oldreekie Posted October 16, 2010 Share Posted October 16, 2010 Finally got round to changing my discs and pads on my 110 td5. I wish I had never started Drivers side, Drive flange seriously worn,lots of free play before anything in the axle moves .I misplaced my brake pipe spanner and sheared the brake pipe while trying to get the caliper off. Everything else went well just need a new pipe made then bleed and good to go ! Passenger side Drive flange siezed solid / welded with rust to the drive shaft.Eventually stripped hub off at axle shearing a bolt in the axle in the process. Been grinding away a little at a time to try and get the drive flange off without damaging the drive shaft. Do you think I should cut my losses and grind the lot off getting a new CV and rebuilding the hub. Wish I had never started. I do love my landy but I haven't put a spanner on it other than routing servicing in 3 years Please advise your thoughts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffR Posted October 17, 2010 Share Posted October 17, 2010 Join the club mate - changing disc on V8 110 today only to find that everything was seized f*****g solid and/or glued down with silicone. And to top it all the swivel ball is comprehensively cattle trucked Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimmy Two-Jacks Posted October 17, 2010 Share Posted October 17, 2010 Join the club mate - changing disc on V8 110 today only to find that everything was seized f*****g solid and/or glued down with silicone. And to top it all the swivel ball is comprehensively cattle trucked God Bless Land Rovers eh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted October 17, 2010 Share Posted October 17, 2010 The solution to this is to have an excuse to take the hubs apart a couple of times a year, this way it never seizes up as it's apart so frequently I would do everything I could to avoid totalling a CV that may well be okay (they're not cheap). Possibly take the whole swivel housing off the ball, and pull the CV out from the back? (Remove the circlip/shims first...). Kinda fiddly with the hub/disc on there, but if it saves you the cost of a CV it may be worth it! Although you may have more purchase of prying the drive flange off with the bits still on the car, rather than on a bench/the floor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Briarston Posted October 17, 2010 Share Posted October 17, 2010 If you have already got the grinder to it could you cut some "shoulders" to allow a puller to locate? The centre bolt of the puller would work against the end of the cv. shaft. Try giving it a good soaking in proper penetrating oil first, and perhaps a bit of heat when you have some pressure on it. Might be worth a try, you still have the "butcher it" option if it doesn't! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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