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A level design tech project


series3100

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Over christmas i made a new rear cross member for my 90 to house a winch and a couple of recovery points. i could email some pics and drawings that i made to you if you want.

That would be great thanks.

I have a rough idea in my head of the final piece, For example the tapers on the end are going to be longer than normal giving a sharper look but obviously I cabn't dive straight in i have to go through all sortds of designs and prototypes first in order to gain full marks...

Cheers, Brian

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Right, In order to do this project i have to get feedback from real people / preson throughout the process of designing and manufacturing. I'm going to build it to more or less the spec I listed in one of the previous post. Really what I need is someone who agrees with that spec, or maybe any other additional bits too that people can think off then as i go along i will either post up here or email CAD drawings and actual photos etc and ask for feedback as if you were a customer and i was building it for you. I guess i could have more than one person being the main 'customer' and I'm happy for anyone to give me ideas and general feedback etc.

So the basic spec is (I'm yet to do any real measuring or anything though) :

Heavy duty, (undecided on actual wall thicknes)

Longer taper on ends than std cross-memeber

2x first four swivelling recovery eye (in-line with chassis rails)

2x Gu5.3 lights built

Quick(ish) realease drop-plate to fit over and clear the fairlead

winch tray mounted behind the crossmember (suitable for budget winches)

steel roller fairlead

Sealed construction (as far as possible anyway)

I think that's^^^ about it

I was thinking 5mm wall box/rectangle section, it'll be very heavy but that goes with the name heavy duty :rolleyes:, 5mm also makes using fitting the swivel eyes easy too.

Comments, ideas, "that's idiotic" all welcome :D

Cheers,

Brian

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I have just started building my second 'HD' x member today, i bought a length of 160x60(i think)x5x7500 box. This is nearest off the shelf size to the standard crossmember.

The heavy wall thickness makes welding bits to it a rather pleasurable experience as you give it some high amp MIG lovin :ph34r: Here are some pics of the one i've just finished making for my dads hi-cap.

1.jpg

2.jpg

4.jpg

3.jpg

A longer taper might look good but you'll soon start running into problems with the chassis legs ending up in mid air. Also if its a none standard silhouette will it need an IVA or whatever its called this week.

How about including points for anderson connenctors, cleaning channels and even protecting the corners of the tub, making the crossmember wider maybe or specific add on protection.

Will.

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I did a BTEC Nat cert in engineering and although the only thing i would say is dont go too made-whilst you need to prove something that shows your ability, dont over complicate it as it then makes it harder to justify all your design and build decisions and you end up penalising yourself.

Another idea is to build something that you dont specifically want/need-ie i didnt build anything land rover related. with things like that often your design process misses steps as you "get excited".

I made a kelly kettle/inferno kettle type design-milling, turning, folding, rolling, welding, working to a standard (utensils for food or human consumption or something!) and then all the theory of working out my internal angles acording to heat draw and thermal loss.

again, go wild, just my experience

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Howz about some defender front fog lamps? I have seen these in a shadow bumper before but they where a frankly silly price as you had to buy the bumper as well.

Im pretty sure it could be an interesting project to develop and something with a strong potential to market to all landrover users as lets face it our high mounted normal lights are pretty **** when it comes to foggy winter days.

Cheers

Ryck

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