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Waxoyl advice


monkeyb0y

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Hi All,

please can i have some advice on Waxoyl?..

Ive no experience with this, and after having done extensive reconstruction work with the welder on the usual areas (front inner wings , wheel arches, box sectioned new sills etc..) I want to try and use this product..

Ive treated all the "sandblast effect areas" with underseal...this was painted onto new primered metal...but areas such as the bottom of the the door pilars \ a-pillars where i had to cut back 4 inches or so, were also primered and undersealed...

My thoughts \ questions turn to the imediate areas above the new bits and inner areas where i know there is surface rust - maybe heavy developing, but cant get too...

If i spray waxoyl into the pillars and inside box sections - like the chassis (which is also looking bad on the surface) for instance where i know it is rusting from the inside out, how will this work?..

Will the waxoyl sit on top of the rust & stop it advanceing anymore by waterproofing the surface?...

Will it continue to rust as waxoyl is only effective on "sound \ good surfaces"

Can it be sprayed over underseal as extra protection?..

at best case, will it actually "attack" the rust and protect?..

Im just trying to find the best solution to the "rusting from the inside - out effect"..i know theres no miracle cure...

Any comments or suggestions would be appreciated.

I could research this by trawling the net - but id rather hear advice from friends on here with exactly the same probs as me - as i deem it to be better and more accurate :)

cheers

Rich

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If i spray waxoyl into the pillars and inside box sections - like the chassis (which is also looking bad on the surface) for instance where i know it is rusting from the inside out, how will this work?..

Will the waxoyl sit on top of the rust & stop it advanceing anymore by waterproofing the surface?...

Will it continue to rust as waxoyl is only effective on "sound \ good surfaces"

Can it be sprayed over underseal as extra protection?..

at best case, will it actually "attack" the rust and protect?..

As you suggest there is no "miracle cure" - in our environment cars do rust.

Waxoyl is (imho) one of the better methods. Personally I clean the chassis best I can (wire brush where needed/possible), then mix waxoyl with a splash of engine oil and a splash of white spirit, and get it into every part of the chassis I can get it onto! So far (after 8 years and 163000 miles) my chassis is in good condition (and it lives in Scotland where winters are arguably harsher) the car is remarkably rust free.

I would treat metal first with a decent paint as a base layer, then waxoyl thoroughly, topping-up the waxoyl annually (I do mine before winter on a warm autumn day so it is stays liquid whilst working with it).

I wouldn't personally suggest putting it on top of old underseal, just in case the water gets under the old underseal and allows the metal to rust without you being able to see it. Wire-brush anything loose off first. You don't need to eradicate all rust, as the waxoyl does seem to stop rust in it's tracks...

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I agree with the above. Wire brush off what you can, get it as clean as you can, and then spray with waxoyl. Waxoyl does "treat" rust as well.

Yes, you can spray it over underseal, just done this myself. I would undercoat or underseal, or repair any damaged/flaking paint before waxoyling.

I recently did my trailer and found the trick to spraying or brushing it on is making sure it is really thin. Just get it hot, no need for thinners etc - I used the slow cooker! Stand the can in it, fill with hot water, and leave in the slow cooker for 45 mins. The waxoyl goes almost like water. Put the slow cooker on an extension lead and take it outside - it'll stay hot whilst your spraying. Goes quite a long way like this as well.

I'd recommend driving onto a dust sheet and sticking newspaper around the sides etc as any fine mist/overspray seems to travel a long way! So cover brakes, exhaust, etc.

Wipes off easily with white spirits should you need to.

Leave as long as possible to dry. My trailer took about 5 days to become properly dry, sat under the car port. Try and do it when there's a few warm/dry days due and avoid driving in the wet until it's dry.

PS - Asda do slow cookers for £5 so cheap enough for keeping in the garage! If you don't have one just change the hot water every 10 mins for teh first hour, then every 15 mins whilst spraying. As I say, when it's hot it is just like water and sprays really easily, fine and even.

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In addition to the wise advice above...............................

Avoid the Waxoyl branded pump sprayer. There may be people who can make them work effectively, but I am certainly not one of them and I've struggled to find anyone else who has either! For a little more money, you can get a sprayer that will go in a body schutz (or similar) can with a long flexible attachment. Mine was from Machine Mart (look here).

Underseal first. It wont like sticking to Waxoyl!

Get the Waxoyl warm. Put the container in a bucket of hot water, leave it in the sun, run a fan heater near it, etc.

Be thorough. Insert the nozzle into holes in the chassis and turn the tube through 180 degrees as you pull it back. This ain't Feng Shui, where less is more! :P

Get a hot air gun and gently warm the outside of cavities, especially if you suspect surface rust inside. This will cause the Waxoyl to creep into any crusty bits, where it will inhibit (but not eliminate) further rust development.

Have fun!

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Here's a photo of the underside of my trailer. The runs are from the metal paint which was a PITA for running, not teh waxoyl. As you can see, this is one coat of waxoyl and I'm very happy with the result. I used the Waxoyl sprayer and had no problems with it.

Flushed through with white spirit afterwards. Again, because the waxoyl was hot it cleaned out easily.

post-12723-127195872826_thumb.jpg

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Here's a photo of the underside of my trailer. The runs are from the metal paint which was a PITA for running, not teh waxoyl. As you can see, this is one coat of waxoyl and I'm very happy with the result. I used the Waxoyl sprayer and had no problems with it.

Flushed through with white spirit afterwards. Again, because the waxoyl was hot it cleaned out easily.

There are two types of hand pump, the trigger spray one is RUBBISH and keeps blocking up but the one that screws into the top of the round cannister and works like a garden sprayer is the dogs danglies. You can always top up the cannister from the cheaper 5ltr tin. Good call on the slow cooker, hadn't thought of that, SWMBO will be impressed!

PS Mind the cat! hysterical.gifhysterical.gifhysterical.gif

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How much would it cost to do thw whole of my underside in waxoyl on discovery2 ?

a gallon of waxoil at £30 and an hours labour at say £40?

to a proper job using a few gallons and two or three hours, or one "specialist" will take £800 off you.

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