Niamh Posted January 24, 2010 Share Posted January 24, 2010 We're just trying to do a timing belt change and the crankshaft bolt is proving extremely reluctant to come off, for example the starter motor trick fails. We've tried a 2' breaker bar with a bit of steel pipe slipped over it to give about 3' of leverage but it won't budge. So the question is how much more leverage can we try before there is any danger of shearing the bolt? Niamh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted January 24, 2010 Share Posted January 24, 2010 No danger at all that is a massive bolt with a fine thread. I am surprised the clutch is not slipping with a bar as big as that. try the starter motor with the bar a short way from the chassis leg(protect this with a block of wood) this may help to shock the bolt free. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niamh Posted January 24, 2010 Author Share Posted January 24, 2010 No danger at all that is a massive bolt with a fine thread. The thought did cross my mind as I was lying in the bath just now that I was more likely to kill the 1/2" breaker bar before shearing the bolt. I am surprised the clutch is not slipping with a bar as big as that. I suspect it was a touch as easing off the pressure on the bar got it returning to about 15 degree off the initial starting position. try the starter motor with the bar a short way from the chassis leg(protect this with a block of wood) this may help to shock the bolt free. Which chassis leg would you use, top of passenger side, or bottom of driver side? Niamh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted January 24, 2010 Share Posted January 24, 2010 I too struggled to undo this bolt as the starter motor trick failed me too. I also tried a long bar ( which also failed ) and was tempted to try a scaffolding pole however my local mechanic had access to a pneumatic gun which was the biggest one in his armoury. Even that took 3 or 4 goes before the bolt would move. It really is a pig to shift. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niamh Posted January 24, 2010 Author Share Posted January 24, 2010 however my local mechanic had access to a pneumatic gun which was the biggest one in his armoury. Even that took 3 or 4 goes before the bolt would move. Well we could strip off the front, rad, oil cooler and intercooler and try the 3/4" impact wrench... Niamh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
milliejasper1111 Posted January 24, 2010 Share Posted January 24, 2010 I can vouch for that, done my belt yesterday, plus a rear diff. And yes what an absolute B*****D of a job to get it undone Rest of it was a breeze, good luck on yours though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithjh Posted January 24, 2010 Share Posted January 24, 2010 We're just trying to do a timing belt change and the crankshaft bolt is proving extremely reluctant to come off, for example the starter motor trick fails. We've tried a 2' breaker bar with a bit of steel pipe slipped over it to give about 3' of leverage but it won't budge. So the question is how much more leverage can we try before there is any danger of shearing the bolt? Niamh Oxy/acet get it nice and hot to melt the probable locking compound that some ar==hole has used then it will come off with the starter Keith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niamh Posted January 24, 2010 Author Share Posted January 24, 2010 Oxy/acet get it nice and hot to melt the probable locking compound that some ar==hole has used then it will come off with the starter Keith Haynes says locking compound should be used though! Niamh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
milliejasper1111 Posted January 24, 2010 Share Posted January 24, 2010 Im all for that in the right places, but as long as its done up at the right torque it should not be an issue (for the next person to remove) Some people use the stuff like glue though, and make things a nightmare for the next owner. I done a cam belt on a mates car not long ago, and someone must have used a whole pot of the stuff before putting the bolt back in. like Keith said the gas has to come into play then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niamh Posted January 25, 2010 Author Share Posted January 25, 2010 If one has to heat it what do you heat? The bolt head? and how hot? Niamh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niamh Posted January 25, 2010 Author Share Posted January 25, 2010 3/4" impact wrench isn't touching either Niamh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niamh Posted January 25, 2010 Author Share Posted January 25, 2010 Well the 2' Breaker bar snapped! Niamh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
milliejasper1111 Posted January 25, 2010 Share Posted January 25, 2010 Just apply gentle heat for about 30seconds, should be enough to melt any thread lock thats been used, if not warm it up again for a little longer and try again. It should crack off then? just a thought you are undoing it the right way??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milemarker Type S Posted January 25, 2010 Share Posted January 25, 2010 I had this issue with 2 engines that were not in vehicles- starter trick was out then! One came undone with a decent 12v impact gun and the other did eventually when I heated the bolt head and washer with a blowtorch- didn't need to be massively hot just enough to melt the thread lock. As has been said the threadlock is supposed to be there- ever seen the end of a crank and woodruff key when the bolt works loose... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niamh Posted February 2, 2010 Author Share Posted February 2, 2010 Right, it took a 1" breaker bar and a 6' scaffolding pipe with 2 people hanging off the end of it. A rough calculation says something like 2,500ftlb! Niamh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheltie50 Posted February 3, 2010 Share Posted February 3, 2010 As you found the 1/2" drive isnt strong enough, need 1", swinging it on the starter against the chassis should work if the battery is good, had to put jump leads on the last one I did just to get a good swing. If you use heat dont get it too hot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adam300Tdi90 Posted February 3, 2010 Share Posted February 3, 2010 Read Les' Cambelt replacement tech write up. He suggests using a metal plate with two holes drilled in it, two long m8 bolts and a socket. I used this method and it worked perfectly, with the engine disconnected! see here EDIT: OOps, sorry I thought you were trying to get the pulley off, not the bolt itself. Using a breaker bar, put pressure on it till it bends, then get someone else to tap the bar closer to the socket, worked for me... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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