine crane on the tow pack) til its nice and high then axle stands under the chassis. leave the wheels on and you can undo the nuts and roll it out backwards...

Refitting is the reverse of removal...

obviously if you're replacing bits you may need to modify the above, and make sure its SAFE before you go climbing underneath it, they can get a bit precarious on stands...

Finally, dont fully tighten the suspension nuts/bolts up until the car is back on the ground with its weight on the suspension

Mike

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Thanks for the update, good tip about leaving the wheels on, I would have probably struggled a bit without the wheels on and now you have said it, its quite obvious!!

Well I will use the lift to loosen everything then as you suggest use the garage floor to peform the swap. If its not this Saturday coming then it will be the following one and I will post an update :) Think I will leave the bushes for now, it currently hasn't got polybushes fitted. I will check the old ones during the swap and will probably plan for a polybush upgrade at a later date.

Cheers

Dominic

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Bear in mind that if the bolts are seized into the bushes (radius arm to axle) then you'll need new bushes and new bolts to put it back together with. Personally I'd check them before turning up at the garage then you can have spares with you before chopping the bolts, either that or just buy them beforehand anyway as you'll use them eventually if not now.

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gas axe and very long axle stands where another boon when I did mine as well as making sure I had plenty of spares as already said. I put new bushes and a-frame ball joint on prior to the axle which made things easier. The ball joint holder bolts tend to be rusted in btw

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