Beretta Posted October 4, 2010 Share Posted October 4, 2010 Hi again everybody. Had a problem early in the year where it would not start after fitting a new battery, eventually after god knows how mainy recodes EKA's it started and has been ok, now 3 months later the battery went flat this week, i thought not going to have a problem again disconnecting battery so i trickle charged it, It started first flick then died i've got the same problem back again. It will start but will not rev at all, just half ticking over it then cuts out. It was ok when i tried it last week, now this b.......y problem has reared it's ugly head again. Have you fine gents got any ideas please this thing is really dogging me off. Bryn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveRK Posted October 4, 2010 Share Posted October 4, 2010 The first thing to check is whether the battery voltage is getting up to at least 12 volts as a minimum once the engine is running. Having charged the battery it has enough capacity to start but the ECU will need 12Volts to manage the various sensors and engine management systems. Normal battery voltage with engine running is between 13.8 and 14.3 volts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beretta Posted October 5, 2010 Author Share Posted October 5, 2010 Hi Steve Thanks for replying, when it failed to run after charging the battery and recodeing the damn thing, i disconnected the battery and left the battery on charge, reconnecting it last night, recodeing (eka) and then tried to start it, as before it started only on tickover then cut out, so i don't know yet what the charging voltage is and i don't have a meter either. I'll see if i can borrow one. This is so annoying as i always wanted a p38 after i had a classic for a few years, got this one last year and this problem came along after i changed the battery. Is your location anywhere near mine? Bryn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beretta Posted October 9, 2010 Author Share Posted October 9, 2010 Hi everybody Just to update this non start/running problem! Battery is fully charged, been on charge for a few days, reconnected battery done the EKA code so many times now to no avail, the engine will imediately start up just above tickover then cuts out- it will not rev at all. took off the antenna wire on the receiver under the parcel shelf the last time it did this so that is not a problem, just replaced batteries in remote. if my memory serves me correct the alarm went off on it's own last time this occured, the remote then decided to work and unlock the vehicle which it didn't when the initial battery was changed resulting in this problem back in Feb it then started ok and has done for months until the battery went flat recently and is now doing this non running thing. I noticed today that the remote will lock up the vehicle but not lock it but will set the alarm ok. Any Ideas- it is really doing my head in. thanks again Bryn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Sparkes Posted October 9, 2010 Share Posted October 9, 2010 If the engine is starting then there is no problem with the remote, or the alarm, or the security system. Put that another way, if there is a security fault it doesn't affect the engine running, just stops you from starting it. You could have two faults. I don't know a great deal about the V8, but obviously the electronics need a decent voltage. If the battery is fully charged then even if the alternator isn't giving any output the voltage should hold up for long enough for the engine to run properly. I can't recall what effect a faulty Mass Air Flow sensor has, but try disconnecting the cable to that sensor. I'd expect the engine to use default values. It may not run well, but better than you describe. There are also sensors for the crankshaft and camshaft positions. Serious faults with those will possibly stop the engine running at all, but again I'm not certain about the petrol engine. You need to download the RAVE manuals and read the section on the engine electronic system, especially what happens if a sensor fails. Some revert to default values, some stop the engine running (starting). CD2 on this page http://tinyurl.com/jx6cu, you need to know how to create a CD from the image file you will download. If you don't know I expect most teenage games players will do it for you. Corrosion of any electrical connector can also be a problem. Check the carpet in the drivers footwell, if it's damp through leaking coolant (from the heater connections) or from Air Conditioning condensate (due to blocked drain tubes) you need to lift the carpet and check the state of the wiring underneath there, look for distorted insulation on individual wires which reveals corrosion of the wire core. Also look for corroded connections in the bottom of the A pillar, remove the trim panel forward of the door, to the right of your feet. Also check the connectors on the BECM. Before you start, lift the seat to it's highest level. You may also want to motor the seat backwards and forwards to help with access. You don't have to disconnect the battery, although it does no harm except make it difficult to move the seat, then pull off each connector in turn and look closely (use a small torch) and the pins and sockets in each connector. That should keep you quiet for the weekend :-) HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paintman Posted October 9, 2010 Share Posted October 9, 2010 What fault codes are showing on a diagnostic check? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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