Mean Green Posted May 12, 2010 Share Posted May 12, 2010 Just fitted a new battery to 200tdi 90 as it would not start. New battery makes no difference - still only get slow crank then clicks from starter. Starts immediately when attached to jump battery - even with no revs on donor vehicle. Any ideas please... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puffernutter Posted May 12, 2010 Share Posted May 12, 2010 Where is the "jump" battery connected? Directly across the car battery or somewhere else? Cheers Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iomlt Posted May 12, 2010 Share Posted May 12, 2010 i had a similar thing on mine, turned out to be the batter Terminals. (wire going in to the battery terminals) cut and new ones on perfect Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
errol209 Posted May 12, 2010 Share Posted May 12, 2010 Just fitted a new battery to 200tdi 90 as it would not start. New battery makes no difference - still only get slow crank then clicks from starter. Starts immediately when attached to jump battery - even with no revs on donor vehicle. Any ideas please... Check the earth strap from engine to chassis, and the battery connection to the gearbox. Where are you connecting the jump lead earth to? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mean Green Posted May 12, 2010 Author Share Posted May 12, 2010 I am connecting battery from donor 90 directly to "broken" 90 - ie donor "+" to broken "+" and donor "-" to broken "-" starts without any cranking and without waiting for glow plugs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
errol209 Posted May 12, 2010 Share Posted May 12, 2010 I am connecting battery from donor 90 directly to "broken" 90 - ie donor "+" to broken "+" and donor "-" to broken "-" starts without any cranking and without waiting for glow plugs. Sounds like the "new" battery is completely flat! Try leaving the jump leads on with both cars running for 30 minutes, or stick it on the charger overnight. (also make sure the battery terminals are clean (careful use of wire brush) and the cable clamps are firmly done up) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted May 12, 2010 Share Posted May 12, 2010 I am connecting battery from donor 90 directly to "broken" 90 - ie donor "+" to broken "+" and donor "-" to broken "-" starts without any cranking and without waiting for glow plugs. Sounds like you either have bought a duff battery (try putting a volt meter on it to see what its pushing out, should be in the region of 12+ volts) or the inside of the battery clamp contacts are uber corroded and are not connecting properly to the terminal, get some sand paper on them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mean Green Posted May 12, 2010 Author Share Posted May 12, 2010 Great suggestions - Thanks. Now how do I test for them and find out what is wrong? I had already thought of the battery and tried the meter - I showed 12.6V. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted May 13, 2010 Share Posted May 13, 2010 Ok, you've established the battery is ok. and the starter is ok, so its somwhere in the wireing between the 2. Try putting a volt meter on the starter +ve and the engine earthing strap (engine off) you should see something around 12.6v. You could have a damaged main cable to starter motor thats temprimental? get someone to try the ignition while you wiggle wires? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Brock Posted May 13, 2010 Share Posted May 13, 2010 Did you test the voltage cranking ? 12.6 volts at rest could drop very fast if you have a duff cell in which case it wont turn it over !!! You need to see what the voltage is under load Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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