Somethingwitty Posted February 15, 2010 Share Posted February 15, 2010 Its all pretty much standard at the moment but I'm considering various fettling options. I currently have the majority of parts to fit a gearbox oil cooler (spend a lot of time flat out on the motorway and accelerating hard otherwise) but I'm pretty sure that any of the full size intercoolers inhabit the very space my gearbox cooler would - has anyone fitted both? I have thought of an upgraded core to the standard cooler but I'm worried that I won't get much from it and it spends most of its life on full boost. Vague thoughts of using an aircon front panel but have little time to investigate at the moment - thoughts please? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TSD Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 I have a tell-tale label on the bottom of the R380 (no oil cooler) in my Ibex. Despite spending most of its life on the motorway at errmmm 'about' 70mph the gearbox casing has never gone above 82C, so I can't imagine the oil has got out of it's safe range ever. That's with a 1.22 transfer box pulling 33" tyres. (I fitted the label to see if I needed a cooler.) Unless your truck is much heavier than a standard 90, or you spend a lot of time towing or in hot countries, I suspect the gearbox cooler is guilding the lilly (or polishing a t**d - choose your own favourite metaphor ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Somethingwitty Posted February 17, 2010 Author Share Posted February 17, 2010 TSD, The lilly sounds a bit to elegant, the T*rd it is! Interesting, I hadn't planned on doing anything without measuring the temp first but didnt want to paint myself into a corner. Ive been thru a couple of mainboxes so was hoping some cooling would help - with ATF it used to come out pretty dark, nof on MTF 94 so a bit better. Thanks for the tip, will look out for some temp stickers... Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 I have a standard sized up'm told there's 7 BHP difference between that one and a full sized one. I also have a 13 row gearbox oil cooler. That sits very low at the front below the radiator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TSD Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 Thanks for the tip, will look out for some temp stickers... I've been through a few boxes too, hence the labels. I splashed out on Castrol SMX-S fully synthetic oil at the last change (of gearbox), but I doubt that's made a huge difference to temperatures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tacr2man Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 I would suggest you go to Redline synthetic mtf , as it will handle temps a great deal better than dino oils. As said gearbox oil cooler is a bit ott . I ran a 130dc hcpu in OZ with 300tdi and redline. It had to run at mgtw quite often (7450kg) in 40C and did well over 200000k with no gearbox problems . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JST Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 use some good quality ATF that will help if your not already using it. How about a D1 autobox cooler as a man gbox cooler. very thin and fits just below the bonnet slam as std on a D1. would fit with a bigger intercooler i would of thought. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigSi110 Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 Jon at Brunel now offers a standard-size uprated intercooler with an improved matrix that gets another 5bhp over his previous model. So that brings the bhp gap between an uprated side-mount and a full-width front mounted one to 2bhp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bull Bar Cowboy Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 I've been through a few boxes too, hence the labels. I splashed out on Castrol SMX-S fully synthetic oil at the last change (of gearbox), but I doubt that's made a huge difference to temperatures. Maybe adds nothing to the cooling but the lubrication is a whole load better.............. I ran an Ashcroft rebuilt LT77S with the temperature switch fitted (different side housing) and even being pushed hard with the V8 it never got hot enough to operate the switch ............. that gearbox always ran well on SMX-S........ I am not so sure heat is an issue with the manual boxes .......... probably its a lot more to do with lubrication.. Also, I think the heat felt around the tunnel maybe misleading as to the box oil temperature …….. a lot of the heat is ‘soak’ from the engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 Bull Bar Cowboy I'jm not so sure about where the heat comes from On our first trip to southern Africa I get badly burnt on my left leg from the heat off the seatbox. For the next trip I fitted a gearbox oil cooler. I didn't really notice much difference. On our third trip I'd fitted an X-Brake and there didn't seem to be any heat from the seatbox So is the heat coming from the handbraked drum and being pushed forward by the drum as it revolves meeting the heat from the engine and building up in the sreat box ? Food for thought ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JST Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 Bull Bar Cowboy I'jm not so sure about where the heat comes from On our first trip to southern Africa I get badly burnt on my left leg from the heat off the seatbox. For the next trip I fitted a gearbox oil cooler. I didn't really notice much difference. On our third trip I'd fitted an X-Brake and there didn't seem to be any heat from the seatbox So is the heat coming from the handbraked drum and being pushed forward by the drum as it revolves meeting the heat from the engine and building up in the sreat box ? Food for thought ? Mike, or is it the heat drawn up through the gearbox tunnel by having the window open? My td5 used to suffer with this, window or roof open and you get a hot transmission tunnel. close them and reduce the air flow, they cool down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 Not in this case 45 Deg C ambient temperature, Windows and flaps open Driving a dry river bed..Welll for three days anyway. I've had it said theat closing the window helps. I only do that at slow speeds. Most of the time both windows are open. I had it said to me "The only way to see Africa is with your arm on the door top" The other thing I've done is remove the center box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JST Posted February 18, 2010 Share Posted February 18, 2010 Not in this case 45 Deg C ambient temperature, Windows and flaps open Driving a dry river bed..Welll for three days anyway. Most of the time both windows are open. in that case i would say its certainly the case in my experience. but like you i agree you cant do it with the windows closed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cieranc Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 Vague thoughts of using an aircon front panel but have little time to investigate at the moment - thoughts please? Good luck with that. You're more likely to find a golden turd I pratted about getting my intercooler to fit exactly as I wanted it, and never gave a second thought as to the availability of the grill panel. I just assumed that, like any other LR bit, there'd be plenty of second hand ones kicking about. It took 3 months to track one down, and even then it was damaged and I had to repair it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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